Search results for query: *

This car ran 118 mph....... At 3800 lb, 3.15 diff, 318 Poly, 9:1 CR.......& a 2 bbl.

Hi stall c'ters generate a lot of heat, so you need a large fluid cooler. Fluid heat is the killer. It hardens the seals, which then cause clutch/band slippage.....& smell.

A more 'scientific' approach to plug heat range might be to use what the car maker spent hours on testing & researching. Then look at your engine & see what has been changed that might require a change, if any, in heat range; do not just fit colder plugs because Billy fitted colder plugs to his...

Um..... Give it Elon Musk for one of his Teslas...stop them catching fire

The problem with a colder plug to 'add some spark' is the risk that the plug is too cold to burn off the tip deposits in cruise/idle mode. It then misfires....right when you want max spark energy. The object is to bring the tip temp to over 400* C & keep it there, where it self cleans; max temp...

Dan, If you can find a TQ.......just run it. I could never work out why a 440 with a TQ [ #6410 ] had .125" sec jets but a #6454 used on a 360 had .143"sec jets. Jet size is NOT related to engine size. If you use a TQ on a 318, you may have to change jet sizes &/or met rods. What you will...

Demon, Why do you think you may need a colder plug? When you have the correct heat range, do you know what the lower & higher temp limits are for for reliable spark delivery? I can think of a couple of reasons to go hotter, not colder.

QJ is a spreadbore like the TQ. Same bolt pattern. You need to check fitment to the intake to make sure all the passages in the carb base are covered & that linkages do not foul etc....

650 AVS2 or TQ.

Can we clone post #62? It's Newbomb Turk's modus operandi: if the article/description fits his theory of the world, it is 100% true. If it doesn't, then the article is a joke. We know who the joke is......

Best way to lift a slant 6? With Hulk Hogan & three of his friends......

The problem I see with plug reading is that the plug can see a variation in operating conditions throughout the rpm range, especially on street cars that are drag raced. How long [ in seconds ] does it take to 'colour' a plug? What good is it if the colour is 'right' after a WOT run, but the...

6 psi.

Was it Winston Churchill who said....... 'Never in the field of human conquest have good braking systems been replaced with no so good braking systems....

Hagerty did a you tube on adding headers to a 440, not that long ago. Mild Comp XE Cam, factory intake, factory TQ carb. I do not remember the exact amount of the HP increase, but it was substantial, with a big increase at lower rpms, good for the street.

I stopped reading at H....

This ^^^^. To help keep the epoxy in place, drill a couple of small holes at different angles next to the plug. heat. Warm the carb base & THEN apply the epoxy. It will flow into the holes & lock the epoxy insert in place.

Check out the friction coefficient of the brake pads. If you have 'race' type pads, they might not bite until they get really hot. Not good for street use.

2.76 axle, mild cam, the 650 AVS2 will be perfect. Congrats on not falling for bigger is better...

Turk, After reading your post #68, I have to admit I got it wrong in post #67. You are not just dumb, you are really dumb... Not only dumb, but cannot read either....... Not that it is any of your business, but I am on more Chrys forums than GM forums. Might be hard for you to...

Perfect. I would re-use them.

Agree that cam will be a dog in a 318, so I hope you like dogs...... A much more streetable cam would be the Isky 270 Mega

If the gaskets are the thin shim steel type, the 'Marine' gaskets might be s/stainless steel to reduce corrosion. I know Mancini used to sell s/s gaskets for the BB because I bought some.

Yes, master. Your bullshit has been noted. If I posted my results, you would claim they are unsubstantiated...& where is the proof. So I post results from respected people, known to thousands..... Where is YOUR proof that HEI is not better than a Chrys ECU??????????????? You are just so...

There is no real braking action [ enough pressure applied to start retardation ] until all four shoes/disc pads come up against resistance. It is not just the rear brake shoes.

Some want to tell that switching to a Platinum or specialty plug......or increasing the plug gap is worth nothing... Ding Dong...

With a magnetic trigger, the spark retards at higher rpms due to distortion of the flux wave created by the trigger.

Phil Jacobs, founder of Jacobs ign systems, wrote a very good book called Performance Ign Systems. I have not used his systems, but those that have generally have positive comments such as better mileage & power. The Chrys ign system did not fare well in his ign comparison, especially compared...

If your engine likes 20* initial, leave it there. It is telling you something. Low comp engines need more timing, all else being equal. You have two options: reduce the total. Taking 2-4* may cure the detonation...& not hurt the top end. Other option is slow the centri adv curve.

The purpose of the ribbing is to lengthen the distance from the plug terminal to the metal body. If there are conductive contaminants of the surface of the porcelain, the spark can short out [ path of least resistance ]. Making this distance longer reduces the chances of this happening.....