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Is there a reason that you want or need 400hp? I mean 325>350 is already a ton-O-fun on the street, and with only 3.73 gears, you'll need some bottom end torque, which will go away with a bigger cam....... requiring a higher stall .................... What you didn't mention is your...

Mike, you're the best, thanks for the tip

Doh! yeah so the cylinder pressure looks to be about the same as if you were blowing up balloons for your daughters 4th birthday party, lol. Yes I read 6200 and that is your biggest enemy. To get pressure that low the cam would have to have about the same Ica as the stock 2bbl cam and the Scr...

IMO, and I've never raced, is that, if you are limited to a certain Static compression ratio, then to keep the Dynamic pressure up, you need to close the intake as soon as possible, working off the advertised numbers,( assuming they are in the .006/.008 tappet lift range). This means a few...

Could just be a rich low-speed circuit or junk plugging the Idle Air Bleeds, or any of the preceeding. The combination of rough idle PLUS low voltage indicated, VERY often points to a too-slow idle speed, as @Murray already said

Is that stall rpm? Is it better when cold? Is it worse with more throttle? if yes times 3, then check your firing order, and separate numbers 5 and 7 wires. If those are ok, then disconnect the Vcan and roadtest again. If still bad, check the Power-timing beginning at whatever rpm it starts ...

hell no, you already have the 340! If you had an 727 based overdrive, and 3.91s this gets you a first gear Torque multiplication of 2.45 x 3.91=9.58, and a cruiser gear of 1.00 x3.91 x.69=2.70, and 65mph=2185rpm If you had a 360; to get 65mph=2234rpm, about the same cruise-rpm, would require a...

IMO Unless you plan to race it, a BB is way overkill on the street. Especially in Darts because of the small factory rear tubs, that can only accept up to 255s. And I mean even a stout 318 can annihilate those in first gear. If you install a 440, you might as well budget for tubs, relocated...

I do not know. But I'm always willing to guess; A four inch bore, give or take a lol, makes enough room for typical valve sizes, and for them not to be shrouded. Any smaller and you soon have to give up either valve diameter, or inter-valve support, or they get to be shrouded. Long strokes...

As for the engine: Cylinder pressure is your friend. Pressure makes heat. Heat makes power. The more efficient your engine is, the less fuel it will take to make a given output AND fuel-economy is a good measure of it. > Power allows less rpm. Less rpm makes fuel-economy. >but; Very low rpm runs...

My guess is that you have Multiple problems; 1) are the secondaries stuck partly open 2) the IABs are plugged OR 3) the float level is too high

I saw a comparo on U-tube where they dyno'ed a factory rebuilt 440 with iron heads. Then within hours dyno'ed it again but with alloy heads. The difference was very small. What she mighta gained in power, she lost to the lack of increased cylinder pressure. Some books say that alloy heads suck...

I once chased that idea round and round and no matter which tooth I set it to, the result was exactly what @Bewy says. And might I add; I total and complete waste of my time. Well not quite a waste; I did learn something. And I was very young so had lots of time ..... That was about 47 years...

Also possible that the convertor bolts are hitting the rear cam plug because: A) it is not installed deep enough, or B) it is in upside down, or C) it is the wrong one for the job, or D) the cam is just banging back and forth in the block, and tapping on it.or E) none of the above, cuz it's...

In my opinion; here is the quickest and best way to do this. With the distributor working normally; 1) Set you balancer to TDC-#1-Compression. 2) Then back the balancer up to the advanced position of; 1/2 of your centrifical timing Plus your Idle-timing., 3) Then, with a Sharpie, and on the...

Where the rotor points to, matters not a bit; but at the appropriate time, it better be under a tower who's wire goes to the appropriate cylinder. We use number One cylinder (the driver's side frontmost cylinder), because the balancer is already marked for it; but we could just as easily use...

The carb responds to the pressure differentials it sees from atmospheric pressure above it, to the reduced pressure (commonly called vacuum) below it. It doesn't care about rpm. So if you have a lot of Idle-vacuum, the engine will pull hard on the Transfer Slots and Idle Discharge ports which...

exactly; at speed the fan will be in the airstream and with a clutch, as good as freewheeling.

I actually prefer this kind of graph, it reads really nice. The expanded Torque curve amplifies the difference from one rpm to another that relates better to what you are feeling on the gas-pedal. When making comparisons, you just have to be aware of which scale you should be using.

That's what I thought, old news. Who would run a 7-blade, all steel, hi-attack angle, factory fan ; without a clutch? I run that exact fan on a thermostatic-clutch; and at 3457 pounds my lil street-367 went 93 MPH in the Eighth @900ft elevation. By the math, that is 430 hp. Ima guessing, that...

Did the fan have a clutch on it?

Both valves do NOT close on overlap. Furthermore; the Exhaust is CLOSING while the Intake is OPENING. If in fact the piston is at TDC inside the cylinder, with your valves that far out, I doubt it would start. But if it did, it would take a lotta lotta throttle to keep it running. Have you...

That picture is NOT TDC-overlap, the engine would NOT run at all if it was..... Pull the plug and see where the piston is. Since the valves on the next cylinder in the line appear to be closed and probably with the Piston at TDC, my guess is that your balancer is marked wrong. or you just erred...

Multi-strikes confuse most timing lites. You probably need to get a compatible light. The bouncing around is the evidence of incompatibility. You might try reving it to a higher rpm than the switch-point, and see if the light stabilizes after the switch point. If it does not stabilize, but...

OK no you missed the point; if your engine begins to run stupid at the crossover point... maybe the box is bad. I suggest to put a timing lite on it and see what happens to the timing as the rpm goes thru there. However, seeing the plugs now, wow, they are all over the place. looks like a...

As to your Hi-fire, is that a CDI with Multi-strike? Does that switch to Single-Fire at 3000, like the MSD? lol........

How did you determine that the jets were installed backwards? You know that on that carb, the bigger ones go under the metering rods..... right?

ON THE STREET: Firstly; when you make a 90* even with just 10inches of treads, staying in your lane, the tires have to twist the cords, because the edges are traveling in different arcs; and so at different speeds from outter to inner edges. So between the two tires, there are four majorly...

I will never ever run a spool on the street again.

The PCV has to be connected to the proper port on the front of the carb, just below the butterflies; so IDK what you have been seeing. If your engine has no blow-by, then just hook up any old PCV that fits and routs easily. This is not rocket science. Your carb will need readjusting. Just make...