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sorry here is a slightly longer video.

Hello all. My rebuilt 5.9l with around 4k miles has a small tick at idle. I put on hearers a week ago and it DEFINITELY has a leak somewhere, but I'm not sure if this sounds like an exhaust leak or valve noise at idle. It has a comp cam and the valvetrain has always been a touch noisy but I'm...

Huh. I'll definitely have to look into that. I don't remember if mine had that stupid center divider or not...

Makes sense. The heads I have are stock but the aftermarket heads that are stronger. Maybe I will have more work done to them eventually. For now I'm gonna do headers and the 1.7 rockers. What is your tire size and gear ratio?

Yes as in stock pistons. If I could go back I'd bump the compression a little but that's way down the line hopefully. Are your heads stock, but ported? Kegger intake?

I did indeed do the aluminum plate conversion when I rebuilt the engine. My engine is a magnum block. I think like a 96 or so. Thoughts on paring the 1.7 rockers with the cam? Not too familiar with the mods to the ports though.

Hello all. I am coming to ask for opinions on mods to complement my engine. This engine is fully rebuilt by myself. Here is what it has: fully rebuilt bottom end (stock... and i regret it) Comp adjustable double roller timing chain hughes 1110 valve springs Comp 20-744-9 cam New, stock heads...

well... absolutely nothing. All bolts were tight. No rubbing between anything. Even swapped out all the rod bearings (old ones were fine, one was scratched, had about 1000 miles on em). Cylinder walls looked clean, wrist pins moved freely. I've just been driving the truck. Beating on the...

Do I measure that when the lifters are pumped up? Aka when the engine is warm?

I recently rebuilt my magnum 360. I put in a comp 20-744-9 with .480 lift intake and exhaust. Stock heads and stock bottom end. Valve springs are upgraded with hughes 1110. I do have a little valvetrain noise. Machine shop said it's fine and that adjustable rockers could help vs the...

Yep and there is a reason I came to this forum with a dodge truck. Because it is without a doubt the most helpful. Thanks yall.

Sorry I felt like I was arguing there. It's gone now so I've been driving it. If it blows I pull it

But the noise is never there anymore.

None of those noises go away though. That knock that I posted in post 72 is now gone. But rod knock also doesn't fix itself either. So none of our theories make sense. So who knows.

Yea I'm just leaving it at I have no idea. Bore looked completely fine. Top of the piston was fine. Wrist pin moved freely. Even the bearings that came out looked fine. Maybe it just likes to knock when it has fresh bearings for a little bit... who knows

Tough to say what it was. Only does it with fresh rod bearings. And was loudest in the oil pan on the opposite side of cylinder 2. Only thing I can think of that's down there are the bearings... especially since that's all I touched.

Yep. Nobody I've talked to can make sense of it. It was definitely a hard, rhythmic knock. But it went away. Almost no bottom end nosie should go away like that. Definitely heard loudest in the oil pan. Definitely cylinder 2. At least it's gone now

Ok so here is an update along with videos. The first video is about 5 minutes after I started it up with fresh rod bearings. The second video was taken yesterday with the engine fully warm after 30 minutes of driving. The noise has gone away pretty much fully. Might be a tiny tap but I can't...

It's got to be something wrong with the bearing or rod I think. Only thing I messed with was the bearing. Same cylinder made the same noise when this engine was fresh... the ONLY thing that the machine didn't check was the roundness of the rod. He may have even done that. Just didnt ask. He said...

Noise still goes away with the plug wire disconnected

What is the best way to do that without hurting the crank ?

Spark plug looks the same as the one next to it. Looks clean.

And yea the machinist pressed in the pins and I oiled them before install. The rod seemed to move freely when I swapped bearings.

I used a bore scope this morning. No signs of an issue in the bore. I may be stuck dropping the pan yet again

Pistons are brand new standard pistons. They are hypereutectic. The machine shop measured the bores and conformed they were in spec. They were honed. The noise can be easily heard using a stethoscope on the OPPOSITE side of cylinder 2 on the oil pan. I can't hear the noise if I put the...

Not that I'm aware of. Unfortunately it's definitely an actual issue. Noise goes away completely with cylinder 2 not firing... damn

That's a damn good question. Maybe since I used old rods the cap may be worn. But the bearing would still show wear... the machinist gave me a bore scope. Looked fine. Wrist pin moved fine when I swapped bearings. Machinist said it doesn't sound like a rod knock. More like something hitting. But...

This noise is a very rhythmic knock. Definitely sounds like a rod. Let's say that the bearing and crank journal is good (which they both should be). What could cause rod knock? The bearing cap? I just don't see how putting fresh bearings in caused it to have rod knock. This noise wasn't here...

Pulled injector wire on cylinder 2. Noise changes. It's something on cylinder 2. Pretty sure rod bearing. That's the only thing I messed with and boom now I have this noise.

That's a good idea. Almost 90% positive it's cylinder 1 but I can narrow it. But I don't know why it's knocking... its got fresh bearings the were plastigaged. Only thing I can think is the crank is out of round. Idk. Kinda discouraging.