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Headers are wrapped as well

Wow, that’s more than I read in highschool. Thanks for the enormous amount of information. Some I understand and some I don’t (but I got a guy who can put it in perspective) I was running 355’s at 2900 the same as you and went to 323’s. Having said that the car acted the same. Drive 1/2 hour at...

I have seen replacement antennas but not just the cable. I am on the hunt. Thanks for the tip

Hello Mopar Brothers and Sisters. I have a 71 Dart that had no radio when I bought the car. I was able to locate an am/fm radio for an A body (71’ Dart was am only). The previous owner removed the radio and CUT off the antenna wire FRaaaaaak. I am aware that there is an aftermarket fm booster...

It could be anything, I won’t know until I talk my son into crawling around for me. We won’t stop until we find it. I would still like to know how to test the switch. If the wire is located it will still blow if the switch is bad

I don’t want to agree, but I know you are right. My son is more agile (hahaha) and very electrical savvy. I think the issue is under the dash and we have to start at the panel and start following wires until the culprit presents itself. Thanks for the advice RonD

Just startin. I figured before I bend my old *** trying to find a ghost, I would start with the first step “is the switch ok”

Hello Mopar brothers and sisters, I am having an issue blowing the fuse for the instrument cluster on my Dart. “Mattax” sent be a great (simplified) drawing of the layout of the switch pins as they relate to me. I removed the headlight switch and I am looking for someone that can provide a way...

There is a hole for the shoulder belt (The original is still in the bracket on the ceiling). They were obviously replaced to a simple lap belt only at some point. Looking to upgrade to a retractable lap/shoulder combo. Thanks for the response

Hello Mopar brothers and sisters, I have a 71 Dart with bucket seats (probably was a bench seat originally). I am looking for someone with experience who has upgrading front seatbelts. What works, and what doesn’t. I am looking to go to a lap/shoulder retractable system for bucket seats To...

Thanks for the detailed step by step. If I can’t find a simple solution I will use this as a guideline to remove the dash board.

Good point. I will put that on the hunting list to check for. Thanks

BAMM. I love pictures. This info will narrow down the hunt. Thanks RonD

That is more than I read in highschool…… thanks for the extensive details. No radio (radio was removed). The car is a 440 conversion with a B&M floor shifter. The fuse that blows is the bottom of the fuse panel (going by memory). On a good note I still have park lights (just losing dash lights...

Haha, I saw what it takes to remove the cluster. I think you have to drop the steering column and remove the dash. That is far past my skill set. I will be hoping for a smaller issue. This is the last case scenario.

Looking for some assistance with dash lights. I bought the car (71Dart) a year or so ago and the dash lights didn’t work. It would blow fuses as soon as I changed them. I replaced the headlight switch and corrected it. It lasted a couple of months (driving periodically) and the dash lights are...

That is the response I was hoping for (it worked). I was happy with the new Radiator setup, but I spent a mountain of time getting it right (thanks to the input of the Mopar brother and sisterhood). I started the setup for the pusher fan and I think I can make it fit. Time will tell. Ron D

My thoughts exactly, not moving enough air at idle. It is a 26” rad and removed a copper one. It is running much cooler, but just looking for perfection and no worries about overheating and more enjoyment going for a ride

Not to create controversy, just sharing my experience. I have a 71 Dart with a 440 (475-500hp). I wasn’t comfortable with the cooling. Last winter I changed over to a ColdCase rad with large tubes, spent countless hours getting the shroud perfectly placed and sealed to the rad for maximum air...

Great information, Now I have some homework to do

After about a hour it started getting noticeable, tach fluctuating periodically, at the 2 hr mark it almost died at a stop. Ran extremely rough, sputtering until I got it over 2000 rpm for a period of time and started running better, a couple of hard acceleration’s it started running fine again.

Great info. The timing is 37. What do you think the idle speed should be. If I have to pull it off (it’s looking that way) I will do a complete rebuild. I am not sure of the life of the carb.

Great idea and worth a try

No choke. I am leaning towards dirt in the needle valve. I think I found a contact who is very good with Thermoquads in my area. If this is confirmed, I will have it rebuilt so I am not screwing around with it.

Well aren’t you bearer of good news LMAO……. Thanks for the response and it makes sense……..I didn’t want to hear it, but it makes sense

I insulated the fuel lines from the carb past the headers.

I am not a mechanic but mechanically minded and looking for an understanding and solution. The car (had it about a year) has a 440 with 460-500hp, Carter 850 carb, with a Mopar Purple cam 296/.557. Overview….. Car fires up and runs nice. I had always noticed after going for a drive it idles...

Timing is advanced. Looking into the pulley concept.

Great feedback. I have most of the list covered, except for the last paragraph……. breaking down the engine is past my skill set. “ overdrive the fan”…… explain…….. us a smaller pulley ………. Rev the engine at idle……… tks Ron D

It will keep rising