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That's a good question I didn't think about. Well, for now I'm driving without the light bulb.

Welcome! This Scamp looks very very clean! You couldn't get one for less than 20k here in Switzerland in this condition! There was one for sale for 30 grands so 18k seems to be a fair price, but it depends on your personal situation. Greetings from Switzerland

Damn this thing is very hot

@Mattax Thank you for your reply. Yes, it came with the optional "heavy wiring" / the 65amp Alternator. I've looked at the pics @Bugman sent and yes, my Valiant came originally with the interlock system aswell. I think the easiest way is to just unplug the bulb from the cluster aswell the...

I'm sure this topic was started like thousands of times before but I would like confirmation if I have the decoding right. I would like to find out the date when my Valiant was built (or at least planned to be built). The VIN is VL41C4F 221369, so what we need to know here is the 6th digit which...

Since everyone posts their Valiants, here's a recent pic of mine (I hope 4th Gen counts aswell)

Hey guys, I have a tiny problem with my seat belt buzzer system thing. It was already faulty when I've bought the car. When I sit in the car and turn the ignition, the buzzer and buzzer light goes on, so far so good. Now, If I put on the seat belt, the buzzer won't go off. Because I didn't care...

Well, the Valiant wasn't special back then. American cars were special here in Switzerland in the past, but even my father looked disappointed when I've showed him my first american car. He said "why didn't you get something nice like a Camaro or a Mustang" like dude, I'm just 24 and got like...

Hello! How much do you need to ship it to Switzerland?

I am looking for 2 years now for a model car or a model kit of a 1974-1975 Plymouth Valiant. I'm the owner of a '74 Valiant and I want an exact model car of my real Valiant (an exact copy). It doesn't matter if the color isn't matching because I build model kits myself. Does someone know about...

My turn signal lever knob is missing since I've bought my Valiant 2 years ago. I now want to replace the knob with a new or used one but I surprisingly couldn't find one...? I have now searched for hours on the web but could only find the whole lever. Because I don't want to disassemble the...

I've added some extra sealant tape so this might be the problem. Im gonna remove it and see that happens, thank you!

My temp gauge didn't work, so I have replaced the dash voltage regulator which made my temp gauge move again, thankfully, but when I started the engine, the temp gauge went up to 250° and back to 0° when the engine was warmed up. I've thought the temp sender was bad, so I have replaced this one...

Oh uhm i have no idea what you guys have in the US or how to compare our radio signals. Before DAB and DAB+, we have had UKW which means "Ultrakurzwelle". Before UKW, there was KW for Kurzwelle, MW for Mittelwelle and LW for Langwelle (Short-/ Medium/Middle-/ Long "lanes". Those were the...

This was one of my questions above. I was not sure if this will work or damage something. But yes, imma gonna try this method aswell. I might need a new speaker anyways because the original one fell apart into many pieces as you can see.

It actually is a '74 Valiant. The radio might have been replaced due to this car was built for the Swiss/European market. It was built in Newark, Delaware but shipped to Switzerland and first registered in 1975.

Oh uhm I heard this was an option but thanks for your hint!

Hey guys I've recently tried to bring my radio back to life. It has never worked since I've bought my car back in 2022. The in line fuse together with the holder on the main wire was melted, so I got a new set of fuses, aswell as the wire block connectors for the radio - speaker connection. The...

Hahaha same here lol. Hope you got your problem fixed by now :)

Damn that is an absolute nightmare! Good to hear nothing bad happened. That's one of many reasons why I'm glad to live in central europe. We don't have those big boys here. The only danger noodles we know here are the adders.

Okay my friends. Thank you very much for your messages! I've gone the difficult way and removed the bench. I was able to open the trunk from inside. I've read it is very common to "loose" the pin in the lock mechanism - same situation for me. The pin is lost, so this caused my lock to not open...

I've tried afterwards, doesn't make any difference... But thanks for the hint!

--- UPDATE --- I've driven for some 100 miles and the smell is completely gone. It looks like the smell was caused by the restored cooling system. I've read/heard about this being normal. Thank you guys for your answers!

My trunk lock didn't open properly for months, but now it's completely gone. I can turn the key but there's no indication about the lock mechanism stuff turning aswell; there's no resistance. I've read it's possible to open the trunk from the inside. My problem is, my car, 1974 Plymouth Valiant...

It is like that. I've found the right relay, thanks to @townsend The wires are wrapped and leading straight to the ammeter (or C13 12BK at least). What confuses me is, there's a fuse block on the chart, but I haven't found one...? It looks like there's nothing in between... You've...

Thank you very much for the part number! It actually helped me identifying the part.

Ah yes, I wanna tell someting about the ammeter itself to bring at leat this topic to an end. As you know, my ammeter melted on the backside, probably because of the stuts that got loose over the years. This probably caused a bad connection, and then to overheating. I've ordered a replacement...

Okay my friend, I have done some research but my results are not what I was expecting... I'm actually a bit disappointed. As a reminder: We are looking at a '74 built car which was exported/imported to Switzerland, so I'm not sure about some modifications done by the Swiss... First of all, yes...

Oh damn I totally forgot about that! I'm sorry, I'm gonna look for it asap.

I've had a "similar" problem My original Ammeter was loose and didn't work properly, so it became hot and the wire terminals started to melt. It ended with a failed ammeter and voltage regulator and an overcharged battery with 18V. Pull the cluster and check for some damage on the wires. Then...