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weekend bump. still looking. Again, to be clear, on the '72 driver's fender, just looking for regular steel fender, not glass. Would consider a pair especially if local, or depending on shipping costs.

Just as it says. looking for front and/or rear fiberglass bumpers to fit on a '70-'72 Dart. With 'glass brackets preferably. Prefer '70 single light rear style, but would consider '71-'72 style. Good condition, no cracks. If you were local, I'd consider a fiberglass hood too (flat only). Also...

PM sent.

http://claspics.com/618/866407

Picking it clean? Why not? I hope the 340 at least got saved.

Hey, he gave it over 24 hours to sell on the internet, what more do you expect?! LOL

I'd definitely be interested in talking about this, but I simply have no place to keep such a car right now, so there's no point in me even looking at it and wanting it! This car deserves a nice place to store it year round.

If this was the ad http://swmi.craigslist.org/cto/2167499873.html it looks like it's been deleted already. The Google summary for this ad includes part of the description you quoted, so I'm pretty sure that was it.

Received my Dart connectors today, look good, nice job. Can't wait to weld these in next spring. Thanks!

Would be interested if you end up making these to fit a Dart.

Is that the same Demon as in the first pic? It made it all the way to PA after going to WA? Looks great, love the color too.

Cool, thanks for taking the time to write this. Sounds like I'll be on the right track now. Thanks for all the advice. :thumbup:

RiceNuker: The Chassis Black I refer to is just the Eastwood Chassis Black paint... look it up on their website. Maybe it doesn't need to be the Eastwood, I'm just going based on a recommendation. I have no idea. I'm still going to use the rust encapsulator on the sandblasted underbody though...

I should have been more specific, sorry. I haven't read the Eastwood info yet myself, but he said epoxy primer, let it dry a little, then used the Eastwood chassis black. Not the rust encapsulator, that may be different, as that's supposed to be over the bare metal. I still think the rust...

After asking 67Dart440GT more specifically about what he did, I think I'm going to to with the epoxy primer on the rest of what I have to do as well, rather than just the straight product on top of metal. With the Eastwood product on top of that (on areas that will be hidden anyway). This is a...

Milwaukee area. I've only been here for a few years though, was from Rockford IL area before that. Really wishing spring would hurry up, this whole winter thing is for the birds! I'd rather be working on cars than typing about it!

Right, exactly, it's what I've said from my first post. IF it has not been documented. If it has been, I have no problem with buying a car using these products. IF it's been documented. If not, no. I also mentioned that none of this is appropriate for a concours restoration.

That's why documentation is so critical no matter how you do it. And why I'd rather buy a car that's all original if what has been done is not documented, as you just never know what someone has tried to cover up with undercoating. It's not the specific product that's usually the issue...it's...

This is just a little blurb from a Porsche site about POR-15. Despite what the company claims, I would never paint or apply any product directly over rust. It's not good to apply directly to smooth "fresh" metal, but properly prepped sandblasted metal it should adhere well to. If you're just...

I can't wait to try the Eastwood product. It's true that the POR hardens really fast. I haven't figured out a way yet to get it to stay good. In my experience, once that can is open, either use the whole thing or throw it away. Not very cost-effective that way. I found it really easy to cover...

I know, we agree. Someone would have to be a hack to think otherwise. There's a lot of hacks, to be sure. Then, it just becomes an issue of what technology to use to preserve.

Right, exactly. Which is also why you have to follow specific methods to top coat it. Sounds like you have a good handle on things. Not sure there is really a wrong answer here. You've brought up some good advantages/disadvantages of the products. Each has their place.

That's exactly what I said. Remove the problem, and document that fact. These products are to protect the good... that's the proper use of the products in a restoration: preservation. There is no issue with using these products if used for that purpose.

Not if you remove the problem then take good photos to show what was under there (documentation is key). The point of products like those is to preserve, so the same issues don't happen again. Today, we have better products than what the factory used to prevent rust. Nothing at all wrong with...

POR-15, but I think I'm going to try the Eastwood Encapsulator paint because several people now have told me they like it better than the POR-15. I hope the lid is easier to open than the POR-15 one! You can paint over POR-15, just read the data sheet, follow the directions and it's not an...

I agree with the conversion being really easy, if it's something you end up wanting to do. I had 3-on-the-tree on the '68 Adventurer I once had, and installed a Hurst floor shifter in just a couple hours myself. P.S. I'm not recommending you do that, just saying if you do, it's easy. Try to get...

If they're blue, in good shape, and are correct for '70 Dart, let me know, with a pic please. Maybe I'll come down and pick up more from ya this weekend if you're around, if the visors are what I need. Mine actually look good but the passenger's one is sort of borked.

What color are the Dart sunvisors? Is the filler tube unvented style ('70 non-CA)?

K-Mart bought Sears in 2005, but they called the conglomeration "Sears Holdings Corporation". The same parent company also owns Lands' End.

Bought a CNC cut "Swinger" garage sign from Scott and it's great! Not only is the sign fantastic, but it was packed well and he shipped it very quickly. Thanks again!