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Looks like your on your own :(

If I could find a long enough hose to WA..I would get you to help me Chuck:toothy10:

Your right if talking about bleeding a "new" master with new fluid...The idea of the jar methed is not to return the older crap fluid back to your system which makes sence in my mind. :read2: (each to their own) on this one I guess

Bleeding or priming a Master is usually the first thing done prior to brake bleeding. Traped air left in the master "could" have you running in circles. Also doing it on a bench is EZer to contol then in the car. You will need a extra person of course. I made up 2 extra fittings with 4" steel...

Just a suggestion.. If you have a real problem, you could try asking your local brake/muffler repair shop. They may direct you or sell. A few years back I required new fronts and the shop got them in within a hour!

9" drums were standard on all "six cylinder" cars from 1963-1975. The shoe's are 2.5" wide. The 10x2.25" were standard on V8 cars from 1965-1972 To measure your drum, just measure arcoss the dia of it.

GOT YA DUDE!! UPPER CAPS MEANS I"M NOW HAPPY!!! :toothy7: Thanks Guys :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanks Goodys, but what I ment was which line "on" the m/c do I open/brake, that "will" go into the RC. The rear or forward one? Or did you mean...brake the very "top" line on the P Valve? Thanks

Hi guys, have the Hurst Roll Control, but the directions got lost! I know this is kind of a straight forward install. I'm going to put it between the Dual Master and the porportioning valve. My Porportioning valve (like many) is the 5 port. 1-rear outet, 2-front outlets & 2 inlets from the...

Thanks again guys,...I think I'm just going to leave things alone in this department and live with the 1.75 shoes. I felt I had a freebe coming for a change, :sad: however there's just not enough "positive" go for the swap with the 7 1/4. From what I hear the extra .5 friction isn't worth the...

I could be reading this wrong?

Thanks guys, I was wondering then...I have a extra 7.25 rear 5X4 bolt with 2.25 backing plates/drums and hardware. Would swapping be a good idea as the 7.25 car had the same size on the front as well...as long as I don't go larger on the back??

I'm not sure what your rear end is or bolt pattern size SB or large. This link may help if you haven't read it yet. I know there are a few mods you can do, as long as you follow the brake swapping rules! If not..wasted money and safety issues. http://www.autohobbydigest.com/a-brake.html

Off hand, anyone know the "years" that rear axles came with the 10X1.75 brakes shoes or any information on them. My 69 fronts are the orginal 10X2.25, "not" 9" because it came with a V8. However, the rear 8.75 came from a donar vehicle unknown with the SBP. There seems to be a lot of info on the...

Good luck with your parts. I sure bet any of your english is "far"" better then my German. Only thing I know is sauercrout? LOL :silent:

Your going to have to match them up somehow. It's not really that your hose is short for the year 75 dart, but because the "hard lines" from your valve to the hose fittings are shorter. Your caught between a rock and and hard spot. Take one out and have someone make you up some steel braided...

LB pattern, Not if you have drums "only discs" Here a link that will save some time and typing. :salut: http://www.autohobbydigest.com/a-brake.html

If I'm understanding you correctly, I would stay with a 75 year hose set-up if that's what your using for your set-up on the 72. As long as you stick to a-body lines or (depending) on which hose/s you require, ask for say 73-76 duster. With calipers in the rear you "may" have to remove them and...

I'm not sure if this is what your looking for..anyways wheel/rim swap is not much of a problem if the bolt size is the same. However there has been some problems that when upgrading to disks, that some rims will not fit due to the size of the caliper.(Mostly 14"). Now if your asking if you can...

For the sake of 100.00. (maybe cheeper) I would just get it fixed. (to me it's like going backwards) or you could end up with more problems. Just my thought...Brake light adjustment, no big deal. Look under your dash (upper end of brake pedel) you will see the switch. It's adjusted by uncliping...

Humm, I did see an offset booster today, but it was for Chev (had a range to about 45 degree off center). That's what you would want (but MOPAR). Don't know for sure if you could even mod and use a chev booster setup. :wack: As for changing to manual???? I would re-post this question and see...

I'm not sure this info can help you :dontknow: and I don't know much about "your" booster, however (E-bay) now has a Booster relocation kit for a HEMI? Worth maybe a look and investigation. Sorry don't have the link, but it's under BRAKE BOOSTER (Pg2) Good Luck, PS Nice looking wheels dude...

A little more help.... A conversion to the larger 5x4.5" pattern wheels that is somewhat common is redrilling the original small pattern axles and installing new lugs to facilitate a larger diameter wheel. The problem with this is that there isn't enough meat on the axle flanges to drill a...

Thanks Stormin Norman, Good thread and to the point. I learn something new eveyday.

Mark, I did a little investigation of my own...and it looks like your right. Although very close to "A"s (F body) for 76, however I can see how confusing due you being told it's a 75. I did read that of course production started in late 75. Could the guy be looking at the manufacture date...

Your in, Yes it's an A body. Any 73 -76 (large bolt 4.5 x 5) http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/EarlyMoparDiscBrakeSwap.htm http://www.allpar.com/model/aspen.html