Search results for query: *

I was told by the previous owner it was a 74, never second guessed it. Just decoded the VIN and I think it's actually a 73 model. Though that doesn't seem like a huge age difference to have a different column. The shift/lock/turn indicator housing matches the rest the color the car used to be...

That's a good point, it seemed alligned just fine when hooked up to the gear box. My only "concern" is the fact that no seal there means the inside of the shift tube is basically open to the elements from below. Then again, I don't see myself driving this car in all-weather conditions, that's...

That's what I figured, do you know where I can get exact parts? I tried searching for them by just googling as well as looking on classic industries, but to no avail.

I've dismantled the standard column from my 74 duster and I think there might be some missing parts. My repair manual and most other online info has told me there should be a lower bearing, which I don't have. Here I have loosely reassembled the steering shaft, shift tube, and outer unnamed...

I was looking online for a coupler rebuild kit and found one on Autozone's website. The photo represented what looks like the right parts but their automatic compatibility filter said otherwise. Are there different styles in A-bodies? I'd imagine it's a pretty universal part.

After some fiddling, the battery charges now. Directly ran some wires from the field terminals to the battery, proved the alternator is ok, had an output of 16 volts. In the end, deciding to replace the VR seemed to fix it right up :rolleyes:. My stubborn mentality refused to believe the thing...

Unfortunately, as I said once before, the ammeter is corroded to pieces, needle is not going to stay in place. The two wires that connected to the ammeter are currently spliced together, and have been since I had my hands on the Duster. The reason I believe there to be an issue is because I...

While I can't say for certain, I am confident the alternator itself isn't the problem. This being my third alternator during this whole debacle, I don't have too much reason to think the alternator itself is acting up, especially considering that I had the thing tested last year and it was given...

Alright, here we go again. I've had this problem for a while, and it's really been messing with my head the whole time. I asked about it in this other thread about a year ago now, where 67dart and Mattax tried their best to help, but unfortunately to no avail. I recently got inspired to tackle...

Did this end up working out for you? I've about lost my patience fumbling with an offset wrench and I was going to try fabricating a proper wrench, since I can't seem to find one available anywhere online. If you followed through with making your own, what did you use for the 7/16 box end? My...

The larger of the two harnesses on the back of the climate controls (heat, cool, defrost, etc.), not the harness that controls fan speed. Alright, I'll get to that when I can. Out of curiosity, do you guys have a preference in brand and condition of alternator? By condition I mean new vs re...

After doing this I still had no luck. I also used the warranty and got the alternator replaced, still no luck even after doing the same field jump test. At this point I'm contemplating just doing a full overhaul of the charching circuit.

Ok guys, I've done a little fiddling with the wires the past few days and have come to this hypothesis: the alternator field is not getting enough power because of a voltage drop somewhere in the cabin, showing almost a volt drop at the field terminal. The ignition switch is getting full power...

Well, the ammeter on this car is long gone, it was in pieces by the time I got the car and the previous owner spliced the two wires together. I'll have to follow the circuit at some point and look for any corrosion. Both locations show under 13v, though I think I saw over half a volt more when...

I can confirm the blue field wire is getting voltage, albeit around a volt less than the battery itself, not sure if that is important. So, I jumped a wire from the other FLD terminal directly to the negative battery post, started the engine up and low and behold, still no charge... (Reads...

What is the purpose of the two fields? Does it matter which wire is connected to which field connection on the alternator? I'm having a similar issue to big red with my 74 Duster (square back alternator) , no charge at the battery with a fairly new alternator. Even got it tested by an auto parts...

I'm very sorry if my reply offended you in any way, it was not at all my intention to to attack or question your experience. All I can say is in my case, I was not able to slide an extension between the two manifolds because of both the choke housing and the intake/exhaust connection getting in...

You would think so, but that just wasn't the case. The added metal from the auto-choke mount made it practically impossible to get any extension to reach the nut at a workable angle. I didn't have a universal joint attachment either, and I doubt that would've worked either. I did manage to get...

Got close to removing the intake manifold off today on my slant 6, but I was stopped be one rusty nut in the most inconvenient location, basically hiding behind the exhaust manifold where the auto choke sits. This photo should give you an idea. I cant see any way of reaching this nut with a...

So I removed the valve cover today, didn't see any thing immediately. The valve seals seem to be intact but I don't know how old they are, could very well be hard as rock making them useless. The only thing out of the ordinary was that cylinder 2 had a seal that was seemingly lower than all of...

I assume checking valve seals and stem seals requires me taking the engine apart...

That would indicate bad head gasket right?

This is a recent occurrence, just started a couple start-ups ago. I'm pretty sure it's burning oil but could be wrong. The exhaust is near invisible at first, as normal, but will start getting REAL smokey within 30 seconds of running. I think it's burning oil because I changed the oil last month...

Update: ended up just removing the whole bracket for easier access. Wasn't too hard of a removal, just a few bolts and maneuvers around the steering column. Not sure who doable it is with a clutch pedal in the way... The hinge was very full of crud, this was after drowning it in PB blaster and...

Do you guys have suggestions on how exactly to pull out the pin? All I've tried so far is clamping channel locks to it and pulled, didn't work. I doused the hinge with pb blaster around 40 minutes ago, so that should help.

Is there an easy way to replace that bearing? I can see a couple bolts that look like they're holding the hinge in place, though I've heard removing the pedal is a big ordeal. If spraying it with some wd40 would fix it (at least temporarily) that would be good too.

In good working condition and NOT attached to the push rod, how freely should the pedal be able to swing? With the push rod not attached on my 74 duster the pedal isnt seized, but I have to put <~5 pounds pressure on the pedal to move it either direction.

What if the cable is brand new and it still bounces and clicks? Is it more likely that the manufacturers didn't put enough lube on the cable or that the speedo itself is failing? (Asking for 74 duster, auto trans)

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind.

Are you saying that I technically can use the current distribution block as long as I integrate the proportioning valve?