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Agreed, but it wasn’t me that didn’t want it bad enough, it was my bank account that said no.

Original 340 Dart with around 20,000 miles. Raced from new, (with this paint job), then sat outside in Ohio for 30+ years. Brought back to life by the original owners brother. (I think that’s right). Saw it at a show at Summit in Ohio. Not for sale, I tried.

Sold

$600

$250 each or $400 for the pair

Sorry guys been busy. 3830830-400-2, 4006530-400-9. Only pics I have now, if there is something else you would like to see let me know. Just your basic old greasy engine block. Very little ridge, good rebuildable core. I will guarantee for 30 days so you can have them checked.

1970 383 block, cleaned, checked, bead blasted, bored .030", new cam bearings and plugs. Forged crank, cut .010"/.010", new main and rod bearings, connecting rods, cast pistons and rings. I don't know if you want to use these pistons, they sit pretty far down in the hole (.080"ish). Block...

I have 2 400 blocks with caps. $300 each. Located 30 miles north of Pittsburgh Pa. Engines were torn down a few years ago and blocks saved for future rebuilds.

I would not recommend sending this person any money. One of the pictures in his ad is actually a picture of my STR-15. I don't know if he has an intake or not, but something sure smells fishy.

I have some left over parts from my 318 build and its time to clean out the garage. 318 block, standard bore, good shape, removed due to bad bearings and crank. Also have the bad crankshaft, will need turned. Connecting rods, still attached to pistons. New cast stock replacement pistons .30...

I am building the same engine. If using felpro gaskets with .039 thickness, zero decking the block will put you right at 9:1 compression.

Got one, thanks guys.

I picked up a 318 today, but it is missing some parts. I am looking for alternator bracket, pulleys (crank and water pump), exhaust manifolds, oil dipstick, distributor hold down clamp, bracket to mount carb linkage, and maybe interested in some valve covers. Let me know what you got and how...

Not looking to go magnum. If its just mounts, oil pan and pickup, and exhaust that would be fine with me. Just didn't know what I didn't know. Not sure if I will be rebuilding one or not, depends on what I find. Thought I should gather some info before I spent my money.

I am looking for a 318 and I am seeing a lot of truck engines. What are the differences between the truck engine and the car engine? What might I expect to have to change to make it work?

Looking for a 318 engine, the more complete the better as I have no small block parts. Will consider running or rebuildable engines. Prefer with in a hundred miles or so of Pittsburgh Pa, but will travel a little further if needed. Thanx, Don

Slant 6 and trans are sold. Starting to see the garage floor for the first time in years. (getting excited)

Exhaust manifolds, 383 block, 516 heads, connecting rods are all sold.

more pics

sold

Make offer.

Anybody interested? All passenger seats, don't know what from. Make offer. Pitts. PA

Also have exhaust manifolds $100 Heads, 452's $100 per set, have 2 sets, 902's and 516's $50 per set. 383 block, $100, 1965 2 sets of connecting rods, 383-400, $50 per set. more to come. Attached Images

You may be correct, I think one came out of my 77 Aspen.

1980 225 slant 6, 60,000 miles, motor and trans., removed a few years ago and has been in the garage since. ran good when removed, $100 (2) 8 3/4 rear housings, both measure 56 1/2" flange to flange, 1 set of perches measure 44 3/4" ctc, and the other is 46" ctc. $50 each. I don't know what...

Yep, north of Pittsburgh PA. No problems with motor or trans.. Pulled out about 3 years ago and has been in the back of the garage ever since. It is behind a lot of stuff right now but I am planning on some garage cleaning soon and will get some pictures.

Anybody interested in a slant 6? 1980, 60,000 miles, motor and trans., $200.00

Why give the guy a hard time? If he would rather pay someone else to do thats his decision, mechanics got to eat to. As for a price, why not just call your local driveline shop and ask? It would probablly be more accurate than all these guys guessing at it.