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Dan, If you can find a TQ.......just run it. I could never work out why a 440 with a TQ [ #6410 ] had .125" sec jets but a #6454 used on a 360 had .143"sec jets. Jet size is NOT related to engine size. If you use a TQ on a 318, you may have to change jet sizes &/or met rods. What you will...

QJ is a spreadbore like the TQ. Same bolt pattern. You need to check fitment to the intake to make sure all the passages in the carb base are covered & that linkages do not foul etc....

650 AVS2 or TQ.

Perfect. I would re-use them.

Agree that cam will be a dog in a 318, so I hope you like dogs...... A much more streetable cam would be the Isky 270 Mega

If the gaskets are the thin shim steel type, the 'Marine' gaskets might be s/stainless steel to reduce corrosion. I know Mancini used to sell s/s gaskets for the BB because I bought some.

If your engine likes 20* initial, leave it there. It is telling you something. Low comp engines need more timing, all else being equal. You have two options: reduce the total. Taking 2-4* may cure the detonation...& not hurt the top end. Other option is slow the centri adv curve.

The factory Pontiac dampener on the V8 engine with a factory crank is a slide on fit. Period. Some after market cranks are slightly oversize on the crank snout such that the D no longer slides on. Same deal on aftermarket Ds, often will not slide on. I have lost count of how many Ds I have had...

No, this isn't a Pontiac, but it works exactly the same: conrods, crank, pistons, timing chain etc, etc. If you do the bolt up tight enough, the dampener won't move [ it is not a balancer, it is a harmonic dampener that has been balanced ]. There has never been any problems such as broken...

It will be ok, but you need more tq on the bolt. Millions of Pontiac engines had dampeners that slid in place by hand...............& didn't fail. They used a 5/8" bolt that was torqued to 160. Nothing special about the bolt except it was grade 8. From memory, Chrys used a 3/4" bolt, so...

You do not need to pull the c/valve apart. Just find a spacer [ an old bolt cut to size or whatever ] to put under the p'rod seat.

And.....

22* at idle is about half of what you would need with that cam. T/blades are open too far at idle; which is why backing out the mixture screws richens the cruise. You can use an adj vac adv unit to give another 18-20* at idle [ connect to man vacuum]. A 440 I tuned recently idles at 42* with...

The first thing you need to do is see if the pop comes from the intake or the exhaust; because the causes/remedies are a whole lot different for each.....

What is the idle timing? Depending on what the cruise rpm is, you might be cruising on the T/slot.....or the main system. Am I reading this right: best idle is 1/4 turn out from seated? That suggests too much T/slot is exposed at idle.

Good job. I like to see creative builds.

Post #5 & 6

If you can find the 'right' chemical solution, it might be salvageable. Solution would need to remove the alum corrosion, but not affect steel & brass parts.

Any 8 mm or larger spiral wound plug wires will be fine. Do not pay extra for 'extra low resistance'. Tests done years ago with wires of varying resistance found that the wire that gave the highest HP did NOT have the lowest resistance [ only a few hp between the best & the worst ]. That is...

Do the test again as in post #1....with the vac adv disconnected & plugged.

My guess is that the VA unit is not deploying fully [ ie. the plunger is not pulling all the way in { see-sawing } ] such that the amount of vacuum is varying slightly. If the VA unit is adjustable, turn the screw fully CW.

The risk with using minimal pre-load, close to zero, is: - noisy valve train - lifter pump up....which can punch out the lifter circlip......& do further damage.

That is a lot of coolant, if it is exiting the spark plug hole. Remove the head & the problem should be obvious.....

That filter is not going to vibrate/go anywhere; it is being compressed/held in place by the centre nut.

Denso are Japanese. Pulstar are an aftermarket plug, made in the USA I believe. When I tried Pulstar plugs in my GTO, it idled noticeably smoother. After about 6m of use, one of the Pulstar plugs failed, went back to NGK Iridium.

No sense of humour???

NGK 5 heat range is equivalent to a 12 heat range in Champion. I saw a pic about a week ago of a Champion plug where the centre electrode was pushed back inside the insulator......

Yup, what post #25 said. You tap the retainer to loosen the keepers before you insert the screwdriver.....

Best boat anchor in all of Florida!!

Chadderbox, Maybe I missed it. Are you using a MSD 6* box? If so, I do not believe low voltage would be the cause of the problem. The MSD instructions clearly state that it will deliver full voltage with a 9-18 supply voltage & will supply voltage with as low as 5 volts. If...