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When I read the title, I came prepared with a string of smartazz comments. But now that I see , I decided you don't need me to ruin your day, lol. Happy HotRodding

Just so you know I have a 1965 A904/core from a 273, with the flanged output. but not a pushbutton. However, I might have Cable-shift case.

A hole in the hood works super well.

IDK what you should do; But with your other go-fast goodies, and pistons up a lil higher than the deck, and if your cam has more that 30* of overlap, I know that I (me) would install long-tube Headers, like the Tri-Ys, into a long Transition, then a long torque-tube, into one long...

Check the cylinder pressure. anything less than 150 should be able to run 87. Slantys usually run 145 or less so, they'll run on almost anything, especially in a lightweight car. By relating it to pressure, this automatically compensates for altitude changes. If you have a tired old...

honestly on a stock slanty, in the rpm range that most slantys work in, the two barrel is just bragging rights. It was and remains, an economy measure. I ran it cuz I had it, on the stock exhaust manifold, with the stock pipe but with a straight-thru performance muffler, and you'll be happy to...

and then what are you gonna do for an exhaust system?

Open the gas cap and try again.

I've seen those working in brutal environments so there might be something about the cooling systems to be explored. I did a tune-up once where this slanty was stuffed into a tight-compartment in a combine, and the rad was totally plugged with chaff...... yet it came in running pretty good.

:popcorn:

If you got missing oil with NO visible external leaks, then it has to be going out the exhaust. If it's going out the exhaust there will be evidence in the talipipe, and in the combustion chambers, and therefore, on the plugs. The why of it is a different story. The PCV valve is just doing it's...

What you need is a 318 jammed under the hood, ....... lol. and an A833Overdrive, which has a nice Parade gear and a nice Hiway gear. I know where to find everything you need, including a 4bbl carb, that will cure all your problems. And you're only 16 hours South of me.

I just gotta say this; the top inch or so of bore is where the power is made. If you have a lo-compression design, this is more important than ever. Every .001inch of change in bore-size, is a ring-gap change of .003 and change. If your cylinders have ridges, your rings are guaranteed to be...

I see you have 4 air-leaks there; one hole drilled in each throttle blade, commonly done to introduce Bypass Air for a big-cammed engine, something around 300 degrees advertised or more. That's a lotta lotta Bypass-air, and the engine under it probably did not have any PCV, lol, cuz the...

got the PCV installed yet?

IMO; >As to your ignition system; If the points are making and breaking, as you say they are, and if the coil produces a half inch spark, like you say it does; then your primary ignition system is not your problem. >That just leaves the Secondary System; and with new plugs in, properly gapped...

What type and how many clamps are installed on the New neoprene rubber jumper at the back, from the sender to the main line? If this jumper sucks air, you will get exactly what you describe. Because this jumper is higher than the tank, it does Not leak liquid fuel. If gearclamps, you need two...

Why? If the car stays 225, the car with a Mopar 4-speed will only be slower, than it was when automatic. This is because the convertor is torque multiplier that can occasionally achieve a two to one ratio at zero mph, making 2.73 gears feel like 5.46s even if only briefly. But that ratio does...

IMO I would not suffer an engine that only had a true 90/93 psi; unless it was a stationary engine, or if I only wanted to idle it around for like a couple of miles a week, lol. To get a better idea of the condition of your engine; 1) if it has a PCV valve, I would flip it out of the valve...

My guess is that your transfer-slot is as good as closed. Increase your rpm 150 rpm then retard the timing until the rpm drops to about 600, or the timing is no less than 5*. reset your mixture screws as may be required. If that don't get it, reset you valve lash .003 looser on the intake, .006...

was that an 80s van? My brother had one of those with a 360 auto in it that ran like crap. He brought it to me, and told me about all the mechanics that had worked on it and nobody could make it any better. Well long story short, he made me a deal I couldn't refuse, Oh boy. So I went to check...

Well I shouldda said that my experience was with well-tuned, well-maintained engines, with correctly functioning parts including the chokes. I too live in Canada, in Southern Manitoba, and one of those slanty cars was a 1980 Volare fb. Of all the carburated winter cars I have owned since 1969...

My experience with slanties is that they are very difficult to flood. When mine got ornery, I just pumped the intake full of gas, floored the pedal and cranked it! It never failed to start. But when the compression goes away, they don't suck no more. Well they sorta do, but if the fuel ain't in...

Those early engines IIRC were already 8.5 Scr., and the pressure at sealevel mighta bin in the range of 125 (+/- 15) But at 5000 ft the Sealevel pressure may be down in the range of 90>120psi In other words, there may be nothing wrong with your current pressure at 5000 ft elevation. You need to...

First off; 75mph at 3000 rpm points to 3.23gears with about 24" tires. Your problem is not gears, rather it is the 4000 ft; and you can't do a darn thing about that. If you want to keep that engine, you will need to super/turbo charge it, as per posters 4 and 7 who are are right on. Else get a...

Thanks for the update and Just to mention; Popping off idle, at part-throttle, is also a sign of a lack of advance.

If the carb is calibrated for a PCV, and you install it in such a way that the PCV is not able to function, then in order for the engine to idle, the speed screw will need to be cranked quite a bit higher, for the engine to get the missing PCV air. Of course cranking in the speed-screw, will run...

And my experience with jumping chains is that it takes a lot of throttle to keep it running, not just a lot of timing. Whereas ; increasing the timing on a properly cam-timed engine will require less throttle to maintain a decent idle-speed. But if the idle speed is too high, and the screw is...

You are describing, what to me, is just a reversed polarity at the pick-up. Chrysler slanty distributors run in opposite rotation to SBMs; and the magnetic pick-ups are directional-specific. IIRC the SBMS have one Orange and one Violet wire. IDK the colors of the slanty but am thinking NOT...

That doesn't change what has been said thus far. That engine in stock trim, should be able to tic over at 450 rpm in gear/ 500in Neutral. "extra idle-timing" with a stock engine, will lead to extra idle horsepower, which shows up as an increase in idle speed. In compensation, you will most...