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I’d run it like I stole it.

I just cleaned mine with a small wire wheel on drill, then steel wool coarse and fine spraying brake cleaner until I thought it was good enough.

That is by far the coolest. You got a unicorn for sure. That has to be used on vixen, you will be a legend. Haha I met a legend who owns a unicorn.

Happy dyno is right. But I’m not surprised a tired slant can pick up 62hp on a fresh rebuild with headers, intake. and 4 barrel. They dynoed the original tired slant and got 70Hp. I bet they shaved the head .100” to get the compression up and a bigger cam to go with along with it. Let’s just be...

Check your sources or perhaps google. Slant six in a 67 barracuda probably is the most common platform.

I agree it could be any combination of things but just the few intake valves are sticking. I was going to try replacing that push rod. disconnecting the fuel line from the intake on the fuel pump and running a hose into a gas container of fresh gas. chances are this won't help anything probably...

My bad I said bent valve. I meant push rod. :oops:

The valves were free moving prior to install. I was able to push down on all them. Now the are all sticking. I haven't even really drove the car. Did a cold adjustment .10 intake and .20 exhaust. Started it a few times let it warm up. Took it for a ride and that's when it all went south. It was...

sure, varnish turns into a hot glue on the intake valves. I just don't really want to pull the head back off after just getting it put back together. But chances are I'm going have to.

Put a rebuilt head on my car after sitting for 15yrs. Of coarse drained the gas as best I could. Put about five gallons of fresh fuel in it. Poured some fuel down the carb and fired it up. Started it let it run a few times. took it around the block three times and heard a metal clanging sound...

Well shes alive and running after 14yrs of sitting and running good. Not sure how with only 70-80lbs per cylinder. I am convinced there was something wrong with the compression tester I had. We will see how long she last. I just gotta do the brakes now before I can drive it.

I used the dorman from o'reillys auto 89 cents a piece. be sure to use thread sealer on the upper studs they thread into the water jackets.

realistically if I order a over hall kit from flatlandersracing for 230.00 what would necessary machining of the block be around? mostly likely .040 over.?

I first did my compression test got nothing, then I hooked up air 100psi and it blew straight out the carb. Pulled the head turned upside down and poured water in the chamber and it drained straight out the intake valve. Whats weird is it is only the intake valves on all cylinders the exhaust...

I cleaned off the lifters and re-installed with assembly lube. I included a top view of the head. I don't have a caliper but do those springs look thicker to you guys I can't really tell either. they look a little thicker but they have some green stuff on them not sure what it is.

Well my ebay purchase looks like it may have been worth it. Milled to what i have no idea but it has obviously less material compared to my other head. valve job, seals, and springs. But cant tell much else. I don't really know what I looking at, LOL! I am scared to bolt it to my beat down...

I'm sorry for the miss understanding my dots are aligned. Im referring to the relationship of the markings on the balancer at 5 degrees BTDC and the rotor.

Hi folks, So i started to get ready to put a rebuilt head on my slant six. I bought this car not running and found the valves are not seated at all. So now that the head is off and I installed a new timing chain i want to set timing. I have cylinder 1 at tdc and the balance at 5...

I have sea foam will that work. I will probably get some mineral spirits

what would you recommend for solvent and this will fee up the rings a little more?

No I haven't looked at the head yet I pulled it and set it off to the side. The intake valves were definitely not sealing. I checked the timing and at TDC the balancer lines up perfect. I just check the rotor its close to number 1 spark plug. +/- 10 degrees. Probably do to the slack in original...

Pulled the head was previously rebuilt in 85' parked in 99' ran for 14yrs sat for 14 more rebuild has .30 pistons and there's no telling what else was done but there is a stamping for the rebuild on the front of the head. Everything cam apart easy hopefully goes back the same. I pulled the...

So now i guess i am moving on to head removal and installation. I have some vacation time next week so if and when that head gets here its game time. I got to get this tired fish started back up.

Guys you all have been great and do appreciate the tricks of the trade. But after Moparkid starting talking about the bigger stainless valves 1.7/1.44 and the bigger springs i looked on ebay and they both can be had for a hundred bucks. But then i stumbled on a rebuilt head the same cast number...

After taking a real close look and putting a straight edge over the valves i noticed that the valves are not level at all and also the oil seals are mostly all broken into pieces. most have drie rotted over time. So that's the culprit. Thanks guys for helping narrow it down with the fun of...

I should probably try and treat the valve stems with some sort of lubricant seeing that they still look dry from sitting and even though I changed the oil and added mmo to the cylinders I don't think the valves have got much oil on them.

I added a dose of 100psi to all the cylinders and air was blowing out the carb on all of them. So i tap the valves with a rubber hammer to see if they were stuck they moved and still continued to blow air out of the carb on all cylinders. No air at all out the exhaust. So your right guys...not...

Moparkid that's what I'll do before pulling the head pull out the compressor and attemp to see if I have leaks. It trips me out that 5 out 6 cylinders are completely out. What amount of pressure should I apply with air I was thinking about 100-140 psi?

I removed the rockers to rule out the timing. This would in sure the valves are closed during compression stroke. The crank being broke is probably not the cause...I have a little compression in #6 and the crank is still turning the crank gear and timing chain. That means the crank is turning...