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Pulled the tank out of my 72 dart swinger because I'm upgrading to a tanks inc. Nothing wrong with old tank sending unit worked & might be a larger pick up, not sure. Has a male drain port in center of it. Free if anyone wants it, pick up only 08734 NJ

After reading post #37 & #38 I short circuited a few times. Then rered and learned alot. Thanks for the detail

Thanks !

Got it. 810 would be the 6cyl bar correct ?

Besides using a micrometer foes anyone know hoe to identify the torsion bars? Any markings or numbers to look for on the bar?

I'm kinda thinking it has something to do with the steering rod / box. I do have a good amount of play in the steering wheel. . The clearance between the header and steering rod is literally paper thin.

Cool looking, hooks well in straight line, & oil pan safety. . .. .my main concern with the oil pan is not so much just driving around but when the thing hooks and lifts if it will smack when coming down

Thanks all the info& such a detailed response. I have to figure out what size bars I have now but Ifv anything I'd want the thinnest best possible for two reasons. #1 I want to pair a thin bar with 90/10s for drag racing. #2 depending upon how I turn the wheel the driver bar will vibrate...

That's what I was afraid of

Definitely makes you very aware of the road

That might be the ticket. I'm going to look for them

Zoom in, you will see how it's misshapen lol

This is how it sits now. I like the stance & don't mind the ride. Just don't want to beat the crap out of the front end and have to do something to aid in traction. It doesn't hook & the front passenger side lifts

Good pointer & reference. Thanks

Figured it was hard on suspension. Would I crank torsion bars or lower control arms to raise it?

That picture is taken from behind the front tire looking forward

Is the feont subframe supposed to actually contact & sit on the bump stop? Do I have to crank the torsion bars to lift it off ? Thanks

Yup. Also bought a 6.5 & 7.5 I'm going to try. The bog at the initial hit of the throttle is gone. Might be more due to the timing coming in faster

No idea, didn't get a hose long enough for the gauge yet

Not sure if the elimination of the initial bog I was getting is due to the larger power valve or timing coming in faster

Took the car out after some minor changes & thing seems to be running great. After pulling the carb apart I re- adjusted the 4 corner idle, raised the idle alittle, reset the float bowls, & went up to a 5.5 power valve. Also I swapped from two heavy silver springs to the blue springs in the...

Well I'm happy to report as other have recommended that it was a fuel issue ! Very strange even though fuel was coming out of the boosters junk was in the fuel bowls. It looks like holleys hard coating debris made its way in the fuel bowls and was intermittently lodging itself in the needles /...

I checked everything at the carb and was driving around for a good 30min prior to this happening. Certainly can't hurt to triple check, stay posted

It's getting fuel, test & confirmed msd box / coil are working, leaning towards mechanical issue... punched it cruising at approx. 40mph, smelt gas for a second and then it just starting running very rough, smoke out of exhaust pipes. Almost knocking like it's misfiring. Started a couple times...

Haven't dove into carb tunning yet. Just remember reading as a basic rule of thumb the pv should be approx 1/2 the size of your manifold vac measurement at idle.

Nice, from what I'm reading it sounds approx 1/2 of your manifold vacum. . .I'm pulling about 13 at idle so I was going to go up to a 6.5. .. with your big cam maybe a 3.5 would be right for you

Thanks ! It's most likely going to be a pretty garage ornament for the next few months

Well the saga continues . . . .thing was running great and then this

Yup. Still got aways to go lol

Yup, I think the timing is coming in way too late. Has both heavy springs in it, gonna throw the light on it later