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Really they are all good. I'd go on each vender website and see the difference (BMM-10225 or ...226 or ...228 ) but as for which brand? I'd say B&M is probably your best choice. TCI is good too. I have a Cheeta full reverse manual valve body and have been with the results. I've never heard how...

use an *ss ton of blue RTV. hahaha

ooohhh that supercharger.... FAP FAP FAP FAP FAP FAP FAP FAP lol

@megajoltman - Thanks and no mine is not in factory position for better balance on the scales. Like I said theyre easy to put in plenty of room. can reach every plug from up top. its just kind of confusing assembly since they're in pieces. as for TTI, I was going to fo that route but when youre...

sexy.

@inkjunkie -I have a 451 stroker (400 lowdeck) with 516 heads. These fit good however, if you do order them make sure you order per block. I mean order the madog low deck headers for low deck or rb headers for the rb motor. I hear they do NOT interchange like rb headers on low deck, again thats...

I have a 11:1 compression 451 stroker (400) with the 516's stock heads they are 73.5 cc's not 78 like most believe, and my motor made 453 hp on one inch manifolds. So yea, they are probably the best closed chamber heads chrysler ever made. 906's were the best open chambers.

@Paul Smart - They fit with auto and 4speeds. the install procedure is just different while the actual pipe design remain the same. Here are a couple top pics. sorry if they are hard to see. I sprayed them while they were in the car. I got reaaaaally lazy and didn't want to take them back out to...

@abodyjoe I bought them. they came uncoated. They fit like a champ. with 2" primes and 3.5" collectors. Easy to install. Took me a a few hours to figure out how to put them in since they are pieced together. But now that I know how they install I am able to put them in and out in under 5 mins...

where'd you see them on the site? i cant seem to find them.

Fnally got the 451 rolling right this fine spring we've been having lately. I was thinking it might be time for a cheap upgrade. so has anyone ever used 1.7 rockers? any limitations to using a really high ratio? and has anyone ever used these before (Link below)? or does anyone know of any other...

nah youre good. I bet you can get another 100k miles.

where do you get redline one? I did a google search and actual cluster hardware came up. nothing with the inserts.

It sounds like a lot, but in the end, its costs about the same *IF* youre starting from scratch.

I'm in the film industry and "LED 1080p at 240hz." is the industry standard as of now. No smart tv crap, that what my laptop is for. Buuut go for what gives you the best price.

if you want bigger, check out maddog headers

I tried a google search, even tried nhra.com, but couldn't find the answer. Any drag guys out there that can list the basic classes used in the late 50s/early 60s, and what they mean? Like A/D, AA/D, B/ D, etc, etc. and what each class signifies and how do I figure out what label my car would go...

Im looking for that right now... but dont have the money... CURSE YOU CHASE BANK! why can't you just automatically replenish yourself...

I had a similiar when i dropped in my BB. All I can say is just look at the my mopar wiring diagram and go wire by wire. What was causing my battery to short our was the radio circuit and the firewall 3way pigtail connectors.

just do a 451... bare minimum performance, you're looking at 1 hp per cube. Thats using the worst chrysler heads and manifolds an eddy performer and 750 eddy carb with 11-1 comp and 509 purple cam. if you were to do a better build and went with alum heads, an 850 holley carb and some fat *ss...

just go with lokar. a bit pricey but well worth the mobility and placment when headers are involved. http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/trans-dipsticks/trans-dipstick-pages/trans-dipsticks.html

Daytona, only because you never hear anything about it. Just about the Superbird.

I had a 451 strker built and dynoed and it took 3 months. so a long block month half, maybe 2 months.

http://www.dart-mouth.com/

a v16 cut in half?

just do process of elimination. 3 things to make an engine run, fuel compression spark. ok so you have fuel, check. you have spark? obviously if its backfires through carb. so that leaves compression. now youve checked ignition timing over and over again, good great, but have you check your cam...

really? a new Dodge/Fiat Dart... http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/dodge-brings-back-dart-italian-flair-143028811.html its based off of this... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfa_Romeo_Giulietta_(2010)

i had these type of manifolds before i got maddog. i never had to mill or mod them in any way. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Dodge-Plymouth-C-body-Big-Block-Exhaust-Manifolds-/330651869365?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfc6320b5#ht_3068wt_899

http://www.bigblockdart.com/forum/showthread.php?9523-73-dart-with-b-body-headers....&highlight=78030 http://www.bigblockdart.com/forum/showthread.php?17296-Hedman-headers-and-mini-starter&highlight=78030 honestly I would just save up and by a set of maddog headers. they're 2in primes and 3.5...

ok thanks. now what about doing the 8.8 swap? i know there's a bunch of threads on them in here, but just looking for opinions on quality and ease of 8.8 swap. not looking for "how to's" since there are so many other threads.