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Cool, I think you will be happy.

Of those two I vote xe256h, the xe250h will be too small, IMO

OK buying it

Interested

Run it, tune it, lets find out what it can do.

++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs, I have had bad experiences with Helicoil, but Timesert are the name of the sleeves. They are amazing but are very expensive.

Best way I found for me: Spin the engine, watch exhaust #1 open, pass crank TDC mark, watch intake open, stop 10-40 degrees(helps to have good markings) before TDC 0 mark comes around, set distributor rotor pointing at #1 on cap. I used the 40 degree suggestion of another member on this forum...

This does appear to be a 5.7 hemi based on the valve covers, and doesn't appear to have any spark plug wires(later model), my 05 look like this but does have 16 plug wires going across the intake. This is a 2008? Could be MDS? What vehicle is it in?

Awesome!! Hopefully my 318 will be up and running soon too. It has just been too hot to install it here.

Don't know much about procomp heads, but it certainly sounds like the "machinist" never actually checked the install height of those springs, and they are binding.

Awesome!! thanks for sharing.

Right A lot of good info in this thread, on both sides of the argument. I always thought of it as a sound thing, if you are running a full exhaust system pick the one that sounds good to you. I personally like the sound of an x so that is what I went with, and I don't think it weighs a lot...

My 2.76 open 7.25 came apart behind my stock 318... but it may have been one too many burnouts, which are really hard on it... ;)

Sounds like a solid plan, and should make some decent power. Not sure how much it is to have the manifold drilled, but if it is not much, then just run it. Not hard to upgrade intakes later if you really feel the need, and by then you can compare to see if there is real benefit.

I have thought about walking away, but come on, in the end it is just too fun, even through all the heartache. I took a break, to get more secure financially and start a family and what not but I am ready to get back at it!(Currently building my engine)

I really don't think it is necessary to notch the bores either, just pointing out that they did do that in that particular build.

I only know what I read in this article. From the article: "Though the 2.02/1.60 valves clear a 318s bores with ease, we machined out the combustion-chamber walls near the head gasket line adjacent to the valves to minimize shrouding...The idea is to enhance flow..."

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/113-0304-318-small-block-build/

A LD4B for 5$ in mint condition may be considered stealing in the Mopar world... haha It is a good intake. I performs really well in a moderate build and has smaller ports than the 340/360 intakes, which makes it great for 273/318 builds. But... it depends on what you mean mild, but I...

Wow, ok. Bit harsh there, I never thought installing a 4 degree advanced cam in a straight up position would get a "never in a million years" or "That's the stupidest thing I ever heard" response. I have read you can usually go 4 degree off the cam card either way for tuning. And that 4...

For example if the OP chose to run the lunati voodoo 10200700 then wouldn't it be better to remove the 4 degree advance on his engine combo?

Well by older I meant lower compression, as in most people like to over cam there low compression stock motor, so built in advance would help DCR. So if you are building a higher compression engine you can remove that advance, and that should help.

Interesting, I believe the reason that there is a 4 degree advance designed into the "centerline" of most cams is to increase DCR on most older engines. So would you agree that at least taking that out and installing them "straight up" on a fresh 10:1 may help things? But yes you are correct...

Do not open them up IMO. They already flow decent and will require more intake work if you go crazy on them. I know it is easy to focus on "port matching" but that is not what is important.

I have had bad luck with all my PCV set ups(cheap), where the leak oil and won't seal up.... I bought a billet aluminum PCV somewhere a while back(But can't remember where and can't find it) and plan to use it with a WIX #42997 or something close on my current build.

Awesome build. Very similar to my build except I am going for a bit more performance 2000-6000 RPM. Ok on the cam, it has a built in 4 degree advance to make up for low compression engines, so installing it 4 degrees retarded(from factory) or what would be center will help. It may help to...

Can't wait to see a vid, and hear how it performs. Awesome build.

Sorry I misunderstood, well depending on the bottom end plans, yes 400-650 for head would be a stock rebuild or maybe a valve size upgrade on a 318 head you already have. Some porting can be done using the guide in this forum, but to pay someone would easily double that price. I personally...

I don't think the ports are a big deal with the requirements you described. It is the compression that could be troublesome.

His build is in the 400-650 range, he shouldn't be looking at 10:1 pistons anyway... haha "Bolt on"s will get pretty decent results, maybe not some magic 275 hp number but who care if it is "quick" and fun to drive.