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SPEEDWAY MOTORS sells a liner for tanks that's supposed to be pretty good.

I've cleaned tanks before but it's hard to get the rust out of the crevice where the tank is seamed together. Coating the inside with a liquid liner is really a good idea if you don't want to have problems with plugged fuel filters later. I stopped trying to use old nasty tanks on vehicles...

If you've got the Edelbrock #7094 linkage kit it should be fairly easy. Connect your throttle cable to the back carb and it should pull open directly in response to the cable. The rod that connects to the front carb should slide back until it engages the black block that allows it to start...

Maybe you're actually putting 16-17 gallons in and the gas station pump is only registering 13. Now that would be the station I'd want to fill up at! - Nothing like a 25% discount on fuel. :cheers: LOL. I've never paid any attention to mine when I fill up.

I'm no expert but I'm wondering if you've got another problem. It's abnormal to experience a lack of fuel at the carb on each startup. I've heard of carbs that aren't vented properly siphoning gas into the intake after a warm engine is shut off. If it's really returning to the tank I would...

Years ago I remember buying 'high performance' gasket sets that included a block off shim to cover it.

3/8" fuel lines: $59 regular $95 stainless $45 sending unit http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/partfinder/product/list/?year=1970&make=Dodge&model=Dart&category=Fuel&cat=1287 gas tank: $113 free shipping...

I could have used one for our Charger. My 'Cuda had phillips heads. I'd hop on one for that price if I thought I'd have a need again.

Those are an optional screw that was sometimes used for anti-theft purposes. Snap-On is supposed to sell the proper tool for removal @ around $20. Because they were optional you can replace them with a #10 X 3/4" phillips head that was the other style used.

It should not wire to the coil but to an ignition (run) power source. They recommend a 10 amp fuse.

X2 on that as well. Your tank is over 40 years old. I've never regretted changing a tank yet on any of our cars. Some were so badly scaled that we had repeat problems until we replaced them, but now is the time to clean the one you've got (at the very least). I tend to opt for a new tank if...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Fuel-Sending-Unit-5-16-Filter-Sock-Pickup-Demon-Scamp-Cuda-Charger-Dart-/231174377404?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1973|Model%3ADuster&hash=item35d3110fbc&vxp=mtr...

Here are a few links to discussions on FABO. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=270003&page=2 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278531 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=267814 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=261259...

I had the same problem with my '67 Barracuda and my son's '70 Roadrunner. The tanks were fine but I had a devil of a time getting a good seal with those new lock rings. On one tank we were able to find and re-use the old ring. - On the other one I put some Permatex AVIATION FORM-A-GASKET...

The problem is obvious!

Which distributor are you using? We originally set ours up with an MSD pro-billet that we'd locked the timing out on and added a phasable rotor. When we tried to switch to the FAST distributor we could not get the computer to program and we switched back. My son has the car a few hundred...

I realize that when you talk to FAST's tech support it doesn't seem to help much. They will be pretty adamant about keeping all of the wiring as far away from everything that could cause interference and they will tend to emphasize having perfect connections on everything. When we've had...

Rusty, you and Kitty made quite the team on this one. I've never seen a better illustrated carb build. Thanks to you and Kitty for the work. :thumbrig: :thumbrig:

Ya, I noticed that a lot of the other numbers matched. It's hard to believe that the intake and water pump would make that much of a difference though. For that matter, the Charger could have held a 426 Hemi and look at the weight on it! I imagine it'd be tough to use any of those heavy...

I'd seen this chart before and I find it hard to believe it's accurate. When I put my 331 on my one engine stand it looked like it couldn't handle the weight. (I couldn't keep it from sagging) The same stand with our 400 (512 stroker) on it was no problem. Both engines fully dressed. I...

I'm upgrading the line in my '67 Barracuda to a 3/8". I asked Mike at MRL whether or not my 5/16" line was going to be adequate for the 408 that he's building for me and he recommended the larger line.

Maybe we should count our blessings when these parts are so hard to find. The easiest thing to build is a Chebby. I like the idea of having a car that isn't a mirror image of everyone else's. They were selling new crate 350s for $650 at the swap meet yesterday. I could have bought almost a...

It never hurts to look. I spend more time window shopping than buying. But every now and then really good deals pop up. I think 75% of what I buy is used. I usually hit every swap meet I can so I can stretch my dollars. I try to keep up on eBay and Craigslist and RacingJunk.com for the same...

$1950 On eBay: Vintage Mopar small block HILLBORN fuel injection 340 360 273 318 Dodge Plymouth

That third pic is of another early Hemi. But I know what you mean about almost everything being for Chebbies.

Yup no doubt about it Uh huh. Yep Yep Yep No sense closing that gate since the horse is already out of the barn. I thought I had seen a small block Mopar setup for sale on eBay a while back. I know there's a few guys floating around on eBay that do custom fuel injection setups and efi...

That's what my instructor told us at tech college back in the 70s. A lot of the guys in the class were racers and the teacher was adamant that if we chose to get rid of the rest of the smog equipment to increase power we'd see gains. But if we got rid of the PCV setups we'd be shooting...

Back when I was in school, my instructor told us that the PCV valve was pretty simple. More or less a check ball system to prevent fluid oil from getting through but still allow vapors to pass. When they stop working it's usually because gummy oil residue has stuck the check ball. I was told...

The PCV valve is designed to prevent oil vapor being spewed into the air while eliminating crankcase pressure. As previously stated, it will prevent oil from being forced through the various engine seals. - But it is also supposed to increase power. Prior to the creation of the PCV valves...

I replaced the sending unit in my '67 Barracuda without dropping the tank. I had made sure that the tank was near empty first though. But I agree with tekslk. If you've really got a system that's that full of gunk or rust, it'd be worthwhile (and not cost prohibitive) to replace them.