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The RS type stats have a notch in the rim to let air escape. A lot of holes are put in stats that don't need to be added.....

You are worrying about nothing. Do you think the factory went to all the trouble described in some of the above posts? Capacity [ full ] is about 16 qts [ or more ]. There might be 1/2 a qt or a little more of air. A very small percentage. The coolant is in constant motion removing heat & air...

RRR, Post #32. No it wasn't that particular section you quoted, but further on they say that a DP rad requires 16X pressure to function, even more pressure for a triple pass.

Very good reasons NOT to use double/triple pass rads here: www.stewartcomponents.com

As I stated earlier in the thread, the reason alum is superior is because of the superior finning that can be used with the large tubes. There is also something about the turbulent coolant flow through the larger tubes. I will try & dig up the article & post it.

Agree with Mattax. Solder & brass are poor conductors of heat, but a necessary evil in the construction of copper radiators. The benefit of the alum is that the tubes can be made wider 1.00" or 1.25", versus 1/2" for copper. Better heat shedding fins can be used with the alum. The overall...

If you have 45+ degrees of timing at cruising speed, then timing is not your problem. When I bought an Edel Victor SBC water pump [ 20 yrs ago now ], I paid $US190 for it. I could have bought a Chinese pump for $50.... What did I get for the extra $140? Clearances! Nice, tight clearances! If...

This is not a carb-too-small-problem. You could put a single barrel carb on the engine...& tune it to run rich at cruise speed. On YT, there was a bloke who put a lawn mower carb on a 289 Ford......& it ran surprisingly well...& didn't overheat.

Alum is much weaker than steel/cast iron. The deck thickness on an iron head might be 3/8"; 5/8" on an alum head. Ports are also often bigger on alum heads, with more metal for porting. Guess where that additional metal intrudes into. Yup, the water jackets, so less water....

Most likely problem is water pump/fan turning too slowly; pump should be overdriven 10-20% by using a smaller pump pulley. See here: www.stewartcomponents.com If the cam is larger than stock, idle timing should be advanced [ NOT retarded ] & has a big influence on engine temp at idle, see below.

Do not doubt that, but many engines will overheat without a stat. Car weight, load, gearing also plays a part. You got lucky.

What temp your engine runs at will be determined by the engine.....& cooling system. Never run without a stat; it is the restriction in the system & it creates pressure [ by deliberately causing a restriction ]. This suprressses localised boiling in hot spots [ eg, near the exh ports ]. If you...

What post #13 said..... If it ain't broke, don't fix it....

I have been using a severe duty clutch for 20 yrs, zero problems.

The MOST important thing about fan clutches is the coupling speed percentage. In the Hayden info, they list: std, heavy duty, severe duty. I always use severe duty. It has the least amount of 'slippage' & so provides max air flow through the rad.

Expect it to overheat with the tiny crank pulley. P/S might be a bit ratchety at low speeds.

You crap in the rad comes from the engine. You can flush it until the end of time & still not get rid of all the debris. The way to fix the problem is to fit a filter to the top hose which catches the debris before it blocks the rad tubes. See below.

That fan is too close to the rad. Engine movement, body flex etc & the fan may contact the rad....& take it out. I would get a shorter spacer....or take the current spacer to a machine shop & have 1" removed from it.

Often with cooling problems, you have to 'sneak up' on it. That is the approach I use. If I can make 5 changes that each takes out 3*, there is 15* in reduced running temp.

If you really want to improve the cooling: - use a shroud, which will pull cooling air through all of the core, not some of it.... - use a separate trans cooler.

There is never any reason to drill a hole in a stat [ except on the rare occasions a race pump is used that has no bypass ] to let air burp. There is always a space around/in the stat that air can escape. Drill a hole if it makes you feel good....

Mounting the toy fans dire ct to the rad does nothing, probably makes it worse. Air is NOW only pulled through the core where the fans are. A large area of the rad core is not working for you. You need [a] a shroud that pulls air through all of the rad core & a large 18/19" mech fan to do the...

Get some rust converter onto that metal.....because dried out coolant causes rust.

Could be [ stuck] ....& only one way to find out

Looking at post #26, not surprised the engine runs hot. The plate that the fans are mounted on look like it has little or no gap to the rad core. There needs to be a 'free flow' of air through the rad core...& it looks like that is not happening.

On another forum a few years ago, a gent who I trust as being accurate & truthful tested fan distances in & out of the shroud. He found little difference in running temperature with the fan half out of the shroud to well within the shroud. These were clutch fans, not toy plastic fans.

Water pump should be 10-15% over driven, relative to the crank. See www.stewartcomponents.com for more info. With a lumpy cam, you need a LOOOOOOOT of timing at idle, as much as 50*, but 25-40* is more common. This keeps the engine cooler because you are making it more efficient...& not work as...

From a company that makes radiators. Use Distilled, Demineralised or Reverse Osmosis [ RO ] water.

Double pass radiator. That will be half your problem. Check out the double pass 'problem ' on stewartcomponents.com

I need a drink......[ not coolant]...