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Thoughts on these and this shop? 1962-1972 Plymouth Duster Valiant with Drum Brakes New Upper and Lower Ball Joint Set What about using the offset upper control arm bushings?

For a car that's not a daily driver and certainly isn't set up for performance, is it worth the extra $200 for the Super kit?

While I had my '65 at the shop getting the brakes sorted, I asked them to give me an inventory of front end components that needed work. As I expected, it needs pretty much everything. - all ball joints - inner and outer tie rod ends - pitman arm and idler arm (I'm assuming he meant the...

Got a link?

I'm striking out at all of the local stores. O'Reilly tried to order them but no delivery date is available. I keep reading about people cutting down inexpensive refills but I can't find out exactly WHAT refills they are using.

Are these the wiper inserts/refills everyone is talking about? To cut down and use in the metal blades for the original style wipers?

Just a follow up, in case anyone is interested. Took the car to a different shop and they found a ton of air in the RF wheel cylinder. He said that the proportioning valve was set all wrong and that's why the other shop couldn't get the brakes bled properly. He adjust the valve, all brakes and...

I have a ton of both! LOL Free play and travel.

Oh, there's a ton of free play. I guess the free play can be measured in inches, and the pedal will go almost to the floor with the engine off. I'll start with readjusting the brakes and see what happens.

Does it look like I have some adjustment available in the pushrod? I know...pics are horrible, but it's really hard to get a good shot. I'll see how far the pedal moves without the engine running when I get home.

It's been suggested that I ditch the power booster and go with a stock M/C. Any links or suggestions for the best one? I know the booster doesn't know or care what vehicle it's on. I'm told ... right or wrong .. that the pedal assembly is wrong for a power brake system. Something about the...

1965 Valiant. I'd like some thoughts and advice on my brakes, please. When I bought the car, it came to me with some issues and some "upgrades". I took it to a local shop that specializes in vintage cars. They fixed a leaky RF wheel cylinder, replaced a cracked drum (I believe it was the LF)...

Everybody mentions the clevis pin, but this is my first Valiant .... what's supposed to be there? I see RRR's pic above but can't make out how it's attached ... what's holding it on.

Both sides look the same. Except I added that strip of rubber to make the drivers side stop thicker (and that helped). When you say "springs in the center may be broken", what are you referring to? The seat springs inside the seat(s)? I don't think so; they feel and look fine. If anyone has...

I posted about this a while back, but I could use some advice on my seatback. Something is damaged or bent, and the seat will sometimes fall backwards, which is dangerous. I will add some before/after pics of my attempts at repair. I added a washer to the outside of the frame where the...

I'm sure I'm overlooking it, but the search function isn't giving me the answer. Tell me about using the Dodge Dakota "mini starter". By mini, so they mean the stock starter? Is it a direct bolt in? Any wiring changes needed? What year(s) starter works, etc.

I did just that. Swapped in an LED bulb.

Finally checked mileage on a tank of gas with normal driving (mostly around town, back and forth to work) and all of the tune up stuff netted me 21.29 mpg! That's almost 10mpg better than my baseline. Also got the Valiant and my '63 Bug out to a cruise in last night.

I finally got a chance to check the gas mileage on a tank of "normal" driving after getting rid of the crappy, 1982 EPA carb and putting in the recurved distributor. Mostly around town and back and forth to work driving netted me, get this.... 21.29 MPG! That's nearly 10 MPG better than before...

That's definitely not there. I didn't recover the seats, so I'm not sure if there's a place for a pin or not. The rubber strip helped TREMENDOUSLY.

It's a 1965 Valiant 200 convertible with a bench seat. This is how it came to me. What I've done has already made a huge difference. I was able to get the screws back in the existing holes. One thing I may try is building it up a little thicker on the outside.

The seat doesn't feel broken and the holes aren't elongated. I had some 1/4" (6mm) scrap rubber in the garage. I cut an 8" long by 1" wide strip and added it under the existing rub strip. The seat already feels much firmer and more secure and even sits up straighter and more square. I'll see...

What is inside of the seat that may be worn or broken? I did think about building up that "rub strip". Do you have pics of the plastic on your seat? To possibly give me some ideas?

Why does my drivers seat want to flop back into a reclined position? If I flop into the seat too hard or push back too hard, the seat falls backwards. Is there something amiss with the pin in the center? I tried bending the tab the pin is on, bending the corresponding tab in the seat back...

Even with a bunch of idling and "flooring it" to test the kick down, the ignition tune up and carb swap has gained me 2MPG. I bumped the timing up from 8* BTDC to 12* BTDC (it goes to about 24 total when revved). It seems a little perkier and goes down the road great, but at the cost of needing...

Here are the instructions I followed yesterday to check/adjust it at the lower end. Step #7: when the rod is held upwards against the stop it is about one turn longer than it needs to be to snap directly onto the linkage. But, the shorter the rod is, the quicker the upshift. The current length...

Do what? What else? The adjustment at the trans is adjusted per the FSM. I'm getting full throttle. If anything, the TV rod is LONGER than the FSM calls for, but if I shorten it, the upshifts come too soon.

I was able to get underneath and check the lower adjustment using the FSM instructions. Apparently, everything is adjusted per spec. I guess it's all it's gonna be.

But it should hold it for more than 3-5 seconds, right? As bad as the P.O. had the linkage messed up, I'd really like to check the lower adjustment as well.