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Are you talking about the "using mustang rotors" thread?

I have a set of mustang rotors that I machined to fit my KH 10" setup on my 68 dart GT vert. I have come across conflicting information regarding the seal. The original seal is 1.730 ID and 2.340 OD and this is what I machined the mustang rotor OD to. I've read here that someone used a seal...

I'm interested in this as well.

Well I think using the mustang rotors is not a good option. I'm not having any success with this using past information. I suspect this "option" is considered dead.

I just tried to fit up the rotors I machined and they will require a spacer of about 1/4" between the inner brain and the where the bearing seats against the spindle. I have not read about needing a spacer. Has anyone else run into this problem.?

I machined the mustang rotors using a rotary table on a vertical mill. I couldn't get the setup rigid enough to get a satisfactory result in reducing the diameter but I was able to get the hub dimensions machined. I then set up the rotors on my old Burke horizontal mill and got the diameter...

It is an unknown entity bacause I never drove the car. As I mentioned, I'm glad I decided to go through it because one of bearing cages was broken. I'm going to give it a try.

Power gear. Not manual gear..

I have a FSM for 1970 and I'm waiting (too long) for the one I bought through Bishko. I just ordered a kit that includes bearings fwiw. I see that the FSM calls out several special tools as usual. IME the FSM often calls for special tools that are not very special and substitutes are easily...

OK. I'll be using the federal pump that I have. I though the designation was in relation to the ratio?. I don't think either pump has a shaft close to 1"

I'm curious if the federal 1.06 pump is the right pump for my dart gt? Is there an explanation as to why there are two pumps used? The Saginaw is called the .94 and the federal is called the 1.06??? Is one "better" than the other?

I'd like to rebuild the PS box for my 68 dart GT vert and didn't find anything in the tech articles. Anyone know of a source? YouTube sucks in this regard.

I'd like see if there's an interest in creating the definitive guide to using the mustang rotors as a swap for the KH rotors. My lathe is a little too small to swing the 11.210" mustang rotors so I set it up in my mill on a rotary table.. I'll do the machining of the bearing/seal areas but will...

Sold!

Thanks. That's what I needed to know. Nothing about calipers - just rotors.

I got a set of mustang/raybestos disk for my 68 dart GT vert. Is there any value in the original KH disks or do I scrap them? I will hold on to them for measurement purposes but, once I'm done with the machining, I'll have no use for them. Thanks

Agreed. Do people do the front and rear holes for the LCA shaft? Seems like I'm seeing just the front welds reinforced?

I'm not here to argue but the previous poster clearly said to check the box mount flex while someone is trying to turn the wheel. The force to move the wheels is coming from the power assist INSIDE the power steering box and NOT from the input shaft. Different angles etc as far as where the...

I'm convinced and will be adding metal. I'm not racing like a lot of guys here and I have power steering which I'm sure many don't. I can imagine it makes a big difference if it is a manual or power steering car.

Maybe some had better welds than others or some years had more metal? The metal the is in the steering box mount on my K frame is far thicker than the other mounts and the welds are perfect. Way better than the rest of the K frame which was pretty piss poor in general. It's as if two entirely...

Um, OK? Yoda much?

I've beefed up the seam welds of my K frame. I also read about folks that have added gussets etc to the steering box mount. The steering box mount on my K frame has, what appear to be, the biggest and strongest welds of the whole K frame. Is it still worth adding gussets? I do plan on adding...

Why do so many plates have three holes? Drainage maybe? It seems like a hole for the torsion bar adjusting bolt and another to get to the bump stop stud should be the only ones required?

I already put new bushings in mine. I purchased all the needed parts for restoration when I bough the car over 10 years ago and then the project sat in my shop until recently when I started the restoration. Being that old all of the moog part are made in the USA. Hopefully they will be good. So...

Yes I used 1"greenlee punch. Then I didn't pay attention to the adjusting bolt so I had to go back with a grinder to make one larger. Oh well.

I've seen it. Thanks

I figure the puny ball joints in my dart is the weakest part of the front suspension but got a hair and figured I'd make the LCAs a little stronger. Just some 1/16" plate punched and ready for welding.

Yes I plan on drilling through the bushing and the bracket before installing the zerk. I battled with getting the bushing inside the cage today. It was a failure so it looks like I will have to cut the cage.

I'm about to install the prothane front sway bar bushings and thought about drilling the bracket for zerks? I can't see how the grease would make it between the bracket and bushing but thought it might be worth asking about? Thanks

I use a shop that does the dynamic, on vehicle, balancing and I'm one that thinks it is superior to the the modern style. They also do tire skimming. Whenever I have a vehicle tires skimmed and balanced at this shop I get an awesome ride.