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On my car the original door bumper are symmetrical with no ridges. I haven't installed the replacements yet. The deck lid bumpers were incorrect on my kit so he sent me the correct flat ones. They have ridges that face towards the inside of the car, but I'm not sure how the ones you have...

Thanks so much. I don't see anything over the lip, so looks like it goes flush like in my last picture.

I posted a pic of my splash shields, both sides for the door jamb and the headlight. I know where they go, there's just no installation instructions. As I said, I'm starting from scratch with no reference. I'm still needing to determine the proper bolt side to install the splash shields. But...

Right, I'm just not sure which way they go. I presume they are not "sandwiched" between the fender and the shield, but go on the inside towards the tire to seal the seams. The only thing I'm having an issue with is determining which way the gasket goes on the headlight shield. I'm not sure if...

Our car didn't come with any splash shields, so I bought those from helpful folks here on the forum. I bought the gasket set from Detroit Muscle, but I'm not sure how they install. I mean, I do, it's kinda obvious, but kinda not. Since I have no reference it's hard to determine. I presume I...

Found another wiring diagram.

I've actually jumpered two new fuse boxes to the original. One for switched and one for non-switched power for things I'm adding. For non-switched I jumpered off the spotlight lug since I don't have one and the switched I jumpered off the rear window defogger lug, since I don't have one.

Maybe. I'm not sure. As far as I can tell, they hooked it up like that for no reason. It doesn't go anywhere. There's no lights and the door switches were disconnected. I'm at a loss. I'll just leave them disconnected until I find something that may not work. Thanks for checking it out...

Thanks for the help guys. I don't have a glove box lamp. What's got me confused is that I don't have M-3 either. They took off X-1 completely and looks like they connected M2-A where X-1 was supposed to be. There was no right door switch so it just goes to the headlight switch and to the...

Good deal. Looks like the forum supports PDF. I just printed the two pages from the service manual to PDF for the pages needed.

I've attached a diagram to my initial post, though it may be a bit blurry. I went ahead and wired up everything as it should be with the exception of the door switches while I try and figure out what they did. I'm wondering if I can just add resistors or something to the wiring. Since there's...

Yup, you can feel it. So am I reading the schematic correctly? Q3 is coming in straight from the battery. M-3 is directly connected to that on the non-fused side. I'm wanting to wire it up the way it should be, but I'm not wanting to burn anything up in the process. Are the bulbs the...

Gotcha, so turning on the courtesy/dome lights basically turns off the dash lights. I guess I will need them powered due to the seat belt requirements. From what I can tell looking at the diagram, the door switches appear to be unfused coming straight off the battery connector on the hot side...

Well, I mean, if I have no interior lights, I guess technically there's no reason to leave them connected. The only thing the door switches would be used for is the seat belts on the Sebring convertible seats I installed. My light switch does rotate. Like an on, off click and then I presume...

So, I've been working on the 1964 Barracuda. I replaced the clips in the fuse box and wired it up the way it came out. Today, I noticed that one of the 20A fuses was blowing. The fuse is supposed to be for the cigar lighter, but it's not hooked up. It was a yellow wire. I confirmed with...

Yup, here's mine on the driver's side. I'm going to have to run one to the passenger as it's gone, or at least I can't find it. Switch was gone on mine as well.

Found. Thanks all!

Well, I just installed it and slammed the door. Looks like it works. Thanks guys. I also have an extra pair of switches I guess to throw the the extra parts pin. Ha! I actually did it gently before I slammed it, just for the record.

I'll give it a shot. I've got nothing to lose. ^_^

I've been having a hard time finding a switch. I've bought two different part numbers that indicate they are compatible with my 64 Barracuda, but they are too long. If I close the door all the way, they will be crushed. Left is original, middle is Standard Motor Products DS173T and right is a...

I'll hit you up via IM.

I'm not needing something functional and would prefer not to convert something that can be restored to original. If somebody just has a base that would be fine. Don't need the pump or the bellows.

Fixed

Probably not. Mine doesn't have one at all, and only has a single speed wiper. Instead of buying a multi-speed motor and new switch, I'm just going to put a button on the floor.

Thanks, but I'm more needing just the frame than the bellows since I'm going to be converting it to a switch.

Looking for a foot pump for a 64 Barracuda. Doesn't need to be functional as I'm going to modify it with a switch to use a powered pump, but it'd be nice if it were cosmetically sound.

Figured I'd do a quick update. I tried Motsenbocker's Lift Off 4 and it did haze the plastic. I had it wrapped in paper towels to keep it wet. It's almost went white like it transferred the white paper towel to the plastic. Figured there wasn't anything left to lose, so I had a left over 3M...

Just an update. I talked with James via email. Good guy. Those on the bottom right were for the deck lid, but mine were different. He's sending me the appropriate ones, plus also the correct hood bumpers towards the back as the ones that arrived were 1" and mine are 1 1/4".

The only difference between the Trico 43 and 44 is that the structure is metal vs plastic, correct? Worst case I guess you could get a 44-190 and cut them to 13".

Thanks guys. I'll drop by TruckPro when I can. Problem is they have the same working hours as me. ^_^