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Yes, I never swapped the cam. I probably will in the future

I love cool stories like this.

I’m much happier with my car now. It behaves more like I was initially hoping for.

It’s been a while since an update, I pulled the engine out of the car to inspect the engine after my failure in LA. Turns out a bolt fell into the intake and was holding the #7 intake valve open. The valve and seat was chewed up, so I got a used set of J heads and swapped the bad head out. While...

Both Richard Holdner and Steve Dulcich praise this particular camshaft, and I trust their opinions. Now I'm undecided as to my LSA, if I should just go with the 110 or if I should have one ground at 107. My build is just supposed to be a hot rod/street machine, not a full racecar.

Boy, I feel silly now, my current cam has an LSA or 114. No wonder it's such a dog!

By my calculations I should go with a 106 or 107 LSA cam, depending on the size of my valves. 367/8=45.875/2.02=22.71x.91=20.6-128=107.3 My CR is 9.6:1 currently, but will go up if I mill the heads a bit.

I'm going to go through the whole engine just to make sure everything else is ok. I am very hands on with my build, I've done probably 95% of the work by myself. Unfortunately, I don't really have access to an expert outside of the internet or the books/magazines/videos I see. The internet and...

Welp, my lack of power is not an issue anymore. The intake valve on cylinder 7 got stuck halfway down, the piston hit the valve and bent it. So the engine is going to come apart so I can make sure everything inside is alright. My plans for the engine are a full tear down, install a Comp XE268H...

Another update on Cylinder 7, I let the cylinder soak with Marvel Mystery Oil for a few days then gave it an Italian Tune-up and the compression came back in that cylinder. I checked the compression again and it was up to 130. So that's one problem solved.

Quick update on #7, I poured a lil ATF in the cylinder and it brought my compression up to 160. So there is a good chance my rings are worn.

Alright this took a minute but I did some work on the car. I bought the FBO plate and set it at 16 with initial at 18 for a total of 34, I put in heavier springs to hold the timing back, it came in way too early. I can’t run the vacuum advance because it sends my timing thru the roof and it...

So I put the chrysler distributor together and set initial at 16-17 degrees. Total mechanical advance is about 35-37. Now when I attach the vacuum canister and rev it up, it goes past 40 degrees and starts detonating. So my vacuum and mechanical advance systems need work. I made a few laps...

I went ahead and took apart 4 distributors including the one on the car. Current dist has the gold weights, other one has bigger weights with the long spring. I figure the other distributor would be more of what I’m looking for. I also got 4 vacuum canisters, 2 are adjustable with 11R on the...

Who doesn’t love government mandated safety standards.

I’ve been away camping for a few days, but I made a list! Even on vacation I think about cars. I’ll be getting to work on this once I’m home.

I'm running 225/60/15 tires up front and there is decent ground clearance under the k frame.

Wow, that video has great information, I wish I had watched it before I dropped my 360 in the car. I don't like the manifolds, but they fit and I had them. I will upgrade to headers, most likely a set of Doug's since they look like they fit decent with power steering. The power steering box and...

I did break in the cam on the first start. I'll report back with compression numbers.

My transmission seems to shift fine, I could reset the kick down cable.

9.6:1

I haven't, should I do that with this being a fresh rebuild? It probably has 65 miles on it.

Yeah, I did the dot to dot when I put the engine together. Kinda wishing I had degreed the cam.

I'm using Champion sparkplugs, I believe I gapped them 0.035. Last time I looked they seemed to be burning normally, the porcelain was a dirty tan color. No real bogs or hesitations when driving, though the car is a little finicky when cold but that's normal right? I have 89 octane in the tank...

The parking brake works fine, I don't think it is brake drag but I will go back and check my brakes again.

I'm a fan of the Engine Masters show, having a good tune is important for making power and optimizing an engine. I'm a novice at tuning but I'm doing my best to learn how to become better.

I believe I misspoke, I have a voltage gauge on its own circuit, it's not wired into the ammeter circuit. The ammeter is just bypassed, the plastic face was all melted and foggy. And I have read that the ammeter is a potential fire hazard so I opted to neutralize it for the time being. I will...

The timing definitely needs more work, I am a novice at tuning so it's a safe bet that it needs a solid tune-up. I just started driving my car again after about 10 months of work, so I'm not looking to tear apart my motor just yet or throw parts at it. Like you said, I need to optimize what I...

My battery is brand new and sits a 12.4 volts, when idling the alternator puts out 13+ volts, and when revving it gets up to 14+ volts. I'll run a resistance check on my resistor. Unfortunately, the ammeter is bypassed so I just have a voltage gauge, it was getting concerningly hot.

I agree with you on the ballast resistor, but volts at the coil are 3-4 with the resistor, 7-8 when bypassed. Now I tried to set everything up as close to stock as I could, but maybe I missed something. I looked at your pictures in that other post, I had those same springs in my distributor. I...