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I love watching that car launch. Congrats

Our '74 Duster came with a 904 transmission and a 2.45 (that's right) 8 1/4 single side rear end. I couldn't imagine matching the low comp teen with those highway gears but that was the set up and it ran surprisingly well. She now has 3.90s and a sure grip in the 8 1/4. Someday I will find out...

keep up the posts Bobby! I would still really like to hear the combo running with a little better sound quality..Maybe several feet away. thxs

I didn't realize that what was under the dash was called a "vaporator" I thought it was the condenser. I have never heard of a vaporator. I think I have heard of an evaporator. In any case it is aluminum but does weight 5 or so pounds. Yes the aluminum lines coming through the firewall go to...

We just pulled all the a/c stuff from under the dash of our '74 Duster but we pulled the heater core and hoses also since we are in Fl. There was some weight to be saved under the dash between the heater core and the condenser. We decided to put the empty boxes back under the dash to make sure...

Wow Dartman, that is a hard offer to beat.. Sent a PM

I posted a similar post in the suspension forum and thought that maybe the race forum could give me a little more practical opinions. In pulling the old exhaust we nicked a torsion bar with the cut off wheel so we need to replace it. The car is a 74 Duster with a 318 that we are building to get...

thanks folks. Which ones are the 810s? Will they be too bouncy for street driving? Are they the same as the /6 set? What will I gain/lose from just staying with the stock size that came with the car? I need a little more input on sizes and effects of each before I make a decision on which ones...

I would just love to hear a clip of it running at idle. Can't wait for a full clip.

Well, when we were taking the motor out several weeks ago we had to cut the drivers side exhaust because the manifold to exhaust bolts were frozen. Of course my nephew hit the torsion bar with the cut off wheel. (murphys law you know). I just saw the nick while he was scraping the undercarriage...

I agree.....follow what BJR suggests...

For what it's worth the 302 closed chamber heads I just had cc'ed came out at 59cc. I think there is a pretty large variance in the head volumes. Make sure to check yours and compare it to what you have on there now. Between that and checking the depth of your pistons in the hole you can decide...

Thanks again Terry, I will give him a call when it gets opening time over on the west coast. I figured 68 was trying to make a funny but you never know so I wasted time searching.

68, is that a real suggestion or just a smart a$$ repsonse thinking you are funny? :thebirdm: I found no such tool on google. I was asking for real help like Terry provided.

Those times are one Smokin' 318 there Bobby! Your posts keep me focused on getting the teen built when I start to wander on other options. I can't wait to see the results and video.

Terry, Thanks for the offer! I may have to take you up on it. I have emailed them already with no respone. I would really like to just buy one if anybody else knows where to find one. Where did you get yours if you recall? thanks again. Skip

I am getting ready to go at the 302 casting heads with the old grinder after having practiced for about 8 hours on my original '74 318 heads. I keep reading about how the 302 heads have less material around the pushrod and to be very careful. The articles I have read talk about using a Helgesen...

Mancini has adjustable snubbers for 8 1/4s

Thanks for the quick response everyone! Xstream, what sleeving are you talking about? The corrogated split stuff?

We have been cleaning up the engine compartment getting ready to have the car painted and just removed the 34 year old wiring. Much of the tape (?) wrapping the wires and harness is deteriorating and looks bad. What is the correct material to use to re-wrap the wires so they look good and stay...

You folks are great. The input and debate is always productive.

Cheif, most of the info about what I am considering is in the posts. The current stock motor info is really not relevant since I am building a new one. Anyway, I am considering 59cc 302 heads, .030 bore, comp 268H cam (.454/218@50), assume a .039 gasket as Rumble referenced. The stock pistons...

The information I was given is that with the KB 167s height by the time I square deck the head (maybe .020 to get there) I will likely have zero deck or even out of the hole and that with 59cc 302 heads I would be well over 10.5 to 1. The flat top late model 318 pistons have less compression...

I was planning on using KB167 pistons but with the 59cc heads and after square decking the motor it looks like I would be over 10.5 to 1. Based on that I think I will use the 89 318 pistons which have a taller compresion height than stock and are cast not hyperuetectic. I wanted to get over 10...

My best guess for what it is worth.....You've got a PM

The listing says it will clear the firewall and we always believe the advertisements right Adam? ha ha... Hopefully it fits well as they claim.

Please post your results! It would be nice to clean up some wiring.

Thanks for the replies. The cam is the Comp 268H .454 lift .218 @ .050. Rear gear is 3.90 and the converter will be what is prescribed by the converter manufacturer but I guess somewhere 2800 to maybe 3400. I don't mind always running 93 octane since the Vette, Mustang, Lexus and motorcycles all...

What is the maximum compression ratio that can be run with good 93 octane pump gas in an iron headed motor. I am building a 318 with 302 casting heads and want to get the highest compression ratio possible without getting too close to the ragged edge of detonation on good pump gas. The machine...

Just a quick question away... You pick the quickest to you. This is how I found what I needed for the port job on my heads. good luck...