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    [SOLD] 1967 Barracuda 383 4 speed Formula S

    1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 383 4 Speed This is an original 383 4 Speed Formula S car. Date correct (numbers matching) engine, transmission and 3.23 sure grip rear end. The motor, transmission, steering, suspension and electrical are all rebuilt or new. I have pictures and receipts...
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    I mean it's the same number of parts using the same method of installation. And my bearings didn't fail. Some *** hat before me demolished the end play adjuster. So the bearings had to come off.
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    Well of course I have non-factory parts. But they all either provide some sort of a benefit or there was no other option for replacement. My point is, from what I've read on the forums and articles, the case of which style of bearing to use was a wash.
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    For what it's worth, I went with the Dr. Diff flavor of the OE style bearings. I appreciate everyone's input. Didn't want to start another Green vs tapered thread/argument, just wanted input on Dr Diff vs Yukon for brand of kit for tapered. I believe both Green and OE tapered have pros and...
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    Boom! This is the type of input I'm looking for.
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    I don't think there's a problem with them. Based on my research anyways. I don't have any practical experience and I'm sure they'd be fine. Just want OE.
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    $42,359.86 and it's yours. Not that I'm keeping track or anything ha ha!
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    Thanks RRR. I mean, some PB blaster and a bit of heat probably would have fixed the adjuster. But what do I know. I'm under the impression that both have the Timken bearings so that's a wash. Billet anything is hit or miss. I'm leaning towards spending the extra $130 (price difference plus...
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    NOT another "Green" bearings post

    So just when I thought I was done with this damn Barracuda ('67 383, 4 Speed, Formula S for those that require such info), the last mechanical piece of the car I have not touched has decided to stomp it's feet and throw a tantrum like my 4 year old. Took it for a test drive and watched the fuel...
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    Reset the pin holding the bushing in then used a washer on the fender pivot. I've now got an 1/8th inch of clearance between the header and down arm. Connecting rods are still perpendicular. Pretty close to 90 degrees eyeballing it. Thanks all for the help!
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    A lot of outstanding info here. I did replace the mounts with the Mancini flavor that have the locking plates in the rubber and also stand up taller. That plus a shim on the mounts for header clearance would explain the change in distance. My dumbass moment for this issue forgetting basic...
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    It is just a pivot on a threaded stud. There's also the backing welded to the fender on the tire side. I think with the clip reset and maybe a shim or two, I should be good to go.
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    The pivot hardware is brewers and the z-bar is TTI.
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    It's the one from the Brewers big block kit. Can you tell me what I should have?
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    Yup, straight arm to the pedal, bent arm to the fork.
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    I'm guessing that's my next move!
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    The stock bracket on the transmission stuck out much furth than the kit. I'm wonder if there was supposed to be something on the inside of the fender apron?
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    No it's still on but the arm is hitting the #1 header tube and scraping the coating.
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    Thanks! That's how I have it installed. Edit: if I push it hard towards the fender, allowing me to secure the fender pivot., the z-bar arm that connects to the fork hits the header.
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    Z-bar too narrow?

    Here's a head scratcher. To me anyways. Specs: 1967 Barracuda Formula S, factory 383 4-speed. Situation: Recently put the 'original' motor and transmission back in after rebuild. Measured everything to make sure the motor is back in it's original spot. It still has the 915 heads on it...
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    Electric choke issue

    It's not. Dedicated choke is on a 'run' circuit on the new fuse block. I found the issue though. Open door circuit when trying to hook up the battery caused the sparks. Just waiting on a radiator and should be able to finally fire it up.
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    Electric choke issue

    Yeah me either. New harness has dedicated line for the choke.
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    Electric choke issue

    Oh definitely! I have ground straps all over the place now with this new wiring kit. Battery to block, block to firewall, core support to harness, you name it.
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    Electric choke issue

    Well, turns out the continuity test was a red haring. I had one of the door light switches put which was causing the sparks when trying to connect the battery. Quick call to American Autowire after testing some other leads narrowed it down to the fused circuit for the interior lights. Learning...
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    Electric choke issue

    Understood. I have some extra light bulbs a socket and wires ready to go for this weekends testing. Just to clarify, should I be checking keyed or unkeyed circuits since the problem "goes away" when I disconnect the keyed choke hot wire? Also, any reason that the choke issue would cause the...
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    Electric choke issue

    Ok so I'll try and respond to all, apologies if I miss anyone. The choke is wired up to a 10 amp keyed circuit that American specifically lists for this purpose. When the key is off, 0 Volts, when key is in run position, 12.25 volts. I believe the choke cap is fried internally. It only has 5...
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    Electric choke issue

    Good evening gurus, Sorry in advance for the long post, but I'm working on an issue that's almost a year in the making. I've ran into a bit of an electrical issue and I believe it's narrowed down but could use some input. First off, lots of electrical changes. 1967 Barracuda 383 4speed. Now...
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    Missing ID stamp

    Yeah, I was just more curious. At least it provides more info on what’s been done to this motor with out having to tear it down.
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    Missing ID stamp

    Thank you! I’ll be checking the intake area when I swap distributors this winter.
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    Missing ID stamp

    Yeah that’s what I’m seeing/reading. I went looking for mine but may have confirmed the block has been decked instead!
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