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I won't be there but I will have a trailer full of pieces and parts there. Any thing from a standard bore 70 340 block to center line wheels to chrome to valve covers just talk to John he will be there from Florida

We plan on having a swap lot there this year. In case anyone looking I'm sending a 1970 standard bore 340 block up. With a load of other goodies.

a set of umbrella valve seals work last a good while also

bump

ok guys im in the market for the rear corner trim piece for a 64 dart convertible left side (driver side) it's the one up by the window it bring's the rest of the trim together..... fair market value .... i no that there is one out there some where the dartman

well my friend you really haven't told us the whole story. is it a /6 choke or a old style 318 the little manifold heat raiser that hooks to the choke .. need some more details ...... the dartman

when it was head time for me ... i was at the a swap meet a guy there had w7's for sale he went to w9's 1500$ later i went home with what i wanted heartland sharp rockers stainless valves intake ..... if you figure the cost of valves ,new seats ,springs and all the machine work ... plus all...

havent missed a show there in the last 10 years or more ... always nice

2or 3 of them out in the barn to bad your in pa id fix you right up

dont forget the dot5 much better than all the other dot3/4 silicone base it dont absorb moisture like the other fluids .... water/moisture is brake fluid worst enemy

i use and additive to pump gas boost juice gives me 110 for 6 to 7 $ for 15 gals of high test.... you get it on the internet great stuff just got 5 cases and yes it does work

i use a fuel additive call boost juice 1 gal to 15 of gas its about 6or 7 $ a gal on the internet .... i run a 11.5 to one small block in my dart on the street no problems 528 / 284 purple shaft , 391 gears ,850 holly, 3000 stall,904 trans.....want to fast mash on the gas

the first thing i would do is get rid of the rebuilt master cyc if you got it from some like advance discount or auto zone there junk ( only new for me ) the master cyc in the brains of your brakes ..... i've put as many as 5 o6 of those junk things on the same car and none of them has worked...

mosser has just what you need for like 325 $ ship to the door been there done all that .... by the time you have spent trying this and that you could have what you need and on to something else .. ive tryed old van axles ,cbody axles. cut resplined .... what happens is the hardness is not...

need to fine some concrete to launch on asphalt isnt the best for some grip .. and have your buddy ck the frt end of the duster pic looks like it toes way in on launch

just add a thicker head gasket ...or head gasket shims i believe there called .. i watch my machinist do it to a small block chevy ..the heads where studded though .. i dont no if that made a difference or not .. worth the time to ck out though

i order and got mine from dacco 1/2 the cost of most converters 300$ for a 3500 been driving the piss out of it for a year now no problems ... took about a week for them to build it and send it to me ... just my 2 cents worth

no sure dont i have a groveland addy but live out in the bay lake area not much out here

there are some things in life it dont pay to be cheap on .....in any case anti balloon plate unless you have more converters an transmissions than needed ..... take a look in the section exploding torqueflites

some big c body car maybe even a /6 4x4 truck the one i have is real close to 273 /294 gear ratio

better off finding right backing plates 7 1/4 backing plates dont fit been there done that the rest is the same .... hosing flange is different 4 hole verse 5 hole 5 hole is bigger not by much ... just better to do it right the first time

do you have timing cover off ? if ya do put sealant around it shove it in .... take something and bell the end in the bottom of the hole ..........wont pull out that way .......

sounds like to me you need to pull it apart an take a look ... axles must come out those bearing can be hard to see ..if ok put some grease in them before installing ...keeps them from running dry till gear lube gets there ... the center section only three bearing's in it the pinion bearing...

start it up pull a plug wire ..nope not it... go to next one find the hole that its in, narrow your search. flex plate cracks can be hard to spot if up by the crank .

look into a dacco i got one for a 904 32 to 35 hundred stall drive like normal till till you need the converter price around 300$ .... its been in the car and working great for a little over a year with no issues what so ever .... i no not baby it ....i didnt built for that ... mash the gas...

had same issues i adjusted 52 ways till sunday still dont have it right ... mine shifts fine just wont start in park or neutral .... even called teck line ..he said small adjustments till right ok still adjusting still lifting the hood to start also pain in the a@@

how about the little metal tab that the brake light switch push's on when the brake peddle is released ...ck it with a test light see if the switch is working ,

well i ve had a couple issues with what i thought might be the high side of temps in traffic living in florida its hot 90's to low 100's .... i took a /6 water pump pulley an put it on ,no fan clutch switch to 6 blade stainless steel fan 190 all day long in traffic or the cruise at old town...

most likely problem is out of alignment get out a straight edge an make sure your pullys are inline ..... new belts old belts dont really matter all that much... you have some thing out of alignment ....

528/ 528 284 mp shaft fel pro head gaskets heads cut 90 thousands intake side cut 30 cyc pressure 190 static compression now if i could only get it hook up :)