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Could have swore I had a post going about this but can’t find it. I ordered part #4222731 kind of on the fly and it is too small. Does anyone know of a plug that will fit a 1.25” opening? Pics attached.

Looking for an antenna delete plug #4222731

Going to roll with the diagram in post #8 except for the master switch being located in the rear most part of the car I will install a switch somewhere in cab for more of a security feature. Running 1/0 welding cable for the pos/neg to relays and to the starter. #4 welding cable to alternator...

Awesome information thank you. I sprayed the metal steering column with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator matte black, the rear seat upper metal trim with both DupliColor Caliper paint and Krylon self etching primer. Also used the caliper paint on the plastic door arm rest mounts. I think there was...

Think I’m just going to strip it all then use thinners and wax/grease remover. What a pain

This is the 2nd time I’ve attempted painting interior parts, first one was the steering column, and the same thing happens. I believe it’s fish eyeing but don’t know for sure. It’s done it with 3 different spray paint types on 3 different parts. I sanded all the parts down, wiped them well with...

Found this wiring diagram by a member here. What is the “Switched power source”that controls the alternators continuous duty relay?

Ah gotcha, so I could do another wire from the line side of the Ford solenoid to the engine bay starter relay?

I want to put the battery in the trunk and want a disconnect in cab for security purposes. I am not worried about NHRA guideline but…. if I went this route could I just add a master disconnect to the line side of the Ford relay to be within NHRA guidelines down the road?

What did you use to cut the holes for the white tabs?

Got the window and vent frame out. Wasn’t too horrible. Talk about a can of worms though. Good opportunity to really clean everything up good. Will probably order some new cat whiskers and give the interior side of the door a fresh coat of black.

Awesome thanks! I’ll see if we have one of those soldering irons at work.

Just got some new felt and tabs for the front of the door glass run channel. From what I’ve reached looks like I need to: -Pop the door glass out the top -Take the entire window channel with the vent glass out the top -Cut some holes for the tabs in the new felt/plastic -Trim the top side of...

Do you all think doing a refresh on this motor would benefit performance in any way? Thinking about honing the cylinders and installing fresh rings and obviously gasket kit. But with all the compression numbers close to each other it doesn’t seem like any one cylinder has any issues. I’m...

Wow good to hear about the KBS. I’m wondering how long ago this coating was put in the trunk. It’s super hard like KBS or POR and has rust under it. And a complete PAIN to remove. I would rather just cut and weld the bad spots, wire wheel the rest off, use a rust dissolver like Rust Mort in the...

This isn’t too bad, still going through it. I f there is any serious frame rust though that’s where I would throw in the towel. But it just seems like the package tray, trunk,

my plan is to wire wheel as much rust off as possible, cut and replace a few small spots that have actually rusted through the metal creating holes. Then apply Evaporust to the entire metal area. When done I want to coat the entire trunk and undercarriage of the car. I like the KBS coating but...

You calling me stupid? Ha kidding, yup still learning.

Got it! Set cylinder 1 at TDC, had the #8 cylinder plugged in there, I was off 1 all the way around the dist. I swapped all the plug wires and that car has never fired up faster! She was wanting it haha! Thanks everyone.

Fresh about a month ago, and I did not adjust the distributor, just the wires.

Good morning, figured I’d post up since I’m sitting on the couch drinking coffee this morning. 1969 Dart 360la, 727. Ran and started fine prior to me messing with it. I replaced plug wires, and a ground from the floor shifter, car was down for about a month and I didn’t put the battery on a...

Thanks for the input, that’s why I always like posting up here. The car is just a driver, no plans ever for a show car or more

How would you all go about fixing the package tray? I am not going to be pulling the rear window, this will all be done from underneath. Just cut, rebend some 20 gauge as best I can, re weld it in, then coat the whole tray in KBS? Gonna be a b**ch from underneath.

im going to dig into over Xmas break. Anything that’s painted though is going to stay that way until further notice

I’m not super serious about selling it, more of a rant. I have a welder and have no issue cutting and fixing it. I didn’t find the rust until I got on my back in the trunk and looked at the underside of the package tray and then started stabbing around with a screw driver. Sucks, I’m sure...

It’s all over the inside of the trunk. Underneath the trunk looks clean and solid except for a few spots

69 Dart. That’s all undercoating sprayed in the trunk

Decent bit of bondo on the car has me kind of nervous but I also wouldn’t mind some patina! It’s a driver and going to stay that way. No rust in other areas that I can see. Does have the front floor boards replaced.

I’m about at the point of grabbing a new school 392 challenger.