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I made my own studs and used red Loctite to hold them in place. I cut the studs to short so I used blue Loctite on the nuts. If I had measured correctly, I could have used a lock washer.

The package that Rick Ehrenberg used to sell on eBay had those special clamps that don't damage the hose.

I have this same problem on my Duster. Only one belt running the compressor. It does squeel when you rev er' up. I'll be looking to clean this mess up before the end of the winter. Thanks for the pics and knowledge. Here's mine.

I found this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/304116611145?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kPPcbxlDSP-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=MJumrQcSSxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I am going to replace my 4 blade solid fan with a viscous fan. Since the MP performance kit is no longer available, I'm gonna try to do it myself. I know I can use the Derale fan clutch, but I need to find the correct 5 blade fan? I will also be buying a correct fan shroud. This is going on a 70...

Yeah, I didn't think about different tanks might be plumbed differently than mine. The long tube inside vents to the outside, the short tube stays covered in coolant and sucks back into the radiator.

I think you have this backwards. The short pipe is the inlet to the tank and the tall one allows the container to vent if it fills up. At least that's how we hooked mine up.

I'm chasing the same problem on my 67. I have the same scoop as you. The problem as I see it is that the air pressure on the back side of the radiator to too close to the air pressure on the front side. I am adding a front spoiler (www.spoilersbyrandy.com) to try and alleviate the difference...

I have a 3 core Champion radiator with their two 12" fan kits and my 408 runs in the 200-210 range pretty regularly. I have the early version where they used the crap Chinese eBay fans. Now their kits are offered with the 12" Spal fan upgrade which is a HUGE CFM difference. I'm going to try and...

I've heard that also and it might be part of my problem. I'd like to make a pan that seals the carb to the scoop and see what happens.

I'm running a similar combo with the dual Champion fans and three core radiator. My 408 runs right at 210 degrees on HOT days. So does my brand new Chevy truck. I'm not worried about it.

You can have the inlet for the radiator relocated to the driver's side to match the pump or you can change the pump/timing cover to the later style to match the radiator.

I trust my Raytec MiniTemp infared gun. I point it at the manifold near where the sending unit screws into the manifold, same as the original poster did.

@rod7515 I'm running a very similar combo and the same exact radiator and fan set up except I don't have holes in the shroud. After we got mine on the road I noticed the temps climbing. We chased that demon until we finally put an infared temp gun on it like you did. Once I saw that my cheap...

I guess I'm missing your point? I wasn't complaining about the color? He paid $600 and it came back looking like a child had painted it with a house paint brush. I would have had to repaint it if it was going on my car. And yes, I would have painted it black.

Compared to some here I'm young. I'm 56 and my buddy is 61. Been working on cars since the 70's. We NEVER replaced radiators, they weren't available.

A friend paid $600 to have the radiator in his 57 Chevy recored locally. I told him that he could have probably bought TWO new radiators for that price. He didn't care, he wanted HIS radiator in HIS car. I think it looks like crap to be honest with the black radiator paint looking like a...

I agree with the posts above. I installed a Champion radiator and expected a few flaws and I wasn't disappointed. But you probably gave up your first born child for that radiator and I would expect damned near perfection. I would never have bolted that in with the obvious mistakes it has.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1969,dart,5.2l+318cid+v8,1435033,cooling+system Looks like Gates 20602 would be your upper and Gates 20386 would be the lower

We need to know what car/engine you're trying to fit and what side your waterpump intake is on?

X2

I have never heard this before? My Edelbrock Air Gap takes a standard thermostat and gasket.

That's where I ran mine. It reads a little high compared to my infared temp gun, but I just assumed that occurred because I just the cheaper "Auto Gage" version.

I'm not a machinist and don't have access to a pipe tap. And, yes, tapping into a cheap aluminum housing that wasn't meant to be tapped could easily crack the nipple?

Yeah, I'd be afraid of cracking the water pump too. I went with the caps. I like the so much I even put a pair over the heater core outlets.

This was going to be my suggestion. I've got a fresh 408 with a new Champion 3 row radiator and dual electric fans. Temps on a hot 95 degree day cruising were pushing 215-220 but when I stopped, nothing seemed out of the ordinary so we pushed on. Drove another 30 minutes home and was really...

Yes, I used the Gates #20602 upper and Gates #20958 for the lower. These are the hoses for the later water pump V8 car.

That's an Edelbrock intake. lol

I honestly don't know and with the clamps I used, I can't just zip it off and measure it for you. It's a stock upper radiator hose that I got off of RockAuto.com It's a Gates 20602 GATES 20602 Radiator Upper Hose | RockAuto And to you all worried about blowing out those cheap caps on the water...

I bought rubber caps from somewhere??? I capped off the water pump and screwed a plug into the intake manifold. I also put a pair on the heater core to cover up the nipples. If the one on the water pump blows I can always take one off of the heater core and be on my way.