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I hated those guys. Never met one that was a decent human being

The definitive answer is in. Thanks for all the input gents as apparently I was too dense to pick up on it. There is NO aftermarket SFI rated flexplate for the Slant 6. I will be modifying a small block flex plate per Charlie S' suggestion. Took me a while but now I get it. Thanks for...

Have posted pics etc at various stages throughout the process but will start a dedicated thread in a few weeks when we begin assembly and installation of the high dollar engine (at least it was high dollar to me).

Thanks for the tips! Ill be stopping by A&A transmisson today. There is a solution for the flexplate. Not too worried about that. Just thought it weird that I had two old core engines with cranks that have no identifying casting numbers on them. I do know one of the blocks was a "warranty"...

Crazy thing is I completely believe you. Makes total sense.

Basically what I am contemplating is getting some use out of all this stuff and assembling a stock block with my efi intake and turbo as a learning curve for the whole system without risking the cost of an expensive engine. (yeah - I should have thought about that before I dove so deep in the...

Gentlemen you are correct. I used the wrong terminology. There is about .020 spacing difference between a couple of the holes. The aftermarket SFI flexplate I got from A&A doesn't fit as they are much more staggered. Rick Alison advised that if I had the one that looks even there is not an...

So, going through cores acquired during my son's slant 6 turbo efi build and I have come across a few things about which I can't find information. I have two forged crankshafts with NO casting numbers that cross reference. Crank number 1 has a 13 on a throw and the number 70 on another throw...

They are great. I've asked them for all kinds of help on my early A project. We all have learned a lot on what works and what doesnt. Going to be leaning on Bryce a ton on the next electrical phase for ECU. Their knowledge is immense.

i had my copper head gasket made. just saw it today at machine shop. made off a stock template with a .050 block bore. also .050 thick to accomodate ringed block and head for boost. Cometic was a strikeout. if interested send me a message and ill share contact info. BUT i will say it...

on my 64 Dart I have the QA1 upper and Lower control arms. Have 15x6 weld pro star rims with 3.5 backspace 0 offset with 60 series tires and it clears. 73& u is brake set up. Clears fine. I can check weather 225 or 235 tomorrow. I just can’t remember off top of my head.

I’m sure you will. Enjoy the new engine and hopefully you are out cruising in it this fall!

Best luck with it. What pressure cap are you running? Big block in A body is always a cooling struggle. I have not owned a Cold Case radiator but you can never underestimate to importance of blade placement, shroud and or clutch. As I mentioned before, once I switched to aluminum 3 core...

26 inch aluminum 3 core. Cheap china unit off e bay. No sense in hanging onto the old one that needed rebuilt anyway. Not a show car just a resto mod kinda car. Agree with above about timing and mixture but I don’t live in Vermont. Saturated humidity here in southeast Indiana. The...

Hopefully someone close to him. I was just showing my son a couple weeks ago some old emails that Bill and I would share that were printed off a dot matrix printer. He kept his finger on the pulse of class racing when class racing meant something to the average guy.

Bill was legend. I still have e mails he would send me in the early 1990s when I was trying to get a 69 Dart 440 to qualify in stock eliminator. He was a wealth of knowledge. RIP Bill

I put the MarkII on my 1964 Dart current build. Giant PIA but looks cool. Photos below are not current. Radiator had to be moved and some significant trimming to allow for intercooler. Yes- many mods for early A body. Dave and Bryce Gills turbo kit doesn’t fit early A body either...

You are diving into deep waters of expense and headache Nothing you can’t handle with a diesel experience background but oddities and eccentricities abound with your current concept or plan. Transmission case size is different, shifter cables are different length. Input shaft is different...

why is that more difficult? It's an easy fix if you are careful and a magnetic pickup can reach in and get it if you drop it. the lifter bores and cam keep it from falling anywhere suspect. I've seen it done many times in a pinch. In the early aluminum head days with Bob Glidden and other...

if you have room why not carefully place a washer and nut on the backside of the bolt through the head with the valve cover off? You are only trying to achieve a seal on the manifold. If you get torque spec the manifold doesn't know it has a nut versus threaded?

Yes!!! Saw all of those. Beautiful cars. I’m a bit down on the fact that all you have to do is buy a kit for the suspension and buy a drivetrain on a crate for a bolt in 392 conversion. Love seeing people put in the work to make something unique

It was a great turnout this year. Lots of cars lots of people. Spoke with Rick Alison of A&A transmission and it was his 3rd best show ever. Way better than last year. There were actually some hot rods there. Built not bought. Nice

Thanks- Its getting close. Its based on a 225

Hope to be running soon. Dummy block all mocked up. Waiting on machine shop

Well, I'm back in the building game. The pics earlier in the thread are still representative of the dummy power plant except for making the throttle body adapter to make to the Gill welding intake fit. Still waiting on machine shop to get me the actual engine back so I can assemble it and...

Run it! Looks Great! My son and I put the top on his car by ourselves and have never cussed, shoved and thrown things at each other more than that project. I have all kinds of respect for people that can do this. I've rebuild transmissions, engines, final drives in hydraulic equipment, pumps...

The ST wire closes the relay off the ignition switch when in key start. But you would still need 12 V like a typical relay once the ST wire is energizes to close the circuit. The wire to solenoid and wire on relay aren’t connected until ignition energizes and closes the circuit. But hey...

I believe you need it since you are using the relay as it’s intended instead of just as a gang junction. Or trace back the solenoid power wire to the painless fuse block if being used. Some of those kits are basically GM blocks with mods I think you will need the 12v big gauge to make sure...

Finally solved my cooling issues with a 26 inch radiator and dual SPAL electric fans mated with a pre fab unvisersal shroud from Jegs. Works great and move a TON of air. Waited too long to pull the trigger on the set up. Should have done it years ago

Thanks -- Yes, going with a turbo blanket and plan to wrap that portion of the pipe as well. Likely fab up a little heat shield onto exhaust as well. Still have to cope in the wastegate pipe and tie that in as well. I got the pipe as far away from the MC as I could and still hit the...