Search results for query: *

Thanks guys. For now I’m going to do sway bars and check all the bushings.

It’s a 72 Duster. Just street driving. It’s set up similar to 71GSSdemon’s above except it’s a bit higher in the front. It does hook good the way it is when I need it to. Yes the wheels are 10” and this is the only issue. Nothing inside rubs nor the right outside. I’m think a sway bar will solve...

I’m running 295/50-15’s on the back and everything clears fine except when making a right turns. When I do the body rolls and it’s rubbing the outer sidewall of the tire. Would SS springs cure it, should I just do a sway bar, or is it necessary to do both? If I put on springs I’m not real sure...

Pm sent

I’m looking for a couple cheap axles to make tools to rebuild my suregrip. I don’t need the whole axles just maybe a foot or so of two axles to use to line up the splines.

Exactly what I was thinking. Thank you

Of all I’m doing is installing a suregrip to replace my open carrier in my 8 3/4 489 housing I should be able to swap the ring gear, reinstall, set the backlash, and it should be good to go correct?

I’m not going to run them because I mainly drive streets. Looking at BFG radial ta’s for front and back. 155/80r15 for front, but torn between 275/60 and 295/50 for the rear

It’s a ‘72 Duster mild 360/727 (stalls about 2600) with 8 3/4 rear. It’s open right now, but I have a sure grip to install which is why I’m asking if I should change while I’m in there. It is a street car. It has no mini tubs, but I do have the kit to move the springs in when I get the chance...

I have a 3.23 rear. Im going from a 225/70r14 on stock wheels to a 275/60 or 295/50r15 on light weight weld knock offs. I like the way it performs on what I have, but I want a wider tire and I’m adding a suregrip. Will I be ok with what I have or should I go a bit deeper gearing while I’m at it?

I did some searching and there’s not a converter shop close to me. I did however find a place near Dallas, Performance Torque Converters of Texas. They seem to have a good reputation and will rebuild my converter to 2800 stall for $250. Does anyone know about them? I want to get this car back on...

Currently 3.23’s factory weight(around 3400 I think), current tire is a 225 but going to a 12.50 soon, stock converter I think, 360 bored .060 over with roller lifters and rpm air gap manifold and headers. I know the gear is a bit tall, but I also need to have decent rpm’s on the highway. May go...

My converter has not acted right since I got my car. It won’t allow it to idle in gear without some help from the throttle. I’m looking at a Hughes 24-25, but also want to get the best bang for my dollar. Probably going to swap the cam to a voodoo 268 while the motor is out. I’m trying to stay...

I think I’ve figured it out, and it makes me feel stupid. I did as suggested and removed the distributor, brought it up to TDC, rolled it back to about 12* btdc, put in the distributor and set it to #1 plug wire. Cranked a bit and it fired up and runs way better. I think I just had it far enough...

I guess that’s my next step. The factory timing marks only go 10* each way. I’ll pull it and reset like you said. Unfortunately I won’t be able to do that until Saturday evening so it will be eating at me until then.

5-10 atdc is where it will run. Timing light set on zero and engine running I can adjust the distributor within this range before it starts to run like crap or die.

You’re right something did change. That’s what I’m try to figure out. The only thing done to the heads was clean the old gaskets off and check for straightness. Pistons are all right side up in the same hole they came out of with rings at 10 and 2, and oil rings at 8 and 4 with center spacer at...

Anything is possible I guess, but I had it 180 out once and all it would do is pop and fart. Wouldn’t run at all.

Drivers side, and no loose wires anywhere on ignition side. The only thing that got unplugged was the distributor. Everything else stayed in the car.

It’s hard to believe that every one of those was working fine and now one isn’t. I’ll see what I can figure out. I have a truck I can swap some parts from to try. I’ll have to look again, but I believe it has the silver ignition box.

I verified TDC before I even put the heads on then again with valve train installed, and twice since the motor was put in the car.

Yes sir. Take off all main caps then slide out the old, and lube up the new and slide in. It’s running so it can’t be 180 out.

Yes. Not my first rodeo, but this one has me stumped. Ran fine other than smoking, and now it runs like crap

I never removed the cam, timing set, or crankshaft. Wires to the distributor are plug in and only go one way. And it’s not a marine engine. Everything rotates clockwise as it should. I have no clue if the cam was decreed.

Either way it’s showing atdc according to the timing light.

Positive. Twice!

It’s only running from 5-10 degrees after TDC. It should be 10-15 before. Anything more or less than that it will die. Idles fine and best at about 8, but anything over 1/4 throttle it clatters bad

It ran perfectly fine 4 weeks ago when I pulled it except for it smoking and blowby due to a bad head gasket and pinched top ring on #2.

I basically did a rebuild on the 360 in my Duster. New main and rod bearings, one new piston to replace one slightly bad one, new rings, new pushrods(same length as old ones), and new gaskets. I did not remove the cam, crank, or timing chain. I’ve checked the crank pulley for correct TDC twice...