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Edited - misunderstanding

You could try opening all the bleeder screws and let it gravity bleed the fluid out. Or when you bleed the brakes with the new master you could just keep bleeding them until new clean fluid comes out.

I found the new rubber to not really be rubber, and constantly leaked. I found one on a mid '60s car in decent shape and used it, leak stopped. It's actually real rubber.

You didn't swap out the drum/drum for a disc/drum? Did you bench bleed the matter cylinder? Are your bleeder screws facing up?

I had power 10" drums on my '70 Dart and when I went through it I converted to big bolt discs up front and manual brakes. I can hardly tell the difference to be honest. May have to push a little more, but I feel a huge difference between manual drums and manual discs.

Pump up the pedal until it's stiff, then try holding pressure on it. If it slowly sinks to the floor the master is no good. I agree with air in the lines though. Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

Why not just bend your own and flare your own ends? It's easy to do, just take your time.

Your upper and lower control arms will be the same, but you'll need to change spindles over for the discs. You'll need to change your master cylinder over from drum/drum to disc/drum, and change your proportioning valve (distribution block) over to the disc brake one. To add power brakes...

Sorry, every Dart I've had from '69 with front and rear drums has had the 2 round caps, with equal sized areas for fluid, unlike disc/drum which is large/small. My 13,000 mile '70 Dart had the same one for drum/drum.

A drum/drum master cylinder for your car should look like the one in this picture.

The only thing I can think of is the single piston calipers are a lot cheaper and easier to find if you need to replace them than the 4 piston. I think when I bought the single piston calipers, they were around $35.00 each and readily available at the parts store, but it took my cousin over a...

Manual master cylinder, and correct push rod from brake pedal.

Any junkyard should carry those rods that come out of the cylinders. I got a set for my Dart from a 1970 Chevy pickup.

Have you checked to see if the callipers are seized?

One benefit is the BBP calipers are much easier to source, and are much cheaper (at least in Canada). I recall paying $35 a caliper for the BBP single piston ones, whereas my cousin paid close to $300 a caliper for the SBP 4 piston (I believe).

I have a brand new pair of 73+ rear drums with 5 x 4.5" pattern that I never used that I can sell you if you're interested.

I think it just depends on whether you have 9" or 10" brakes on either rear, and if you're upgrading from 9" to 10". I can see the hardware being different then. I could be wrong though.

National Moparts also has them. http://www.nationalmoparts.com/merchant.ihtml?pid=2009&lastcatid=1742&step=4 I bought a pair a couple years back from them, but I only paid $40 for the pair! Yeesh, prices have gone up..

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You've probably already gathered the parts by now, but you should grab the proportioning valve from the disc brake car while you're at it.

I haven't ever heard of any kind of adjustment. But every time I've bled brakes, or a clutch slave cylinder, and there is play in the pedal, I just keep bleeding them until they are nice and solid from the get go (or close enough with like an inch of play). You may have bled them until it was...

Grab that rear end, those interior pieces, grab everything you can! And definatly grab that Satellite! Those are hard to come by, and that one looks to be in great shape (minus a front end). Don't let it get crushed if you don't have to, they don't make them anymore.

If the master cylinder is new, or rebuilt, often the 'rubber' seal they use isn't a good rubber, its some sort of poly-something. I found they don't seal like the old rubber ones. Try to find one from an old master cylinder, and use it. Also make sure your master cylinder lid isn't bent. I had...

Regarding the back drums. Why did you have to pound on the drums? Did you not pull the rubber grommet off the back side of the backing plate, and stick your flathead screwdriver inside, and manually turn the sprocket to take the tension off the shoes?

Also check your wheel cylinders. If one is leaking, it doesn't matter how much you bleed the brakes, the pedal will always be soft and there will always be air in the line.

I bought my remanned master cylinder from Lordco Auto Parts, a company based here in BC, and the master itself works fine, just the lid was warped, and the crappy poly whatever seal leaked. So I found an identical one on a Cordoba and used it (it had the rubber seal instead and was straight)...

Oh another thing, each time the master leaks, are you adding more fluid to it to top it up? Because if it leaked enough that you got air in the line, the next time you added fluid to top it up, you would be trapping the air inside the line, resulting in squishy brakes.

If they're squishy, it sounds like you have air in the line. You will need to bleed them, but check to see that your rear wheel cylinders aren't bad. To do this, peel up the rubber grommet on the ends, and if there is fluid inside, they are bad. If it is dry inside, they are good. Is the...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a Coronet is a B body, so the UCA's won't fit in an A body, let alone the spindle bolting up to the A body LCA.

I have found that sometimes the 'new' parts aren't always the best. I have front discs from a 75 Dart on my car, with new calipers (old ones were seized), but I bought a new MC only to find out the lid was slightly bent, leaking fluid all over my inner fenders. I found an old rusty lid from a...