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The Chrys 9" drum adjusters are so simple in design & very few parts, yet so reliable in operation that I adapted them to use on my GTO that has 9.5" drum brakes.

What centers the drum to the hub on these models? Does the drum flange fit into a machined recess on the hub......or does it rely on the bolts for centering.

Not necessarily.

It sounds like the front drums are out of round, & gets worse as they get hotter. Take the drums to a brake shop & they can check for out of round.

Been a few years since I pulled t/bars, but aren't they stamped 'L' & 'R'?

It is an alum rad. You can have the top rad hose fitting moved to the side...& have a plate welded over the existing hole.

It is pretty simple..... If you want more power, cubic inches is the way to go.... Going from 225 to 273 is a 21% increase in cubes. You are really going to feel that..... The cost is another thing....

Should I use a cogged or plain belt to spin it......

Those type are the best. The water has no escape route, must get captured & pumped through the engine. I have been modifying 'stock' pumps for many years by adding a plate. In every case, the owner reported cooler running after the mod.

It is not going to be wrong firing order if it idles perfect [ original post ]. Nor will it be a reversed polarity pick up for the same reason....

I would be checking supply voltage to the 6AL box. Run a jumper from battery [+] terminal to the thin red wire of the 6AL. Original bal res should have been bypassed. Check air gap on the pick up. Set it to 0.010".

I am pretty sure the gear is pressed onto the shaft, pin or not. So you should be able to separate the two with a press.

That maybe so, but calculating the reqd bal resistor resistance using static numbers will give the wrong value.

A couple of comments. - post #7 & 9 have incorrect info. - measuring very low resistances [ less than a couple of ohms ] will give misleading results with a std DVM because they are not very accurate at low ohm readings. I have a special 'low ohm' DVM that is specifically designed to measure...

The factory single bal res is 0.5 ohm when used with single point dist.

Upper ball joint angle looks severe, might bind.

In this country, a 1965 A body had 9" brakes. Maybe the cuda is different...

New gas, water in the fuel? This could be many things; check the choke as suggested above. It should be firm, not flopping around, with engine up to temperature.

Sorry, cannot help.

It is not too big. Pontiac used a QJ on a 230 cu in engine.

Make sure the metal section has not rusted somewhere.

Does it have a 'big-ish' cam? That would explain the timing numbers.

RRR, You are right, a prop valve. For the OP: it is needed with disc/drum combinations because discs need about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes, so pressure to rear brakes is 'proportioned'.

Sounds like one of three things: - vapour lock - fuel boiling in carb. Use a 1/4-3/8" insulated base gasket - flooding due to excessive fuel pressure

AJ, In the above post you say, 'Do what I do'. If I did that I would have a very sore typing finger, lol....

Check the points GAP. It closes up [ no spark & intermittent ] over time because the rubbing block wears down.

If you grounded the 'hot' wire, then the gauge should read full, not 1/2 full. So sounds like a gauge or wiring problem.

Have you checked the Summit website? They have a huge number of sizes in small increments.

Secondaries not opening. Unlikely to see that by winging the throttle because the secs are dependant on air flow; the 273 is a small engine & has less airflow than bigger engines.

Some comments. - You have the BEST carb already for drivability, an AFB style carb. - Rare to see t/shafts wear out on Carter/Edel 4bbl carbs because of the large amount of surface area the shaft has in the alum body. All the Chrysler cars I have worked on had the throttle return spring...