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Trans crossmember is complete. Very beefy. Started to make a tunnel patch also.

Never mind. I forget there’s directions for this kinda stuff .. lol they even circled it for me!

Push rod is installed and it’s not totally going in a straight shot. It has a little miss alignment where silver sport has their hole. Now if I move it up to the stud it’s very straight.. The hole that is provided is giving me a 3.5:1 pedal ratio.. if I move it up to where it’s happy it’s 6:1...

Craaapp I may make a corking tool and use the aluminum part as a guide. Thanks for the picture

Has anybody had to pop a hole in their strut tower of master cylinder clearance?? I don’t want to cut another hole in my car! Feel like captain jack sparrow, quit blowing holes in my ship!!

That’s where it’s going to sit. No speedo, my cluster makes a chatter noise so I’m taking it out.

I had a chance to model up a trans crossmember. Took a photo of underneath the car and scaled it into fusion 360. Initial model came out well after 3d printing the bracket. A few tweaks and some gussets and we will have a crossmember

Bolted right up. Holley sells right flexplate. I made my own motor mounts. Used tti measurements to mount engine

Probably not, the old 904 was in the stock location and I just bolted the hemi to it. Crank centerline may be higher but the transmission mount stayed the same. Engine is sitting at about 2.5 down.

Got the trans up in there. I’m kinda pissed I had to cut so much but it is what it is.. Lots of test fitting and wondering haha. Have to make sure the angle of the engine stays the same with headers on it ect.. tail shaft is closer than I like to the tunnel. Have to test fit old drive shaft. I...

I’m hoping the run out will check out I don’t want to take those damn dowels out again.. I figured the starter support won’t hurt. It looked fine spinning it with the plugs out but with almost 12:1 compression it’s a different story.

got everything in place. Ready to dial it in. Had to put longer dowels in. Welded in a starter snout support also. Drilled and tapped the top starter hole 1/2-20 kinda like factory. Also got a real fuel pump! Ordered up Hemi Denny torsion bar eliminator also

Fixed

I’ll be putting fly wheel in and bumping the motor over before to verify. I have Ram clutch and pressure plate and fly wheel. Liberty gears helped me out with all of it

Okay. So I’ve decided to keep with the QuickTime bell housing.. First was the starter issue. I have a Dakota starter and it was working perfectly with the 904. I did have to grind the block which was fine. Now because of the larger diameter ring for flywheel I believe they moved the starter down...

Update.. I’m debating on getting a cast bell housing.. I’m not sure if I like the idea of not having a starter snout support along with both starter bolts being almost half inch .469 for 7/16 bolts.. very expensive bell for that bs.. I really need a sfi approved one though.. The starter pocket...

Man that sucks. Well I’m questioning this bell all I’ve heard it bad news with the starter not living

130 tooth not sure what the actual measurement is.

Gen 3 hemi to tkx. I have a quick time bell RM6071 and having trouble with starter. What bell housing are you guys using? Thanks

I measured last night both 7/16 in size. Top is stud, bottom is bolt. Bottom hole on new bell is okay ish.. top is not going to fly. Going to drill and tap for 1/2-20 stud in bell and lock backside with nut. Then make a ID sleeve for starter.

Installing a quick time bell for small block/ tkx. It’s actually gen 3 hemi but same pattern. My question is about the starter… I have Dakota high torque stater. Bottom bolt I can use stock 5/8 bolt with nut but the top is the one in question. They give you a ID spacer for starter but everything...

Stock length A body 8-3/4. 323 sure grip. 741 case. Moser aftermarket axles. 5x4.5 bolt pattern. 56-1/2 wheel flange to wheel flange. Comes with forged steel yoke with straps. No brakes or lines. 1,500$ or best located in Michigan will not ship. Pick up only.

Have to dig out slip. 60’ was terrible. Converter is not correct. You can hear in between shift point the rpm drops down way to far. Data says same. I had an Ls swapped mustang that went 10.80’s and the Dart felt the same if not faster. I was pissed I didn’t see 10’s on the slip.

Thank you!!

Bore had to be cleaned up with a hone I think it’s 4.10 bore but that’s nothing. Yes custom cam high comp pistons almost 12:1 on e85 stock crank

I don’t have you tube account unfortunately but it went 11.51 letting out at about 1,000 ft. Cut off was 11.50 no cage. Got it pretty spot on haha. Good photo of that pass

It’s on its last leg.. it was only a matter of time until it gave up. Surprisingly though it lasted a lot longer with 500 hp to tire than I thought. It’s got a valve body and nice clutch pack. I did a drag week with it and by the end the fluid was pretty bad and had some steel material in...

No i believe a manual box for any A body 67 and up

Yes I did a manual box.

Don’t have any pics but it’s custom. I spun up some delrin plastic for a bushing to replace factory one. Then another collar with a set screw to keep shaft in place. Steering dog bone and idler needed to be changed to 73 and up stuff to clear pan better.