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Im going to meticulously go over it tomomorrow if I can get another hand. It’s just a 4cycle engine, right? How hard can it be? - but, kickin my *** - probably wind up something stupid.

Some plugs came out black, a couple wet, and a couple brown. But it had been running like crap for a while. When it was running good, they were almost perfect. Tomorrow. Compression check. Now, #1 intake valve begins to open about 10* before tdc. But this is a 1 man operation and i...

Autolite 65 Came out of 4 or 6.

Basically stk 360. Mild 260/.440” cam. Made up of all diff parts. And I have changed a lot of stuff around trying to fix this, - so I guess I probably introduced new problems. This distributor. A reman. Points open before rotor meet the post. About 1/4” before getting to it. & I think...

Because when the spark is thrown, it would be nice if the rotor was under the post of the wire to the cylinder that needs to be fired. Small block mopar, - single points distributor. Ok How do I close this thread?

3 diff coils. Nice fat 1/2”” spark Now working my way from coil wire towards plugs. Replace ‘em all ! But the phasing thing is buggin me.

Funny 7 pages of talk about Tony. This drives u-bloob hits. - Let it go, and see what happens. * “Next time on UTG” - Tony pulls the engine again! Wears out fasteners and re-thinks strategy. He gets hits and sponsors as long as the soap opera plays and people tune in.

I was thinkin along the same lines. Wires are on right. I had/have wiring problems with a rotten harness, but worked out run1&run2. Ballast good, Coil power good, points & condenser good. Rotor falls short (1/4”) of #1 post at tdc1. Imagine would pull further away with ignition advance...

Starts, Runs, runs badly, won’t take pedal. Bangs out the exhaust. Im down to changing the plugs and maybe cap and wires. It’s cheap enough. Im tracking this problem down. Found this on one of the plugs I pulled out. What causes this?

Sounds like the time I found a rag in my gas tank. Duh! I don’t know how it got there. But same symptom.

My 10year ago 318 in my duster had Hughes 214/216 regrind, 302 heads, 600 eddy, headers, & 3.55s ran 14.2 and almost 17 mpg driving 180 miles back from the track. Will you be using an AFR gauge for carb tuning? You can cruise pretty lean w th right metering rods in it.

I bought a “new” rebuilt distributor a year ago. Points block wore down in 500 miles. I don’t trust the replacement points with the white/clear rubbing blocks. Look like a plastic that would melt at temperature. Go to ebay and buy some NOS Mopar or Echlin brand.

Do you feel valve de-shrouding in the combustion chamber would help?

Yes I would. ! LOL! Think you found the problem.

Issue for me too. Rockers with ball, should be adjusted where ball falls in line with shaft center and roller axis center for initial measurement. Some folks just say “so many turns down” This line should be perpendicular to the valve stem at/about mid lift. - adjusted by shaft height. Which...

Apparently you want peer approval. And I’m not going to tell you how to spend your $$. BUT , Certainly any/all hot rodding practices will bring benefits. Raise compression, increase flow, bigger cam, add carb. - - I can’t see this from my house, but I say “Go For It”! What ever your bank...

Your valve springs will determine your limit. Make ‘em or Break ‘em.

That is not serious. But, good observation. Clean it up and the embossing, I feel, will make the seal. If there is concern, and depending on your assembly practices, a layer of copper coat would provide better sealing. It is a shame with parts shortage, that people have to “settle”. -...

OP Here. Great. It looked good to me, but I may have overlooked something. This turned into a brand and heat range thread. - brings me to……, Thinkin,… Iron heads should usually run colder plugs with increased compression. Aluminum, .. not so much. Exotic metal plugs are good for...

25 years of crap and shellac in the small orifices. Lean, not because of vac leak, but no fuel. Pull the idle screws out and hose the screw holes with carb cleaner. If that doesn’t do it, rebuild the carb. Damn, it’s been setting 25 years! Gas prolly smells like varnish. And probably is.

Opinion E-3 3.56 ?

Are there any issues with using the magnum type 5/8” drive spark plugs on the older LA heads that had 13/16” drive plugs? Dia, reach, and gasket all look the same to me.

I can’t name that noise in 1 hundred notes. Cell phone audio is hideous! You definitely have some bearing issues. Start over, check, measure and do it right.

Heads, cam, - no one has mentioned ignition. - if you recurve w about 15* initial, you will see significant improvement down low and will idle like a happy cat.

When you take a 50 yo engine and rebuild it, everything is on the table. Sure, bore it. Raise compression? Why not. Cam it, yup, a lot to pick from. Intake? Yup again. Why run. 40lb cast iron? - the question is - what do you expect? Reliability? Or Race-ablity. Mpg? Torque? Options are out...

My 318 roller w 214/216*@.050” cam - 9.6:1 compression. Stock 302 heads , 904 trans w/ stock converter ,headers, performer intake & carb, 3.91 gears - ran strong. But only 14.5 sec at the track. Couldn’t hook up. Was a lot of fun, and local State Trooper told me, personally (up close) , he had...

Wow. A lot of opinions and testimony of who did what. where is the OP? He Seems to be concerned about compression, and I would understand why. if you can’t bring the CR up, put the cam in 4* advanced and don’t look to rev it to 6k. If like me, you have to work w what you have.

Seen this. Put springs in to curve faster and cruising, and the engine would surge when trying to smooth cruise. And you are running short curve w more initial? Jus makes it worse. * Cruise AFR needs to be richened up. If you had an AFB, it would be a rod change. - opinions and assholes* - a...

Bingo! You got what you got. 76-?? Doesn’t make much difference.