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So what’s the preferred way to get the core plug in the counter shaft hole on the 833OD? I have the seal kit from Brewers and that plug is pretty thick and convex… it currently fits into the hole with no interference. I assume it’s meant to be “flattened” into place snug but it seems like...

So I think I’m going to pull it apart to put in the new reverse shaft O-ring. I’d hate myself if I do the whole job and that 1 O-ring leaks. I‘ve done 2 other 833’s before successfully. I have 2 questions though… Being the input shaft comes out forward with the OD’s big front retainer does...

3 pictures as it rotates. The white grease goo is everywhere.

I’ll get a better picture and post it…

So I just picked up an A body overdrive. It was crazy cheap from a guy who was clearing out a basement full of parts that have been sitting for at least 15 years. (Possibly an older family members prior stash) It’s 26 output spline, A tail-housing, it has a shifter mounting plate on it, has a...

Just wondering if anyone has 1st hand experience with my question. I have a 1966 Dart that I am planning to install a set of duel Accurate LTD tailpipes on. Specifically the 2.25" with turn-downs (the ones that are 2.25 the whole way) I know that I should order the 1967 specific RH side...

I usually don’t chime in on these debates and I don’t claim to be anything more then a shade-tree DIY’er. I haven’t seen anyone use this analogy (that I described below) to explain why reversing the pistons could add ‘something’ to the motor. This analogy is exaggerated, but it makes it easier...

66 Dart. Currently I have a slant with a later model over-drive bell housing (5.125 register) and 833 that is running/ driving fine. I’m considering eventually swapping in a small-block. I have 2 specific questions: 1) If I use the later model small block over-drive bell (casting # 3743859)...

Sorry for being so late to the party in this thread, the fall was very busy for me and I was rarely logged in. The blue Dart and video are mine. I was/am very disappointed in that “Whiplash” cam. I called their tech line and asked about it... saying I just wanted to maybe sound like it’s a 273...

Thank you for the excellent, detailed response. Overall I’m happy enough with the results. On a positive note the car did not lose any drivability and with the 3.55’s and 833 it’s a very fun car to zip around in. I’m sure most of us have chosen “too much cam” at some point in the past...

Correct, it’s was 105° dot to dot. That is why I then moved the crank keyway to +2° and buttoned it up... so it’s installed at 103° And yes, I was also expecting more lump.

Here is the result. It degreed in at 105° dot to dot. Their sheet said if it’s an option to prefer 1° more advance then 1° less... so I used the 2° advance key way and closed it up. It’s stock bore and I used an NOS .020 steel shim on assembly. I did the exhaust manifold mod and die-ground...

Thanks for all the replies. I guess, to me, with the above being true they “should” have the cam card say: Lobe separation 109° Installs at 104° In my opinion that would be clearer... Thanks again.

I’ll pre-game my question by saying yes, I know how to and that I should degree all camshafts. I also have the tools required to do that. I’m just looking for an explanation as to how Hughes specs their cams and how they write their cam cards. I contacted their tech line and was giving a...

My 66 is a Slant/4gear. I know that combo wasn’t offered in 66 but it makes it fun to drive and it draws crowds at cruises. I put 3.55’s in it and the dual-pot... I would actually call it “zippy”.

Thanks! Spoke to Al and he hooked me up

Looking for an NOS one. Please include the part number of what you have. Only interested if we can do transaction via PayPal and you have the ability to safely package it for shipping. Shipping would be to zip 15209, please figure out a total price including what you need for the PayPal fees...

Title say it all... has anyone tried one yet for the Slant? Just wondering what it sounds like at idle? I’m not worried about overall performance, just wondering if it had a nice lump it...

The short version is: If you want to draw a huge crowd at a cruise (well, huge for a /6 car at least) put one of these on. Grabbed this up off eBay earlier in the summer. This one was NOS from 1961 or 1962... the linkage package was still sealed and the very delicate old and browned paper...

Thanks! It’s E code

14x5.5” 205/75 front and 225/70 rear The common Hubcaps.

I said Hi over on the welcome wagon some weeks back, I was recommend to check in here with the other 66-er’s. This is my 66 post. I’ve always done amateur resto’s myself on all my prior cars but when this one came along at a very fair price I picked it up. It has a beautiful paint job and very...

Other then the 2 part numbers on the boxes shown in my pic, I bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PLATINUM-TORQUE-3-55-RING-AND-PINION-GEARSET-FITS-DODGE-CHRYSLER-7-25-inch/261641412481?fits=Make:Dodge&hash=item3ceb0b1f81:g:Ei0AAOSwNF5eXUjt This was a genuine Motive R&P set in the original...

I always like to post a result in case it helps anyone else in the future. To review, I have a 7.25” with the 9 bolt irregular shaped cover that is original to a 1966 A body. I purchased a Motive brand 3.55 gear set that they spec for 1963 and up A body. The first pic shows the difference in...

Here’s where I am so far: The ring gear bolted right on the case. I pulled the used pinion bearing and it pressed right onto the new pinion. The yoke fits the new pinion an the pinion seal. The only difference is the shoulder on the pinion for the shims/ crush collar. I emailed and heard...

I have a 66 Dart with an orginal open 7.25" 2.93 axle. I purchased a 3.55 Motive brand ring and pinion set that they spec for 63-up Dart. There are 2 problems: 1) The pinion nut/threaded end is bigger on the new pinion (needs a bigger nut) 2) The pinion appears to be a crush sleeve style, not...

Thanks for all the welcomes. I think she is staying a slant... no one give the slants any love.

Well I got it “fixed”... Here is what I did and what worked and what didn’t work. I got a different fork from Brewers, one what is for a standard non-overdrive unit. That fork snapped right in and set much farther forward in the window. I though I had it licked. I set everything back up...

What you just said here about the bigger flywheel and thus bigger Bell set off a whole cascade of thoughts. I’m the 3rd owner of this car in the past 10 years that has been trying to solve this clutch issue. I just had an ah-ha! moment. All along we had been trying to retro-fit the OD 833 to...