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Thanks all, amazing response as always here! To comment on a few observations; I too find it strange that someone had removed the choke assembly altogether, we sure don’t get enough warm weather here in Stockholm! Yes I do have a 4 speed but I will definitely check the throttle linkage I...

Not really, I had the heads of and replaced the head gaskets but nothing else that would have any impact on this. I've been playing with the timing ever since getting the car but now it's at around 18 degrees initial. I've had som issues with the vaccum advance as I'm only getting about 10hg of...

Hey guys! After having installed a new intake (RPM AirGap) this winter my 340 is really difficult to start when cold. It’s an almost stock engine but slightly cammed. It has a Holley 750 DP without choke on it now and I’ve never had any issues doing cold starts before I changed the intake. Now I...

Thanks for the quick reply, appreciate it!

Hey guys, wanted to get your input on something. Just about to put my 340 back together again and when test fitting the new air gap intake I noticed this, the intake doesn’t cover the upper “horseshoe” part of the crossover. I had expected to have this sealed off by the gasket but I didn’t...

Thanks all, appreciate it! Yes it is the 4 1/2 bolt pattern on the disc brakes, I have the smaller pattern on my current drums and 14’ wheels so I will need to get new wheels anyway to clear the brakes.

Thanks, that’s what I suspected… If I need to change, would you recommend going for tubular or find a used set of stock UCAs?

And an old picture of the control arms if that helps

The disc brakes are 4 caliper, see pic. Yes, you are probably right in that I’ve got -73-6 control arms as this is not a genuine Demon but based on a late -72 straight six model. So will I be able to find ball joints that work for with these control arms?

Sorry if this issue has been addressed somewhere in the past, I tried to search for it but the main issue people seem to have with ball joints is the shaft and/or socket size! I'm in the process of doing a disc brake conversion on my -72 Demon. I bought the disc brake kit used (I believe it...

Update. Unfortunately I didn’t have any success welding a nut onto the stud. After multiple attempts I gave up as at that time the weld had stuck to the hole making it impossible to get the old stud out. So I need to drill, tried that as well but quickly realized I can’t do it with a handheld...

So I’m replacing the head gaskets in my 340 as I need to remove one of the heads anyway to get a broken exhaust stud out. Thread 'Drill exhaust manifold bolt - Remove head or not?' Drill exhaust manifold bolt - Remove head or not? I’ve got the Fel-Pro 8553s now that I believe has a compressed...

Made some progress today! That’s the problem bolt.

Another question, since I’ll probably need to replace the head gasket for the head I’m removing, would you suggest removing the other head as well and replace both gaskets? I didn’t build the engine myself and I don’t know what gasket is used and what thickness.

Thanks guys, seems like an easy decision to remove the head! I would definitely have tried the welding method but the car is parked in winter storage and I’m not allowed to use a welder in there.

As the heading suggests, after having failed to remove the bolt using a bolt extraction tool (and of course managed to snap the tool itself in the bolt!) I most likely need to drill and re-tap the upper rearmost drivers side manifold bolt. The engine is in the car and I have reasonably good...

Thanks all for your input, appreciate it! Well, got something to think about this weekend for sure! I’ll definitely consider the Dr Diff solution and will give them a call next week with my wheel specs! But you are of course right in terms of choices for wheels and tires with 14’ and SBP.

I need your advice on something. I've got drums all around on my Demon right now and I'm planning to do the "standard" disc brake conversion in the front this winter. As you can see from the pic I'm currently running all black steelies with the small 5 on 4 bolt pattern, 14´in the front and...

Thanks for the tip, do you happen to have an example product number or link I could use?

I’ve got a Holley 4150 on it and it idles well, no problem at all to have it idling at around 650-850, it’s choppy but stable! Wish I could post a video for you! Yeah definitely sounds like I need to get an air gap intake instead!:))

Thanks all for your support and ideas, appreciate it! So a few takeaways from the above seem to be: * Regardless I should increase my advance to at least around 34 total and 18-20 initial * Vaccum advance is good (if it actually works!) The challenge will be to get it to work from around 10hg...

As mention that’s where it ends up with initial at around 15, to get to 34 or so I would be at 20 initial. Not to say that’s bad…it just seemed like a lot to me!

Haven’t checked that as I don’t have a vac gauge in the car!

Well I probably can, but to get my total to 34-ish my initial will be around 20 with the current curve. Don’t seem to see much change in vacuum at idle no matter how much I advance initial

So I’ve got a recently built 340 with a Comp cam in it with 274/286 of duration and 488/391 lift. It only makes around 8-10hg of vac at idle, and I’m pretty sure there are no leaks and compression is good. I’ve got it set at around 13-15 initial and 28 total right now, which is as far as my...