Search results for query: *

Trunk extensions, quarters, valance use AMD if you can afford it. Inner wheel well may need work too. I used the cheap harbor freight spot weld cutters. Buy a bunch of em.

I’m in a similar situation, I don’t want to cut my hood for the tunnel ram. I’m guessing I’ll just remove the hood and hinges temporarily.

I can’t believe it’s been a year already, I figured I’d add some progress. I know my welds are horrible, used crappy bondo-glass, then regular bondo to skim coat the b-glass, top it off with shitty rustoleum primer. All done wrong but turned out alright, good enough for me.

I tried flanging a piece on my 67. Still working it but it will turn better than it was. That was my only goal.

It’s been awhile, I’ll throw up some small progress pics. I been back to working full time, nice to have a job. But puts a rev limiter on progress. So the passenger quarter is on and now doing the drivers. It required me using a piece of the old quarter to shape metal to fix the inner wheel...

What to use on the factory joints? All Metal vs Bondo Glass.

@340_duster, I followed your advice and it worked out great. I got the panel mocked in place ready to start tacking this thing in. What a major victory tackling quarters. The rear valance was fun fitting and making patch panels. Its together now I will finish stitching it all up this week.

Hey guys I’m trying to fit this AMD panel and so far a nice fit. However, I’m having trouble at the factory joints. The trunk joint goes under the deck lid right? See photo, I can get that under no problem. But it kind of locks the panel in place. So then I can’t get the top joint at the roof to...

I got the template, and it sounds like precision is the way to go. Thank you Sir

I already have the later trim which is nice, it was just glued on with silicone on the gasket. I just need the later gasket and retaining clips.

My wife and I got the rear glass out today and I’m going to be honest it was way easier than I thought it was going to be and the glass is not as heavy as it looks. I’m storing it standing up and used pool noodles to protect it. No rot or heavy rust around the gasket mating surface so that’s a plus.

Did a lot of fabrication on the rear valance, the car was hit on the passenger side and pancake the valance. I spliced and diced, but it’s coming along nicely. Especially not having any auto body experience, I am really developing a craft. I used a paint can to bend metal till I got the perfect...

Hell yeah I’m going to try it. I got so much of that under coat on my car it’s 1/4 to 1/2” thick in spots. Unreal, problem is that it’s all cracked and now trapping water and cause problems.

Now this changes the game for me with the full quarters. I’ll have to pull the rear glass. I’m sure it’s a pain is the ***. Gasket is shot anyway. Should I upgrade to the 68-69 style with the clips? The locking Mylar stuff broke like glass as I was removing it.

Then this happens; AMD Full quarters found in Lula, GA both sides $500 for the pair. I didn’t even try to talk him down, drove 1.5yrs one way to pick them up. What a score.

As I was fitting the Sherman panel I decided to install the whole patch panel cause my car had a wreck at some point in its life and keeping the original styling would have took extra work. So I bought a harbor freight flange tool to lap weld it on. Tool works well enough. Got it all mocked up...

The AMD trunk extension fit perfect. I did notice I installed it a little high on the back end after the fact but it will work out.

Here’s where it gets interesting as I’m fitting the panel and rebuilding the tail light bucket and rear valance.

My project is going from mild to wild as it relates to fixing rust. I like others had missed out on the AMD sale recently that had their full quarters 50% off. When I finally got the nerve to order them they had sold out of the full passenger side. The drivers side could still be had. But I...

I sold a set of notch rear glass trim a few years ago on eBay for $450. I bought some left over parts for cheap. Didn’t know I had it until I cut the bubble wrap open years later. Couldn’t believe what it was worth. They where perfect pieces too. I should have held on to them. I have a FB...

I went from Lincoln.035 to Vulcan .030 and having better luck. So far I like the Vulcan but I also bought some expensive weld through copper primer.

Looking good dartfreak75. Not sure what size flux wire your running but if it’s .035 bump down to .030 for sheet metal you will have better results. I understand using what you got, because I do that to. But if you make a run to harbor freight the Vulcan wire is cheap and works pretty well...

Awesome that what I needed I appreciate the photo.

Sorry my car doesn’t have a console. I have a bench seat. wish i had console with buckets.

Thank you any chance you can grab a photo of that bracket behind that tail light support. The one in the third picture. The tail light support is in the way.

That’s the stage I’m on I replaced the extension from AMD nice fit but doesn’t have the bracket. Thanks

Looking for the jack bracket that goes on the back part of the trunk extension. I have the spring loop and fender well portion. I see re-pops, not sure what my original one looked like. anyone have a good photo and source for that piece.

I noticed that it does not have the flange like the factory. I did buy the cheap harbor freight flange tool. Not sure with the curvature if it will work on that. I will have to figure that out.

I’m going through this now as well. I should have bought the AMD when they first went on sale. When I finally got the nerve to buy a full passenger side they already sold out. I missed out, so then I place a order with getallparts for a Goodman 3/4 panel, they canceled the order, refunded my...

haha....which one of you put this fine auto up for sale in AL. Sure is a cream puff. 1976 duster/dart