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I was talking with Mike from MRL the other day and he recommended tying the back of both heads together with a ground and then continuing the ground to the firewall on the passenger side. That picture you show of the front of the driver's side head is where most people run the ground from the...

I hate it when things don't work like they're supposed to. I've had to fight to get a few of those switches out before. On some of them I had to repeatedly push the release button (wiggle it) in and out as I pushed the knob in and out at the same time before it let loose.

Try this site for l.e.d. bulbs: https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/1972-plymouth-duster--/47-460--/

I put one on the 340 'Cuda I had and didn't have any problems. There may have been a small power increase but if so it was barely detectable by seat of your pants driving. The rev limiter feature did perform as advertised.

Nice write-up. We did leave those diffusers in our Roadrunner dash and it was too dim still until we took them out.

It is true that many l.e.d.s cannot be dimmed. The ones that can do cost more. If you go to: https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/1972-plymouth-duster--/47-460--/ you should be able to find some that will work for you. There are different ones available...

In my opinion the best spark plug wire seperators at any price is the one from Spectre. They're $22.09 at Jegs right now. We've been able to adapt them to fit every application we've had. http://www.jegs.com/p/Spectre/Spectre-Wire-Looms/758074/10002/-1?itemPerPage=90&pno=1 1974 'Cuda 340...

The foot activated dimmer switch is most likely your weak link. I've had the plug in terminals come loose on me before and cause that and I've had a bad dimmer switch do it too.

Are you asking for the color codes of the wires that attach to those terminals? B1--- 1 black with white stripe wire P----my schematic shows no wire attached to this terminal R---- 2 black wires B2--- 1 red wire & 1 pink wire H----- 1 light green wire I------ 1 tan wire D----- 2...

Assuming that you are referring to an A body instrument cluster, there will be a circuit board behind your gauges similar to the one pictured. A series of bulb sockets are installed in those larger holes and are removed by rotating them 1/4 turn.

A long time ago I was told that the average properly tuned engine will fail to ignite each of it's cylinders a certain percentage of the time. As I recall it was part of ACCEL's advertising on their electronic high performance BEI ignition systems. The claim was that a higher output spark was...

I've been running MSD boxes in most of my cars for the last 10 years without any issues. I do keep an extra MSD-6 on hand just in case I have a failure. Maybe it would be most convenient to get yourself a second one if you're committed to an MSD. They show up at swap meets all the time and...

The person that I sold my '74 'Cuda to had someone work on the car afterwards. I think they sort of ripped him off. They convinced him to change cams to the exact same cam I had put in it a few weeks before and they removed the REV-N-ATOR and installed an MSD box instead. I know I hadn't...

They are still around and advertised regularly in the Mopar magazines. I bought one that I installed on the 340 '74 Cuda that I had. I was still trying to get the car dialed in when someone bought the car from me. I was also making carb and cam changes at the time trying to up the performance...

So although I'm charging my trailer battery through the trailer connector I'd have a much more efficient system if I ran a separate heavy charge wire. Good to know. The setup I have now works but takes forever to recharge my battery if it's low. That's why I occasionally have had to use a...

We bought a Pierce Carriage car trailer. It is a hydraulically controlled sliding axle trailer that doesn't need ramps because the tail end of the trailer drops as the axles are pulled forward. It has it's own hydraulic pump and battery. The literature that we got with it had us tie our tow...

Uncle Fester? Is that you?

I bought a Ron Francis wiring kit over 30 years ago for a fiberglass T-bucket project I was working on. Absolutely no problems with it.

It's not uncommon for the wiring plug that attaches to the dimmer switch coming loose. I'd try to wiggle/test it to see if the lights come back. I can't imagine your lights actually blowing. There is a headlight breaker that could be an issue but not as likely as that dimmer switch.

Good luck. I doubt you'll run into many problems. We're running MSD boxes on all of our cars here and never had too many problems. We did however have one that we had to reverse polarity on the wires running to the distributor. It took me a while to figure out that it was the cause of a misfire.

- been following this thread. good work!

I've change almost all of our vehicles over to LEDs. I've had very good luck. They all work and have worked without problems for years. I made the change to brighten up the instrument clusters. After so many years, the florescent paint on these old gauges fade and no longer reflect the light...

The locations of the bulbs is approximately where I made the colored dots. Green is where the blinker bulbs are located, yellow is where the gauge illumination bulbs are located, and the red dots are where the idiot lights are. There is a good article from Mopar Muscle magazine about a '67...

I wish I had that 240 KPH speedo.

Or maybe this. http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/auto-car-smoke-fog-light-headlight-taillight/138062297.html

I robbed this off the H.A.M.B. website. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalCast/

Re-read 67Dart273's first response. He gives you the instructions on how to check your voltage regulator. - By the way, nice troubleshooting guide.

x2

I've always thought that the biggest reason that vacuum advance was engineered by developers was to allow an engine to be started easier with the timing in a retarded position. - And that as soon as an engine started it would produce enough vacuum to advance the timing to a 'run' position...

As I posted earlier, I love your idea. One thing that might be handy to include would be a header listing all compatible models. Or is this set specific ONLY for 1969 Barracuda?