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Why would you want to install a Chevrolet rear end in your Mopar???

U-joints centered, fit correctly. Proper slip yoke engagement in the trans (deep enough) Drive shaft run out in the car. drive shaft balance. pinion angles. According to the chart all other things correct a 53 in long 3" shaft should have a critical speed at or above 6000 RPM. BUT I have...

Clean the pan and magnet, Change the filter, Drain the Torque converter, And adjust the bands. Refill with modern fluid. I can see no advantages to performing a flush.

Like 70AAR said above I'm sure you can what you want used. You can get evertthing repro also http://www.beaparts.com/list_items.aspx?body=A&cat=I&subcat=2

Do not drain it out +4 is one of the best choices in your trans. I have +4 in my 67 (never rebuilt) 904 and it works like new. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html

http://www.aandatrans.com 317 831 3066

With a V8 it may also have a 9.25

My 727 only shifts 2 times. :dontknow: 1-2 and 2-3 :D I would install a center section with 3.23 or numerically lower gears for the type of driving you are doing. It will last much longer and burn much less fuel.

42RH AKA A-500 AKA 904 based O/D trans 4 forward gears 2 duty rating R rear drive H Hydraulic valve body (control) Never heard of a 44RH 46RH AKA A-518 AKA 727 bases O/D trans

Wasn't the original purpose for the low gear set, 80's cars with steep rear gears. An attempt at gas mileage before O/D was available.

Cracked, So with a stroker would it be advisable to run a low first gear set and step up to a taller rear gear?

Wow that looks great, Nice job! Thank you

Thanks. Nice install. Just what I wanted to see.

Moparclown, Do you have a closer pic of how your shifter fits in your console. Thanks

I hate to sound ignorant, I under stand the low first gear in the a998 and a999. What does LU stand for.