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Depends if it is a heat treated bar or just a mild steel bar. If you can bend it then it is probably just a mild steel bar. Not all bars are heat treated.

I wonder if the OP ever thought about the Chevy pickup truck suspension that NASCAR used for so many years. It is a simple trailing arm type of suspension with coil springs. It works for those guys so I'd think it would work for him.

You have something screwed up. Could be something put together wrong, a twisted bar, a torsion bar that was built wrong, who knows. You'll just need to look at everything to see where the problem is coming from.

This is the one we're working on. It has a 427 side oiler in it with dual throttle bodies.

It would be an easy part for me to make but I'm trying to slow down that stuff. If I had a car I was working on then I'd probably sit down at the brake press and hammer out a few sets. I'm helping a buddy hot rod his 63 1/2 Galaxie 500 so I've been building some custom stuff for him. We put a...

I like the Hellwig bars. I used one on the Duster project that I did for Car Craft

Not a highly stressed part since the front hanger takes a majority of the force. I never tooled up anything for the rear hanger or the shackles. Doctor Diff has some heavy duty shackles but I've never seen anyone mess with the rear hangers.

Doctor Diff carries new upper control arms. Link: Mopar Upper Control Arms A body upper arms cost a lot more than B body upper arms. Don't ask me why.

Koni only lists their shocks for E body cars. Evidently the engineers who work at Koni are too stupid to understand that E body chassis parts commonly cross over to both A body and B body cars. You do have to know your cross over charts when ordering. And the rear Koni shocks don't actually fit...

I used Koni shocks on my Duster for best performance, but it doesn't sound like that is what you need. Rock Auto probably has a decent selection of shocks at different price points so check them out.

I was lucky since I had a spare PS shaft that I had pulled out of a wrecking yard many years before. So I swapped shafts and rebuilt the steering column at the same time. I was able to buy new bearings and seals and gaskets. Turned the project into a bigger project but that is how it goes sometimes.

I put a Borgeson in my Coronet. It is much easier to drive than the manual box that was in there. It was a complicated project since I had to find a different steering shaft and I needed to fabricate brackets to hold the PS pump. But I figured it all out and it works nice. It wasn't cheap or...

Thanks. It was an interesting project. I hated that car at first then I really started to like it. It was fun to drive when I was done with it.

OP has a 1973 so the odds are good that he can find original lowers with the sway bar tab on them. I didn't have too much trouble finding a set when I built my Duster. I had the fab capability of making my own, but I found a set on Craigslist for $75 so I grabbed them.

Hellwig is the best place to buy a bar for that car. They make really nice stuff.

Hey KD, nice to see you in this neighborhood. Haven't seen you in a bit.

The Morrison setup looks cool. I like the Vette uprights. Lots of brake choices and the geometry should be good with those. I also like the modern approach to wheel bearings. Stick all the wear stuff in a disposable package. My only issue with the Morrison setup is that I don't see a market for...

No, we didn't care about the theory. We just lowered the car until we ran out of room and that was that. Suspension travel was the biggest issue on the car. What we needed was a dropped front spindle but nobody made a good one. There was a piece of junk on the market back then, but after we...

When I was helping Tim with his red Valiant we looked at all of the coil over kits on the market. That was a few years ago so things have changed a bit. But back then we came to the conclusion that the only benefit was the better steering. The FMJ knuckle was a good height, was very sturdy and...

Yeah the USCT core support allowed me to put a 26 inch radiator in the Duster and use a factory shroud and factory 7 blade clutch fan. I punched the big holes in my core support to reduce weight and to provide air flow for the battery as well as a place for wires to run.

I used a lot of their parts when building my Duster. Nothing fits perfectly out of the box so there is a lot of time fitting parts and then you need to be careful with the stitch welding. But if you work at it a bit it all comes out really nice.

Yeah the KYB shocks don't work with stiffer torsion bars. They have some sort of valving issue that makes them horrible with stiff torsion bars. With big torsion bars you need a really good shock such as Koni, Bilstein or Hotchkis. I run Koni shocks in all of my cars but Firm Feel likes Bilstein...

Uh well you're so far from where you want to go it is tough to give you a final answer. My suggestion is to slowly work your way towards the goal. Probably best to put a big front sway bar on there and good tires if you can. A high quality tire that is a decent size will make a really big...

You have to be smarter than Koni and then you can find them. Koni thinks their shocks only fit E body cars since they don't understand that Mopar cars from 62 to 72 share a lot of parts including shocks.

Koni shocks are available from Summit. I have Koni shocks on my Duster. Just bought a set last month for a RoadRunner project.

You need to figure out what that kit is designed for and then see if those parts will work with the rear end you have. There are different housing ends that can be used and there are different axle stand off dimensions that are used. You can't just buy random parts and expect them to work...

Good luck. You're in for a lot of work but at least you'll learn something and maybe get some tools in the process. If you tackle the job yourself you'll need to buy a bunch of tools that you might never use again. If you take it to someone else then they'll charge you some money to narrow it...

Double shear is a much better design than having the shock stuck on a stud. Your Fox shocks would probably work better double shear since the mount will be stiffer.

I make my own shock plates and use a double shear lower shock mount. The double shear mount can be placed wherever it needs to go to provide you with the proper shock length. I might have something out in the shop that would work for you.

I don't have any of those problems with my Duster. I installed big brakes, big torsion bars, big anti-sway bar and Koni shocks when I installed the big block. It drives just fine and stops great.