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If anyone is after one, I just got two more. Had to order some other Car Tech books so had them ship me two spares to minimize the ever increasing shipping costs. These will cost about the same as Amazon, around $36 with shipping using Media Mail.

Please check that bottom lever to be sure it is the short one. The long one will cause you lots of issues unless you redrill it.

Here is a shot of AAs 340 setup. It is dead right on.

May be the same kind of rod. We modified a 2 barrel one to work with the 340 bracket and the other two barrel parts we had.

Poor weld job but it was hurried; you can see how much was added to fit the spacer and the Air Gap.

One angle

For sure the Holley bracket is needed and you may have to raise the manifold bracket to allow for the extra height caused by the Air Gap. We run the same setup on my brother in laws car and in fact, one of the images in my book is it. Here is the four barrel lever and the two barrel lever...

If it was a factory 340 car, it should be correct IF it has the right lever on the valve body.. Please measure it from its pivot to the center when the rod drops in it. That will tell you if it still has the 4 barrel one or a 2 barrel one.

Yes but you likely have two barrel parts on it. Two barrel parts may not interchange with that four barrel top rod they show. If you buy it all, you are ok but it is hard to mix and match throttle pressure parts from various years and engine combinations. Does that make sense? Sorry if not.

What year are your other parts? That part you circled is very specific and if your others are way off, it may not work. And if they are 2 barrel parts installed, it will be wrong. You need to be sure you have the four barrel bracket on the valve body component that sticks out of the case. :):)

Don't do it like the right image.

Post a better shot of your set up. Let me see if I have some spare parts on the basement shelves.

Please remember, it is not technically a kickdown rod. it is the throttle pressure rod and without it, you are driving the car with line pressure set at idle. This is terribly tough on the internals.

I think I read once they cut one particular car's exhaust sound level down a dB or two in the 100 db range. So I guess you could say they reduce noise levels somewhat!

Thanks all for the support and kind words. It was a lot of work but great fun putting it all together (along with the help from so many).

Thanks JOS51700! My cost to build them is approaching $800 each. The parts are almost $480 and the labor is $250 and shipping is the rest. Since the last election occurred, prices for all of it skyrocketed. Shipping, labor, and parts especially. And boxes to ship them in!

KC, MO must have been less prone to folks having sticky fingers! :):)

EX: Stock 69 340 tailpipes

I agree that this may happen on some pipes/mufflers OMM. It is important to note that most any of the pipes where the clamp pinches them have a couple of slots in the pipe (and mufflers do too, see photo) so it/they can be clamped tightly without crushing the pipe. Hack saw two 3/4" long slots...

No never. You may need to move or adjust. NEVER weld exhaust pipes together if you ever plan to do anything with any of it.

So true Chris! Every time I hear a new Mustang or a Challenger growling at me, I smile and remember how long ago that cool option got started and what company did it!

GM upper management stopped it due to some exhaust issues associated with Chevrolet leaving plugs out of trunk pans (so I am told) and PA prohibited the VOE GTO sales there.

As a side note, Pontiac built approximately 233 GTOs from November 69 till Jan 1970 with this option. These cars are very rare and even more valuable with this functioning muffler option. Here is a photo of the real things and these are worth thousands and thousands of dollars.

This is the Pontiac version

I have a GM style Hy-Cee fruit can hidden under the driver's side fender. It is evacuated by a one from the carburetor and has a check valve inline so it is "fully" evacuated at all times the engine is running. In the cigarette lighter area, I have the switch that looks like thelighter but pulls...

No to the first question and not likely to the second as they are no real different than a stock muffler swapping to typical chambered muffler. A tougher and switchable sound is one reason and the lack of resonance is another and extreme silence when you want it is another. There is 10 dBA...

This is a similar set, internally. Top set is closed, quiet, and bottom set is open, loud.

Every now and then I get to brag about my Vacuum Operated Exhaust (VOE) mufflers I built (and am still building). I just got done with six pair for Pontiacs and I test them on my '69 340 Barracuda 340-S. While my set was off for testing these others, I shot a few photos of them to share...

That cam will make your car feel sluggish with a stock 340 converter; often they were looser rated than the numbers you shared. Talk to some experts about getting a good one made. (Or you could use Rhoads lifters on that cam with a 340-style converter. That will help it immensely. )

Some ballooning maybe?