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Maybe, I've never tried it. I have seen guys use C body HP manifolds and angle mill them. Not exactly an easy solution but I've heard that it works. On my Duster I just used the smallest header I could find and that seemed to work okay but it was only 600 hp.

I make several different tools for that task: Tools | AR Engineering

I can run a dyno test and prove that headers pick up a lot of power when switching from manifolds. I can also run a dyno test showing that headers don't pick up much power from manifolds. Just because you see a video of something doesn't mean that you aren't being lied to. The trick is the...

I don't think B body HP manifolds are going to fit in an A body so the discussion might be moot. However, in a B body you can build a performance engine that doesn't give up much power to headers. You have to be very, very careful with the cam selection but 500 hp isn't a problem with HP...

Are you running pump gas? Pump gas is really sooty so that might explain the sooty color. If you're running race gas then I'd say you're too rich. You kind of need to know the fuel is in order to read the plugs. In the same engine gas will look different than pump gas which looks different from...

He went with the 427 theme and added 427 logos to the front fenders. I think he picked the Chevy 427 logo rather than the Ford 427 logo but I'm not positive on that. He did get a lot of questions at the track about whether he had a Chevy 427 in the car. He just said no, Mopar 427 which confused...

427 inch small block. It made 520 hp and 510 torque on the dyno. Basically the same power as a Viper engine but in a smaller and lighter package.

Have to rotate the vehicles KD! I have 3 daily drivers so I rotate which one I drive every couple of weeks. The hot rod gets started once a month and driven around the block a few times. I'm probably going to sell it someday just because I don't really need a hot rod anymore. Had it 40 years so...

Start with Doctor Diff

I don't have many parts left anymore. I sold all of my brake designs to Doctor Diff about 10 years ago

The 1 ton bridge crane allowed me to "cheat" on a lot of stuff. I could pick up the front of the car and lower it back down over the engine and trans or I could lift the engine and transmission up into the car from below if the car was sitting on high jacks.

Yeah it works great if you have the right tools. Taking your time and figuring out the next move is a smart idea the first time around. I had the engine in and out of my Duster more than a few times during the build process. Each time I improved the process and decreased the time.

Depends on what you mean by "much newer". 40 years ago that statement was true but these days the parts cars are not much newer, they are roughly the same age. You used to be able to go to a wrecking yard and grab the brakes from a FMJ car for a quick disc brake upgrade. If you were smart you...

Here is one that I had sitting at my shop for a little while. It was for sale and it actually took a while to sell. I figured someone would grab it quick to turn into a race car but I think it actually ended up back on the street.

The post Valiant can be a cool street rod or road race type of car. Not as popular as an E body car so it is harder to find parts and they are a bit smaller so stuff can be a tight fit. I spent a lot of time helping Tim with his red Valiant. That car was a beast once we put the 427 in it. 160...

There are some very hard core Mopar guys in the Portland area.

I did a low deck 470 with TF 270 heads. This was a pump gas engine, made 780 hp with a Wilson ported Indy intake. Made pretty good power with a heavily ported Mopar 4500 M1 intake.

Simple, you cut the old one out and make a new one core support that puts everything where you need it.

You'll need a different MC depending on power or manual so make that decision first. If you go manual brakes you'll want something in the 15/16 range. If you stay with a booster then you'll want something bigger, probably over an inch in bore size. Brakes are a hydraulic system so you need to...

We used Viper brakes on this Valiant. Runs 160 mph on the front straight at Portland International and the Viper brakes haul it down just fine before the festival curves.

With aftermarket heads you need to confirm the spark plug size and reach. Check the Trick Flow instructions for what they say. I assume those heads need a 14mm thread with a flat gasket and a 3/4 inch reach but you need to confirm before you buy anything. If those are the correct specs then I'd...

With a cam that big you should probably just tune it by ear at idle while also watching the vacuum gauge. Play with the idle mixture screws and the initial timing to get the best quality idle with the highest vacuum reading. If the wide band tells you that it is 15:1 then you know it is lying to...

The AFR gauge might not be accurate at idle. Confirm the readings before you spend a ton of time chasing your tail. Wide band sensors are very easy to fool at idle. Performance cams suck air into the exhaust which fools the wide band into a lean reading. Small header leaks will also give a lean...

It is an interesting question and I don't know the answer. Some OEM engineers didn't think a press fit was a requirement, others did. A lot of Ford engines used a slip fit damper. It all worked okay for passenger car use. For a low budget rebuild on a passenger car engine I wouldn't be afraid of...

This discussion is a fine argument for EFI! Seriously, I switched to EFI just because of how difficult it is to get all of the analog circuits in a carb dialed in correctly in a dual purpose car. The power circuit (PV) is a great example of how a fairly simple valve can become super complicated...

My Duster ran 10's with 1 3/4 inch headers on it. No reason to go bigger unless the engine is putting out more than 600 hp.

Trick Flow heads are typically ready to use right out of the box. None of the other brands are currently, but things change over time as employees come and go.

No they are late model engines with cast cranks. E means cast crank when it is after the 440. The numbers aren't complete. There should be a number before the T showing the year. Late model engines are stamped something like 8T440 for 1978 Trenton 440. If OP wants to know for sure before he...

Just late model 440 engines with cast cranks. Nothing special about them. You want the one that is in the nicest shape but that can be a little hard to tell sometimes.

Sway bars were mounted to the struts on early B body cars so I copied that design when I built my own parts. This design didn't work so well for the street because it was too noisy so I eventually changed it to include a rubber mount. The strut rods are not factory. I machined a set from chrome...