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could be the sliders in between the leafs crumbled and fell out causing slack in the springs. ESPO sells reproduction leaf springs for stock height, raised, or lower height, stiffer then original etc etc etc. I bought stock height Formula S replacement springs which were duplicates to the...

My car had wheel hop and I put reproduction leaf springs from ESPO and that fixed it.

The machine shop I used lined honed the mains first then used the crank center line to deck the block to put the pistons at zero deck. Not every maching shop has equipment to do it that way.

Summit will take them back if they were not installed for a full refund but there is a time limit. I would not accept those heads if they have the amount of core shift you say they have. I would think Edelbrock would do you good, just be polite and nice to them and they should be able to get...

Mallory Unilite. Hooks up to the stock wiring. everything is inside the distributor, no external box, no wiring to deal with.

I run a 3/8" steel reproduction line and 3/8" sending unit with a Holley 750 DP.

I run a Scat stroker kit which came with a Scat cast crank, Scat I-beams, and KB745 step dish pistons. The crank that came with the kit had a flaw so my machine shop sent it back. Scat copped an attitude and blamed my machine shop for the flaw and dragged their feet for 2 months. That is...

Forged pistons are needed for performance 4" stroke applications because of the piston speed.

Brian is the guy who had the custom ground retrofit roller cam ground for my engine. He must know what he is doing because my car makes some power. Idle is rougher then I wanted but throttle response is instant, great low end torque, and real strong top end too. I really like it runs.

It is supposed to be 500 hp 500 torque but it has not been on a dyno so I don't know. It is more power then I can use with street tires. It can put on a real good smoke show and no you don't need to use the brakes. Just put the pedal down any time under 25 mph and the tires are blazing...

With a 4" crank and fully ported Edelbrocks 500 hp is pretty realistic and still have good street manners.

The old Edelbrock LD340 intakes have the factory like mounting bosses for the compressor brackets.

I agree with the above.

Send that thermoquad out to this guy, he'll make it work: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4951845&an=0&page=0#Post4951845

I set mine at 32 total today and took the car out. Feels as strong or stronger then it was at 35 so I'll leave it at 32 for now.

Why the shim? The x heads are machined for piston clearance?

If its a 340 with open chamber heads I would run 38 degrees total timing. I ran mine around like that for 20 years or so and it worked well for me. It sounds more like a lean condition then not having enough timing to me.

I am running the KB745 step dish forged pistons at zero deck, closed chamber Edelbrock heads with .039" head gasket on a 4" crank SB stroker. Running 93 octane pump gas. Most people I talked to think 32 total is best but Ryan at Shady Dell thinks I should run 35. I have mine at 35 total now...

Hydraulic roller lifters tend to be taller then flat tappet lifters and some times at max lift the lifter oil groove can be exposed out of the lifter bore allowing excessive oil pressure to bleed off. Tell your cousin to pull his intake, run the oil pump with a drill and a priming rod, and turn...

Here you go: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Racer&Number=4966538&Searchpage=3&Main=4966538&Words=damper&topic=&Search=true#Post4966538

I have Scat I-beams in my 4" stroke engine and they cleared the block without grinding with room to spare. But I paid the machine shop to check for rod clearance anyway. Usually H-beams will require clearancing and so will stock rods.

The ring gap orientation is relative to the front of the engine because the thrust sides are different on each side. You should have instructions which came with the rings. If not check the ring manufacture's web site or look them up on Summit because usually there is a link with instructions...

And how much lighter is the LA engine going to be compared to the B engine.

I just got my heads back in July '08 and the prices on his site were what he charged me.

That would be money well spent there.

That is what I did, bought them Stage 2 ported directly from them. He can also set up the valve springs for you. He only charged me for parts to set the springs and retainers up when I bought mine. And all the other advice, and there was lots of it, was free.

And valve springs, retainers, etc etc.

If you PM user RyanJ over on moparts.com he will get back to you. He is a very busy man so be patient. I would get cam and any other recommendations from him. He has helped me a LOT with my engine and is still helping me even though I am not buying anything from him at the moment. He is a...

The little things add up too like: spark plugs, belts, hoses, coolant, motor oil, filters, fuel lines, engine paint, gasket sealer, fittings, clamps, cleaning solvents, motor mounts, nuts, bolts, etc etc. Every time you turn around it will be $50 here, $25 there, all for little stuff you need...

X and J heads are basically the same heads except the X heads have the bigger intake valves. Some J heads have the bigger intake valves and others don't. The X heads will work well for what you are trying to do.