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I've been trying to search the 67 pan swap, but haven't found a detailed thread. I wish I could cut the floor out of the 72 Polara the engine and trans came from, but the car was hit hard and I believe its long gone. But yes, mating a different floor to the firewall was my biggest fear.

I'm getting back to the Cuda project and need to find a solution for full floor pan replacement in my 66. I will be running a 360/727. I may have enough original floor sections to mostly piece together a "stock" floor. But will a 67 A body floor weld in? Will a B body or C body or E body floor...

Finally made it into the barn!

Maybe in the next year or two I can make it... This is a bucket list event for me and one of the reasons for my build. Only been to the track once in 2008. That is a nice facility. Nice little town too.

Coolest old tire I ever saw was an old drag tire on a 66 Mustang fastback sitting in an old barn. The tread was little checkered flags. Really unique. Too bad some of these odd ball tires aren't re-popped. Coker and such do good, but their are some pretty trick old tires that will never be again.

Of course, I could settle for 14x7s in the rear and 14x5s in the front. I have had better luck sourcing that size from Fords. And I have tires that fit 14s already. Mustangs used a wide variety of 14 inch rims from 1964 to 1973 with the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I will have to get out the tape measure...

My plan was to run 15x7s in the rear and 15x6 or narrower in the front with factory steel wheels to stay within budget and keep the junkyard build going. The thought would be to have the widest rear tire without tubbing the wheel wells and a skinny tire in the front to save weight. If I could...

So, I might need to measure what I have. I have 4 wheels and tires from a 72 Polara. I would need to dismount one to measure. I may be looking for a 7 inch wide rim for the rear then if the Polara rims are narrow. Assume nothing and question everything right?

I am looking for two 15 inch rims between 5 and 6 inches wide with a 5 x 4.5 lug pattern. I feel like these should exist, but having a hard time finding what they came on, be it an A, B, C, or E body rim. I have a feeling it would be an early B or C body rim, but not sure. I know a yard with...

And you should be able to see the spot welds on the flange rear of the quarter under the bumper. Never use filler here. It can hold moisture and cause premature rot and rust. Only Corvettes and kit cars lack spot welds on their flanges. Bondo used improperly hides bad metal work.

A quick thought. If he didn't have the bumper to fit the panel, he may have welded the patch panel in to far forward and tried to make the difference up with filler after he realized his mistake. He should have asked for the bumper anyway to check his own work. Hopefully he did not scew up the...

I am not a professional body guy by any means, but I did work at a body shop for 3 years after high school, and I repair my own hobby cars. There is no reason on this earth to have filler in that spot. Filler can be used to sharpen a body line, but only in small thin amounts. The area of concern...

Oh, OK. Then cut away. I was thinking you had 10 grand into a paint job and you were trying to save it. This just got a whole lot less scary. Yea, just take her down to metal in that spot and fit the bumper. See where she needs a nip tuck, and fixed. Just some time and a welder should do it. I...

Well, if the bumper is straight, then your only option is to grind off the paint and replace or reshape that area of the quarter. Maybe there is just some filler there. Hard to really tell until you get in there and poke around. As long as your guy can blend well, you shouldn't have to repaint...

Instead of grinding the bumper or reshaping the panel, could you just tweak the bumper a little? Is the bumper straight? I know on my cars, we have had to bend and tweak bumpers, fenders, doors, and so on to get the gaps right. We have even sent a straight bumper out for chrome and got it back...

I just checked out Dr.Diff for the first time. Looks like good stuff and good info. Thanks for the lead!

I had a similar question bouncing around my head. I have a 69' Cuda 8 3/4. I may upgrade the axles with ones from "John" at "Mopar Maddness" on "Ebay". They would be 5x4.5 to match the 73'-76' discs up front. I can get a cheap 8 1/4 out of a 72' Polara. Could I swap the Polara rear drums and...

Yea, still gona keep the Dart front end. I already invested in a grille & bezel set and the hood came from Texas. I favor the lines of the Dart. If I had a complete 66 Cuda front clip, I might consider it, but I think the Dart front clip will make this car stand out.

Yup. This rusty 64' is perfect for fixing the smashed roof. It's a game changer!

Picked up another parts car this week. Should make a good donor for the roof.

I asked to be schooled. And you sir schooled me. I try to explain what I want, and I find it's hard to get what I want. If that makes sense. I need to digest the info and look at data, but now I can understand what I'm looking at. Cams are witchcraft to me. This is one of the places I am stalled...

Honestly, I'm a little surprised. I'm not the first to have this combination and goal, yet there is no clear recipe for success. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the info, but there's a lot of info and a wide spectrum of opinion. The project is just becoming another pile of parts. No quick...

Hughes Whiplash, 223/236, .506/.515, RPM?, LSA 107, ICL 102, Stock or mild stall, 3.55 ratio max, 293hp@5000, 356trq@3600, 8.2:1CR. $573.17 for the complete kit. Rear ratio is off from my 3.91 and seems low on power compared to other dyno runs I've seen. I was under the impression I could get...

The best option for the money and simplicity as I see it right now, is a compromise. A slightly bigger cam. Comp Cams Kit with a 224/230, .477/.480, 1600-5800 rpm. This will allow me to run the stock converter until I'm ready to upgrade the converter and install manual valve body to take full...

Yea, I was initially wanting to get a cam that didn't required any transmission upgrades that would still put me in the 14-12.90 range. Others have done it. I thought I was set on the smaller 218/224, .462/.470 Comp cam. As this conversation progresses, suggestions have been made to go bigger...

Comp Cams offers a "292" cam. 244/244@50, .501/.501, 3000-6500rpm, LSA 110, ICL 106, 3000-3500 stall required. No specs on the springs, but are included in the full kit. But the kit has spec listed at 280/280, 230/230@50, .480/.480, LSA 110, ICL ?, 3000-3500 stall required, calling it a 292H...

Ok, I like the info here, but this get very complicated now. I can get a Purple Cam 292/292, 248/248@50, .508/.508, 2800-6200rpm, LSA 108, ICL ?. I like the Mopar Connection. I found Melling USA lifters Stock=JB-2011, Performance=290114. Not sure what warrants performance lifters? I cannot find...

I will have to do an inspection on the engine. I think it had 70K on it. I'll have to go back and look at the odometer in the Polara. Most of these upgrades are best case scenario. If the engine is wore out, I will still install in the car and make a slow pass, but plan on regrouping next year...

I was told that anything over .500 lift will punch a hole through the stock rocker arms. I won't change rockers until I do heads, and that will be awhile. Also take into account I may mill the heads a bit, and the the pushrods will be that much longer. I would hate to grenade the top end before...

Ok, these are the Comp options in the realm of conversation. All good for 3.91 gears and maxing out lift on stock rockers and pushrods. The only reason I keep going back to Comp Cams is the convenience of the complete package and out of the box specs compared to other brands. I am not concerned...