Search results for query: *

So just knock the casting down smooth?

Possible? Maybe. But when caliper pistons are all the way in with new pads seals get squished bulge out so as pads wear they can stretch as pistons move out.

Cut off wheel in dremel tool

So the solution to caliper seals rubbing on rotors is to get calipers rebuilt?

Supposed to be little rubber thing on end of rod that goes into master cylinder so rod dont fall out

Dust boot? I don't ever remember having one on my disc brake master cylinder and I don't think its really needed either.

Someone put pads on metal side toward the rotor?

Did you pressure bleed?

Right but ppl are gonna say only 6 percent more leg effort with larger bore master cylinder. I run 15/16 on mine too, manual brakes, and not much leg effort to stop car. The smaller bore does give pedal more travel but if brakes bled correctly not a problem

Yeah over the decades I ran the stock size bore and some I bought prob bigger bore. Now I run a 15/16 bore with EBC reds, steel braided flex lines, 7/8 rear cylinders. If other ppl like using two feet to stop, 6 percent more force or what ever, go ahead put what ever you want on your car...

Thats a nice part but if you have manual brake kelsey hayes disc brakes you will be putting both feet on brake pedal and still not stopping with that large bore master cylinder.

I run 7/8 with proportioning valve set to send full pressure to rear wheels seems to be working. But maybe I swap in 13/16 at some point.

Make sure rear brakes in excellent shape, make sure master cylinder and calipers in excellent shape, and pressure bleed. I run EBC red pads in front and steel braid brake hoses too.

I had to put 7/8 rear wheel cylinders on nine to get rid of rear wheel lock up. The original spec rear wheel cylinders were I think 15/16 which was a screw up when the cars were built. I would get 15/16 master cylinder. I pressure bleed mine to get all the air out.

Make sure seal grooves are cleaned out so seal can seat all the way in otherwise it could get pinched torn when pushing pistons in during assembly.

My grease gun hose screwed right into the bleeder hole same threads and grease gun pressure pushed the pistons out. But you have to use a C Clamp or something to make sure one piston does not come all the way out before the other breaks free.

And you won't need a proportioning valve if you run 7/8 wheel cylinders in the rear.

If you are going run manual brakes a 1 1/32 master cylinder will require excessive leg effort to stop the car. Something like a 15/16 bore master cylinder would be a lot less leg effort.

Like someone said earlier if the rotors are not warped or scored put some 80 grit on a hard sanding block and rough up the surface to break the glaze. Then wipe down with Brake Parts Cleaner. That will give the new brake pads a nice surface so the pads seat correctly. I did that to my rotors...

Mine was leaking and I bought another master cylinder that seemed to have a smoother surface on the cast iron portion and leak went away. My previous master cylinder the cast iron surface wasn't smooth seemed rough porous.

I read on here people have reported improved baking with the larger rotors.

More leverage just like a longer wrench applies more torque to a bolt then a shorter wrench.

I don't have one in my car and its a little worrisome cause the flimsy brake light switch is only thing keeping brake pedal from going too far back and rod falls out then no brakes....I would think a simple O Ring in the rod's groove would do the trick.....

Mopar Manual Brake Push-Rod Retainer, Bushing, Clip Rubber Grommet

Also, companies such as Inline Tube make great pre-bent ready to install hard brake lines for the classic mopars.

Me and my son are restoring a non-mopar vehicle. My son researched and landed on nickle copper due to ease of bending/flaring and corrosion resistance. Stainless steel too difficult to work with. My son bought a tubing straightener and some high end expensive double flare tool.

I know '69 calipers the dust boot has a lip on it that goes into a groove in the caliper; there is no ring used. From what I see on rockauto.com they list the '67 as the same caliper as the '69. They are showing rebuilt calipers in stock for around $140 each.

Same piston as used on classic first gen mustangs so I assume these pistons will be available forever.

I sent them a message and asked. I have not heard back yet. But if ppl ask maybe they could see the demand and get them made?

Rock Auto is showing new rotors for $17 so you might want to look into new ones (no hubs just the rotors). And no need to weld on the stud. Like others have said once wheel is bolted down it all gets squeezed together.