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And 7 years later, complete! You are welcome!!

No problem. It was all about the profile and that little tab that covers the edge.

My Barracuda is a custom color based on a 1980's Dupont Imron color called Dark Firethorne Metallic. When I had it repainted, they took a camera shot from under the trunk lid and made a basecoat/clearcoat version of that color. To me it is a little more red than the orginal Imron color...

Just as an FYI, the correct emblems are reproduced. http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4072

Nevernind, as noted in the discussion above, the hole spacing is different.

My understanding is that the 340S or 383S emblems replaces the "fish" emblem under the Barracuda script.

Just out of curiosity, have you looked at the back of the fender to verify that they have been welded shut? Many times you find that they are just filled with filler and you can get a sharp awl or other small wire or drill and open the holes back up. Even if they were welded, I doubt seriously...

From looking at your photos, it sure looks like there is some sort of trim already screwed in place. Lift up the edge of your carpet. There is a short stainless trim piece that slides under the edge of the sill plate and then attaches to where those screws are at the bottom of that panel. Did...

I worked as a service writer for a dealership for a couple of years out of college. Many times we would get older cars (say 5 or so years old) that would have a bad alternator. After pricing the dealer item, then the better aftermarket rebuild, many would INSIST that we install an AUTOZONE...

Then you have a salvaged car. Most likely wrecked really bad and pieced together using a '68 car as a donor.

Ok, found another discussion: Without the fender tag, broadcast/build, sheet or some other factory documentation there is no way to tie the vin# to the so#. The body is not stamped with the vin# it's stamped with a sales order number. So even if you find a correct vin#, you can not prove it...

Found on another discussion: The body has the last six digits (of the vin) displayed in several spots. Inner fenders, top of radiator support, and rear trunk deck support. *EDIT: looks like this may be for 1969 and newer** See next post.

Just out of curiosity, you mentioned that the dash was most likely now a '68 dash- So, does the dash still have the vin plate on the top of the 68-69 style dash frame? Do you have a title to match that? Is it possible you have a very early 68? I know my '68 has a number under the trunk seal...

Funny, I had the same situation. Inside of the gas tank was flaking rust. The sock was dry rotted and gone. It would suck rust up the fuel line and fill up the steel fuel filter (which we couldn't see in). It would choke it out. When you stopped, the rust would settle down on the bottom of...

Measure both sides. Look at your front end right height. Determine if you want to raise up the low side, or drop the high side. Also keep in mind if this has been a long term issue, you may have a broken torsion bar mount on the low side. There have been many that have found out the...

Mine was located under the springs of the rear seat cushion. It was completely intact with just a little rust mark from the springs. If your car hasn't been disassembled before, you may get lucky and find it there.

The flasher itself is a relay. Turns the lights on and off. When you get your new flasher unit, get the electronic version with the loud click. It will be much more steady and easier to hear.

By the way, left hole- speedo cable. Right hole, washer hoses/grommet, or just grommet if you don't have a foot pump.

Use my assembly photos on my website for reference! Keep in mind that there were several holes that varied per option. Tach and/or performance gauge got another hole than the base models. They were drilled in a dimple to the left of those holes . 67, 68, 69 drilled either the top dimple or...

It is interesting that it has a 1969 150 Speedometer in it. Must have had issues with it at some point. Good looking car!

For dirty bolts with little rust and assorted small parts, you can get a 1 gallon can of carburetor cleaner (soak) from your local parts store that even has a little basket in there to help retrieve the parts. Soak your small parts overnight, remove, wipe, and let dry. Makes them look very very...

Still sounds like a fuel delivery problem. A couple of thiings I haven't heard you discuss... 1. Condition of fuel tank and fuel filter- My barracuda had a rusty tank. It would run great until the fuel filter clogged with rust. Let it sit, the rust would setting in the filter and run until it...

Not an early A, but shows you what the Grant wheel looks like. I have the foam grip one that I dyed to match the interior. Seems to be holding up well. This is the 15" diameter one. I'm usin the Plymouth center horn button. They offer a Mopar one also.

Wow! Great find. Looks like it is in pretty good shape! Nice to see another similar looking car with great options being restored!

What is your spacing on your wheels? I don't see a link or picture, are these factory steel wheels or aftermarket?

If you want the ultimate protection, powder coat it!

Depends on what you need. Start here: http://www.evanswiring.com/

When I had my engine out they were real close to touching. Once the weight was put back, everything cleared fine. I do use the C-body tie rod ends with a V8 '73 center link and large sector steering box.

Most wheels you have to pry the horn button off of them. They are pressed on a fiber circle that serves as the horn switch (there is a spring under the button). Then three screws or so and they come off... then you have to pull the Grant wheel adapter that is under the steering wheel. That...

IF you are talking about the F fitting... unless your car is a show car and you need the original part, go to your local autoparts store and buy a vacuum F that is about the same size. It won't have the screw hole, but I was able to stretch the tubes enough to catch the F on the edge of the...