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When I was 17, I was in high-school, and working a buncha hours after school and on weekends, to send money home to my broke-azz parents, who were both working, and trying to feed five of us kids. Birth-Control was in it's infancy, and it was still not reliable, as attested to by the fact that...

And then you have to deal with; the suspension, ..the steering, ...the brakes, ....wheels and tires, .....a rotten fuel supply system, ......a 57 yo electrical system, .......and leaking windows. And you keep smelling this funny odor coming up from under the dash, and, simultaneously, the...

Well I came to offer my help, but looks like you're pretty well covered.

alloy heads, alloy intake, Dcr around 9.0 or better, alloy wheels, battery-in-trunk, bigger T-bars and springs, Rally shocks all 'round, and a Double-Pumper will make it all better. But; with factory tubs barely allowing 255s, on the street, you might as well put a 2bbl on it, at least until...

You only ever have to take a 383 A-body for a spin but one time, to appreciate 4.25x3.375 =383 You might need my 383 K-member, the engine brackets, and T-bars. and those oh-so cool 383 hood call outs.

FYI; My alloy-headed 367, 68 Barracuda only needs a lil over a hundred pounds moved to the back to be near 50/50 weight bias. But I am not giving up my P/S, nor my P/B I have modded my box several times to the point which, it now feels like a slightly assisted manual box, but as you know, the...

If you decide you want A/C be advised that the '73 up cars had a different firewall for the A/C cars, versus non. So when retrofitting a 73 Up system, you will need the matching firewall or a major piece of it, and the 73-up A/C heater box with it's control panel, to operate the vacuum system...

Does it take throttle, and rev ok? I had one case in which like yours the timing jumped, and I mean it was here and then there, with no transitions of in-betweeness. In my case, the engine did Not like to rev up, and the jumping strobe got worse and worse. I found the problem in the reverse...

All carbs have bowl-venting to atmosphere. they have to, else the fuel will not flow thru the jets. Sometimes the vent is just disguised a lil, and ends up in the airhorn. Here are some ideas; If you don't collect the fumes from the carb, it kindof defeats the whole thing cuz that's where most...

By "smell", I'm assuming you mean the smell that accumulates in the closed garage due to fuel-evaporation? When you run the EVAP system, to make it effective, you have to run a non-vented gas cap. Speaking of effective; the canister, IMO, should have one line for each thing you want to collect...

When all else fails Switch to the 73 up system Which has the balls in the same place but the studs point down. The matching parts are; the two arms and the center link. But before you go there, make sure your current steering arms are being stopped properly, so that she is not over-steering. And...

STOP DO NOT BEND THOSE ARMS! If you do, you will create possibly severe steering problems. Get rid of the Slanty Centerlink

Wait/what? Are you re-installing the engine without having determined the cause of the noise? What if it's deeper? like a wrist-pin? or a foreign object inside a chamber? What about the water-pump? can the vanes rub? is the shaft straight? What about a piston skirt tapping on the crank? And I'll...

If the Intermediate-shaft is as tight as you say it is, it's gonna put a torsional thrust on the cam. If/when that happens, I imagine that would cause a tapping racket..what keeps the cam from bouncing back and fourth in the tunnel?

School me please; What makes the 68s different between P/S or not?

I'd throw that piece away, braze it all up, then drill/tap a new hole.

Looks and sounds like a great combo. I once had the next bigger cam in my 360, 223/230/110 and it was and still would be my favorite cam, except it dropped lobes one morning. Like you say "crazy low-end power."

For iron heads that is close to correct, the limiting factor being detonation with iron open chamber heads. However, I recently fell on some data from David Vizard that teaches a rule of 128. He says every engine has exactly one LSA with which it will make the most power and torque; it goes like...

Lunati Voodoo Camshafts Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 276/284/110, Lift .513/.533, 234/242@.050 Good pick. High-intensity. Fairly mild in a 470 3.91 stroke x 4.37bore? >Just for perusal, I took the liberty of running your specs thru the Wallace Dynamic...

That's cuz the cam is not on the compression stroke, lol. Just turn the crank 360 degrees and then it will be ....... assuming the cam is already installed approximately correctly........ lol. and now both lifters should be on the base circle. The ground-in cam advance is just to make it easier...

I ran the 292/292/.508 FTH with 1.6 arms so .542 lift later I ran a 270/276 Hughes FTH at .538/.549 Both of these went to 7000 and beyond at 1/2 turn preload on the Hughes circliped lifters. Btw the alloy heads worked awesome at 195psi on pumpgas.

Hang on guys; 33 +9+180= 222 and the cam card says it's a 222@.050 Tappet rise. So then, while his method is obviously wrong, he was, if nothing else, meticulous....... lol. From these results, I submit that his lifter, if bleeding down, it ain't by much. So then, I would say; just repeat the...

If yur just wanting to have some fun, that cam will definitely be fun. But with the Alloy heads, you couldda pumped the Scr up a couple of points higher.

I built my 367, for street performance with fuel economy in mind. But Economy extends to the cost of fuel, so I wanted to try and run 87 gas. To whit, I thought compression would be the #1 thing. But with iron heads the pressure tops out at around 155 psi. Well I thought about that for a bit...

When talking about fuel economy, there are several kinds... 1) steady state 2) City 3) hiway 4) average As to #1; If it takes 35hp/NET to maintain 65mph in your A-body, then it will take that, no matter what engine you install or how low/ how high, you rev it. All you can do for fuel useage is...

G-TECH/Pro SS

It's pretty hard to hear detonation in a HotRod; everything else is louder. Because of that, I bought a G-tech-ProSS , which is a windshield mounted accelerometer synchronized to time. With this tricky little unit, you can do speed tests at various PowerTiming settings. When the car slows down...

put a few drops of oil into the pushrod cup of the lifter. then drop the small ended rod into the cup and pop it back out. Sometimes they make a neat popping sound as the pushrod and lifter separate, and the p-rod will tend to stick to the lifter like a weak magnate, during separation.This would...

@cuda guy are you in Canada? I have a BB 68 K and matching pan.

When I ran a thicker oil (15W40) thru my HV, it blew the oil filter off the pad (no 90* adapter). This happened during a rally-cross event. The oil hit the header and blue smoke covered the track. I took the plate off and drilled 2 more holes and enlarged them All. I secured the old style plate...