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Returning after a long hiatus..Now looking to sell two project cars in hawaii. 69 GT conv. 318/904 and a 67 formula S fastback with 69 340/727. Both have 83/4 sure grips. At one time there were a few guys posting from oahu...would much rather link up with them than to deal with craigslist...

many thx inertia, ggrabbed two fiber oil plug washers from napa...worked like a charm

Found this one on rockauto...AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 9A6 More Info AdvanTech only 4 threads

inertia... what is pan plug gasket? for an oil pan plug? I'm surprised others haven't had this problem. anyone got the correct part#

did mopar make 2 different length 3 prong nss? wiring is good and switch turns on lights when out of vehicle (69 dart). when in the trans, I gotta back it out 4 turns before lights come on...way too lose and will leak. part#s please or correct year and make for the shorter one

fooling with these damn back up lights again...is it normal to get fluid inside the nss electrical connector...

mechanical fan

69 dart 318 (15yr old rebuild) overheated...towed it home...trying to diagnose the problem...right answer is replace all three to ensure no more problems doing that but also want to learn...so heres what happened overheated at hiway speed, no chatter from pump refilled with water...ran it...

no lights jumped the two female conectors...and lights come on...wiring should be good replaced nss and got nothing...grounding function has no issues...starts fine only in park &neutral thought it could linkage adjustment, but they don't briefly come on when slowly moving into and out of...

simple but tempermental...just like the other girl in my life:D owned the dart for 25yrs...married for 18...both have caused more than their fair share of headaches but i'll never trade either of them for a newer model

well...that was too easy all I did was disconnect and re connect the flasher when I threw the toggle instead of only the front workin...this time right front and rear flashed then I noticed that inaddition to movin up and down, the toggle arm seemed to be spring loaded...meaning I...

del, life got in the way...sorry for not replying sooner. brake lights and rear turn signals both work but only the fronts flash when I throw the toggle goin back under the dash using one of your old posts where you described the circuit to see if any of the wiring is loose

yep...sure did...just goes to show you...new aint always better... i'll put the old 1157s back in 2nite and see what happens

getting 69 dart ready for state safety inspection and hazard lights acting funny...1st they didn't work...replaced flasher and passfront worked (coincidence perhaps but it was a new bulb). put old flasher back on and both fronts flash but not the rear. tail, break and turn work fine...

ok, i'll call comp and talk to a tech to see what they recommend..................as for the heads, gonna call hughes and get a shipping quote, even if its $200 they will still be $500 cheaper than a set of eddys

I'm new at this...so are saying that if I keep the factory heads (no cracks)... a good valve job and stiffer spring are a must... thx for keeping the thread alive

his magnumswap blog got me started... so would this thing be really sluggish w/o a 2200 stall...willing to spend the money just never ran anything other than a stock converter...assume atrans cooler would be required right?

thx 4 the tip but I'm in Hawaii and shipping is crazy...gonna go with a local speed shop for most...$300 for an airgap and $800 ea 4 the eddys...not too bad considering no shipping if they come via their stock order every 4-6wks.. since I'm a noob, I really want to avoid mail order tech lines

so, your sayin the so called out of the box benefit aint so...and should have a machine shop go through them this is gonna be my very first build...found a 2003 360 w/only 50K on the bottom end. gonna get a good camera so I can post pics as I stumble my way through this plenty of...

I was thinking about this one... http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=647&sb=0 same duration as the one in the hrm build...but it may be a bit much...no two opinions of "streetable" are the same if you know what I mean this is a little smaller...

looking for cam ideas for the following build...early stages of planning so still open to various bolt on combos gonna build on a stock bottom end...eddy heads, air gap, 670 holley avenger,tti or dougs. in a 69 dart with 3.55s...904 will get a comlete rebuild and will pick converter...

ill check..

yeah he knows elec...was helpin me yesterday...hopin he will be on line soon

ok now I'm at a complete loss. installed coil, dizzy, ballast and ecu from a running car...grounded ecu to batt...and still no spark jumper from starter relay to coil + and nada. 12.2v at coil + and -...shouldn't there be a large drop?? gotta get it fixed or its gonna get towed

im no mechanic so got the wife convinced I need 2 daily drivers so she doesn't have 2 share the minivan=P~ can you pls explain how the pick up coil works in the circuit since I had no spark coming from the coil tower, I automatically assumed the problem must be somewhere from the coil...

had to replace the pickup coil 1yr ago been runnin fine 4 5000 miles the neutral safety switch wiring cap wasn't getting a good conection a few day back...but its turning over now so that cant be it I can pull the dizzy out of the cuda and try it...did not know that the reluctor...

oh its a problem alright...:violent1: had a spare coil and ballast but still no spark ran to oreillys [hate that place] real quick picked up a$30 Chinese ecu...still nospark but it seemed to cure the votage drop at the coil...batt was down 2 12.4 but I was getting 12.1 at the coil...

meant 2 say all spark checks were by jumping relay...volt readins were with key in run position...sorry 4 the confusion

I'm by myself so jumped the relay for all of my volt measurements...spark check was from coil wire jumper from batt + to coil+ will tell me what? not bein a smart @$$...just no internet where she broke down...thx steve

electronic ignition wth stock coil and ecu. was runnin fine but now has no spark. 12v at battery 10.8v at ecu side of ballast...8.7 other side and 8.5v at coil. what should it read new ballast and coil from othr daily driver...ecu is grounded runnin out a daylight and don't want to...