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Yeah. Way too bad. Those are the ones TTI actually has. The tube won't fit between the bolt holes, which is jacked up, because I just took a set of 1 3/4 tube off the X heads that we on it. Not sure how that works..

For those who ask about larger tubes.. these heads do not have the wide bolt pattern on the exhaust side. You can peen an 1 3/4" tube to clear the exhaust bolts (studs in my case), but the tubes are actually bigger than the port, hence, the 'step header'. It comes off the head with 1 5/8" tubes...

Ok, I AM stuck on the TTI's..

Hedman Hustlers shoot one tube through the fender. I don't have room for that. And if I don't find anything between now and November then I guess I'll wait. I'm REALLY dying to hear it run!

Looking for a set of w2 headers for an A body. Would like a set of TTI step headers, but they aren't making any more till the end of October. I'm not stuck on those, but anything that runs tube through the fender well is off my list. I don't really know what's out there, so what do y'all have...

Was following a boat in in the gulf in '91 that hit a mine.. I thought was the Iwo Jima, but I've slept since then.. I was on the USS Guam.

Desert Shield / Storm '91 - '92 US NAVY - USS GUAM '88 - '92..

Awesome little mower! Mine has a 12 horse Briggs and I wouldn't trade it for anything. They are simple little mowers, but the work really good. I get lots of crap from my buddies - they say I look like 'Super Mario Bros', but I don't care, it mows like a champ and I've got like $40 in it.. Laugh...

Check fluid level - if ok then you might have a problem...

Looks like s good one to me!

Try it with parrots...

Still got the 6 pack? That's good for something like 1100 cfm.. Lose the 906 heads - 440 source has what you need - and they're pretty cheap. Stock dodge heade are done @ .500 lift unless you modify them. An engine that big will soak up ALOT of cam, so I tend to agree with everybody else - more...

I Had a stock 340 cam and a two barrel 360 intake w/cast iron exaust manifolds on my 69 Coronet - it went 15.01 w 3:55 gears...

I have a 13.5:1 340 w/.625 roller cam... It has a Victor Jr. intake w/1" spacer - 507 HP @ 7300 RPM. I'd use the Victor.

Some food for thought.... They never built any A-body rearends with the big bolt circle. If you've got one with the big pattern then it was either modified, (aftermarket axles or redrilled flanges) or it's not out of an A-body.

Don't know what interchanges, but I've got a quarter glass for a '69 fastback...get ahold of me...

Poke a set of bearings in it - you can do it without pulling the motor...

I say get a real cam... But what exactly are you trying to accomplish? That cam will idle relatively smooth, but you've got enough motor to run something in th 284 to 292 range without any problems other than vacuum, and thats easily solved with a vacuum canister...

I drive my car...

I bought a set... they suck! They have a gap around the outer edge and I had to take a file to them to make them fit in the tailight housing - better than nothing, but leaves alot to be desired in the "fit and finish" department!

Back to why it won't idle in gear... do you have a vacuum leak? Even a small one would what you're describing. Typically when they won't idle in gear it's because the carb is lean. I can tell you from experience that a 284/.484 cam in a 318 will idle just fine with a stock 904, but it has to...

How about a scoop? Personally, I would try to avoid removing the spacer - a 1"wood spacer was worth 17 HP on my 340 and I've seen gains as high as 63 HP on big blocks. With a scoop being plan A, plan B would be finding a dropped air cleaner base that is clearanced for the Holley float bowls...

You'll need the correct tie rod too...

The less expensive way is to get a Mopar Chassis book and use the template to balance your neutral flywheel that you already have (or can buy really cheap).

First things first - better make sure the crank is drilled for a stick....

I have roller lifters with my 1.6 roller rockers, haven't ground anything to dust yet except the band in my tranny. I changed it and was rewarded with a nice leak at the converter. Honestly though, I've only ever killed one cam with 1.6 rockers and it lived for 17 years in three different...

The vacuum port is probably timed (only has vacuum when the throttle blades are open). As for the whistle... I suppose there are as many ideas about that as there are people that will talk about it. I also have a proform main body and I thought it was a pretty nice piece. It has great...

My Blaster 2 has been mounted horizontally for 15 years and has yet to exhibit any sort of problems. Currently it fires a 13.5:1 340 without any issues, so I too am inclined to not worry too much about how it's mounted...

Starter solenoid has nothing to do with it... If you've got it cranking over with the key the solenoid is out of the picture. Find your compression stroke and rotate the crank until the timing mark on the damper is showing about 10 degrees advanced, then line your rotor up directly under the #1...

Hutchfish- Got any bumpers?