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I tried the Thompson first, but it couldn't keep up to my driving style. Next up was the Saginaw, which was the winner.

If the nut spins with tires in the air, then it will likely also spin with the weight on the tires. I had that same problem, back in 1998, but I have forgotten how I solved it. With rubber bushings, the pins are captured by the press-fit and so, yes, the LCA's have to be at ride height. But not...

If the axle seals are in, acting like dams, yes. But like said above.

With factory bars; No that is not possible. however, it is possible to wind a T-bar bolt up, and the business end Not be in the Socket. It's also possible that the Socket in the Cross-member is torn out, and factory bars can lose their spring, and sag, requiring more wind up. Also, if one of...

After all that, then this; When you are backing up with the brakes applied, the LCAs will migrate forwards compressing the Strut rod bushings. If you happen to be coming off a drive-on hoist and turning, Contact!, watch for it. I just trimmed my fenders, and could then run 245/50-15s on 8s at...

It's really hard to beat a P/S system with a 12" fat foam rimmed steering wheel, after you rebuild the box with a few more reaction springs.

to switch from 72 drums to 73 discs, I think you need ALL the 73up parts; that is both control arms and spindles. I said, "I think", lol, cuz I only did this once and it was a loooooooong time ago.

Jus so you know; Cone-types can be rebuilt almost forever ,darn cheap, and set up for various purposes. they're not junk..

Are you talking about the pitman arm that is supposed to be bolted to the steering box? how the dickens can that happen? did the nut fall off? did the arm fall off? did the steering box fall off? did the Engine flip over? did the frame break? Check the upper control arm cam bolts to see if they...

Before you do anything; I used to be an alignment tech in a tire shop. I have seen tires create their own pull, with no visible reason for it. I know it's a longshot, but Swap the frontwheels, side for side, and see if the pull follows the wheels. While the wheels are off, check to see that they...

Well boys, that offset kit allowed my lowered 68 Barracuda to accept 325/50-15 on 10s , treads inside the tubs, with the sidewall bulges about flush to the body, so I gotta say, it was worth it for me. But yeah, I gotta take corners in town with a bit of caution, but only a bit. Whereas with...

I'm a streeter. I am Not a racer. My comments always pertain to being a streeter, unless specifically stated otherwise. I've been driving A-bodies since 1970, and occasionally wondered about that slop. Here's my Opinion; >As the body moves up and down relative to the road, and/or the center of...

On the street, it is a non-issue. and is actually required during braking, to prevent a bound-up situation. just send it!

IDK what R25 is. I run Dextron III in all my Saginaws. I tried Ford ATF once, in a Federal Pump I think it was. I know I had a bad experience with that but I don't recall what it exactly was, I mean that was like 4 or 5 decades ago. On the pump the hi-pressure line screws into a fitting at the...

Take a look at the shaft overlap in your column. I snapped the pins in mine, back in 1999, and never looked back. But I went the other way, putting a P/S box in, where a manual had been; for it's power-assisted 3.5 turns lock-to-lock. Then, a year or two later, I forget, I hot-rodded the box...

There may be a good reason to consider a Rack-N-Pinion steering, but for the street, I don't know of it.

the device in post #2 is just the steering control valve

and it drives straight like that without pulling or burning off the tires? If yes then check your body panels for symmetry, and if they match, then I recommend checking the frame and K installation I mean assuming what others have said works out OK.

once it is installed, both ends are captured and that problem goes away

I converted my manual-steer 6cyl auto 68 Barracuda to SBM, Power/steering, simply by, on purpose, dropping the bottom of the column on a concrete floor and shearing the pins. Then back into the car it went. That was year 1999

or just put some ballast in the trunk ............ that's a joke,btw. I got my 68 Barracuda down to about 3200 pounds and 52% front weight bias with almost no effort. Well the dual 3" exhaust was 72 pounds IIRC. and the rear seat was nearly as much, lol. Lightweight alloy wheels makes a pretty...

Did you install new upper control-arm cam-bolts? If yes, my experience with those is that the new ones do NOT have enough threads on them to properly clamp the bushings. I ran into this a number of times with customer cars. The solution is to grab a handful of thick hard washers and put one on...

Don't get too flustered, this swap has been done hundreds of times, and as far as swaps go, is pretty straightforward. Most of us go the other way tho, installing the late gear into the earlier bodies. lol.

As you may be aware of, I am also 100% a streeter. For me; >Corners with my streeter, are mostly at 35mph or less. >Braking is from 60 mph or less. >Some 80/90% of my driving is hiway cruising to and from my rural home to nearby towns. >The biggest tires I can fit on the front of my 68 Barracuda...

Did you know that the Double D steering shaft is made in two pieces, that slide together and, are riveted together with nylon rivets, to keep the bottom part from falling out when the column is not installed? I bopped mine on a cement floor, sheared the pins, then stuck the thing back in the...

I never use the self-locking nut in any steering application For two reasons 1) the first one you already know, and 2) the second, because those nuts tend to ef up the threads, either going on or coming off. lol. If I am forced to use it; I use a tap to get rid of the self-locking business, then...

If while cranking on the adjuster, you see the spoon move, AND do not see the crossmember end rotate, then something is wrong. Either the LCA is not able to rotate, or the bar is busted on the LCA side of the spoon, or the bar is extremely tired. I don't see any other possibility.

Well whatever, the T-bars need adjusting.

Cut the ends off, pry it out, and replace the bolts. Or, cut the ends off and cut the middle out, then it will all fall apart; replace the bolts. Or heat the sleeve until it turns red, then smash it all along the axis of the bolt with a BFH, to expand the sleeve, but not hard enough to bend the...

None that I can post. The one in my Avatar is very similar, but is something I got off the net