Search results for query: *

It was really tough for me getting through engineering school and all those tech jobs because I could never understand all that gosh darn science and ciphering mumbo jumbo. Good thing there were always scientists like you to help me get by when my brain just couldn’t get it done. Sorry, gotta...

Excuse me for giving erroneous information in an attempt to save a guy time, money, and aggravation. 35 years of owning, building and driving manual transmission vehicles and I really haven’t learned much, my own experiences were figments of my imagination. Somehow the magic elixir of...

Actually at least the earlier cars used a 1" MC on both manual & disc A-body apps. I used a 1" for mine & it works fine, good feel & stops strong, Wilwood calipers. I'm sure 15/16" would be great as well. I'd be inclined to go with a later aluminum if you don't care about the appearance of...

Regardless of disc type, a light flywheel impacts takeoff from a standing start since it lacks the inertia of a heavier one. You will have to slip it more to get it moving, increasing wear. If you want to drive your car in every day, stop & go traffic & have steep hills like around here I...

Obviously some like light flywheels but I sure didn't. I used a lightweight steel (believe it was around 18-20 lbs) & aforementioned sof-lok iron disc and it did not work out. Flywheel was too light & initially decent clutch feel eventually deteriorated. A standard weight steel & organic disc...

You can get custom from Smith Bros. Also search Summit by length, they have a large selection. Go with a quality 1 piece, you won't regret it. Two piece & welded tip are prone to failure.

Just went through this, my 516's were around 82cc although did have a previous cheap valve job but were not resurfaced. Installed 1.74 & 2.14" valves, hardened seats, surfaced 0.005" & came up with about 76cc. My machinist did say some hit water w/ hardened seats, most do not but can happen as...

The HEI & mopar electronic setups are merely electronic switches that are modestly better than the old points setups, they just offer longer / more stable spark and no mechanical wear. I would use a multispark box, these offer greater performance, you can notice right from the driver's seat...

Just another 2 cents- If you have a 23k original Valiant, do NOT hack the floor for a floor shifter. The column shift has a certain nostalgia factor & if set up properly works pretty smooth. Any 4-speed setup from an early A should work (with some fabrication) but your investment in time &...

I give up.... :BangHead:

Depends of on your definition of "fit" I suppose. I require my door to fit flush with surrounding sheet metal. With the new stuff this was impossible, even applying 100 pounds of force on the door. The door can be closed though, if that means "fit" then OK. Lucky for me my old seals were...

That's a pretty screwed up Z-bar & I can't tell what the POS is hanging off the ball stud. Go to Brewer's site & find the correct parts. If you have some special header arrangement call them & see what they say. Put the tranny back in & solve your linkage issue, see thread 9.

Your issue is failure of the clutch to disengage, nothing more. Before you start ripping everything apart you need to check out the linkage thoroughly. Are the plastic bearings in the Z-bar still there? Is the fork pushrod incorrect (too short)? Take off the inspection cover & have someone...

If only the repro stuff actually fit properly... The rubber seal is too thick necessitating the mounting lip be bent back if you want proper door alignment. The fabric also looks a bit different, not shiny like original.

Incorrect, they are made in Taiwan. Do seem to be high quality though, just installed one of their Trutracs. If you must use USA made then an old power lock could be rebuilt. I'd suck it up & use it.

It looks like a 273 but actually a bored / stroked 340, 396CI, 400ish HP/ torque. Limiting factor is tire traction, same as a healthy 273. It has a light rotating assy (less than 273) which makes it a wild revver. If you are light duty street driving I would go with the factory 10" organic...

That was my logic when I went forward with my 9.5 setup(s). Also considered using a special multi-disc setup like above and a Ford 10" diaphragm. My final setup was an iron "street" disc with billet flywheel that held strong, was light & smooth at first, but ultimately became very grabby. The...

The iron will be very hard on your flywheel & is not a good street choice if that's what you intend. RAM is also on my personal blacklist as they sold me a bum hemi pressure plate years ago but maybe it was just a fluke. I have a long memory when I get either very good or bad part. Like you I...

If you don't want to spend much you better stop right now. To do the job right you'll basically need to change out the whole drivetrain & more. New bellhousing / clutch, trans with slip yoke, custom driveshaft, bigger rear end, bigger brakes, bigger wheels/ tires, upgraded suspension with...

Lots of people see stuff on a car & rigidly think they all came that way & only that way is "correct". The truth of the matter is that there was a great deal of variation. Anything that was done by a line worker with minimal oversight could be done quite a bit differently & still roll on down...

Here's mine after hours spent cleaning. Based on the drips the shell was dipped in a vat of grey primer then painted. Different plants & bodies had different levels of overspray, I've seen some original B-bodies that had a lot of paint underneath, so much that it appeared from a quick glance...

On second thought I'm doing a 180. Apologies mojack. That is an early A shifter, although it looks like it's been painted. They must not have put the stops on the A's, can't believe I didn't remember that as I've rebuilt & seen several. Here's the only pic I have of mine, it's in deep winter...

There were no part numbers stamped on the factory Hurst shifters, at least on the earlier cars. Can't comment on post '71, not my area of interest. If anyone's really interested, can post a 65 B-body shifter that I'm currently pulling the motor from, I may also have a pic of a 65 A-body...

Highly unlikely your shifter is original. Have owned / seen multiple original 64-65 Hurst shifters (A, B, & C-body) & all had stops. The factory service manuals for those years illustrate the stops & also provide the adjustment procedure. Mopar eliminated the stops when they reintroduced...

The early Hurst shifters had stops, they got rid of them later, probably a cost savings.

Definitely not for that, the shift levers are too long & doesn't have shift stops to start with. Maybe not for a mopar?

My solution- http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?93775-FYI-my-cheapskate-hidden-stereo&highlight=cheapskate

61forfun, flat out love your car, one of my all time favorite mopes. Looks so cool with the fastback & baby caps. Keep the pics coming, how 'bout the engine?

I always get cables / adapters of any type from ebay. Most are free shipping, no tax, much greater selection, and vastly cheaper than anything you find in a store.