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Since we're on the topic of Galaxies, here's my buddy Adam's car.

Mine showed up almost six weeks to the day after I ordered them.

I don't think adding an inch gives you the "high rear look"? It was the look back in the day and some of us like a modern version of it without relying on air shocks or helper spring shocks.

PM sent

I will. Here’s a shot with the stock six leaf 340 springs that are on there now. Edit: I know the springs don’t look bad, but I’m getting ready to throw almost 600 hp at it.

I received my ESPO six leaf +1 last week. Can't wait to get them installed.

I emailed them and that is what they suggested. I'll check again before I order. Didn't we have a member at onetime that was a Hellwig employee?

We're discussing Hellwig sway bars?

I'm in the same situation. Biscuit mount K member with 73-76 control arms. I asked Helwig and they recommended the #5904 for my Duster.

I just looked and it appears that even the solid bars are that grey hammer tone finish.

I used their hollow bar on my Dart because it was more of a restomod. It went on very easily and I had no complaints. It seemed like a quality product. I have a 70 Duster now with tabs on the lower control arms and will be going with their solid bar (#5904) for a more original look.

For anyone else who is curious like me. BAC MOPAR A/B/E BODY ROLLER BEARING IDLER ARM - Bergman Auto Craft

Thanks @72bluNblu I plan on swapping to a manual box and was looking at all of my options. My Dart had a FF 20:1 box on it and I was very happy with it.

ORIGINAL 16:1? Not trying to argue but what car originally came with that ratio?

From BigBlockDart Most of these boxes used bushings throughout, however, the B-body V-8 units were built for more abuse and used bearings internally instead of the bushings. So without starting a new thread, is there any advantage to using a B body manual box in an A body?

I'm installing the Dr. Diff kit on my Duster this winter. Here is the current clearance between the spring and tire. Looks to me like 5/16" I'll take another measurement when I'm done.

Yes, a half inch in each side. We did mine last weekend.

What did Dr. Diff say when you contacted him? He has parts made off shore (China) and sometimes the specs aren't exact. He quit offering the Eaton Tru Trac third members for this very reasosn.

I've had them on three different cars and this is the first time I've had trouble with them. I imagine it's like everything else, make it cheaper to increase profits and quality goes down. I'm can't justify spending $300 on a pair of shocks for a car that gets 500 miles a year.

I stand corrected. From their website Great for street/strip use. I will look into these. Thanks! CR Series Rear Shocks/pair (CR22142) – Calvert Racing, Inc.

Those along with the Competition Engineering shocks are race shocks and aren't meant for street use. I'd hate to ruin an expensive shock on the pot holes we have around here.

It sounds like it comes down to how much do you want to spend? I usually recommend the Monroe Gas-matic shocks for a street driven vehicle, but after my experience above I'm going to explore other options. The KYBs are the next affordable shock but have a reputation for being harsh over bumps...

I had a few rattles in the rear that I was searching for. I believe one of them was the shock?

I just went out in the garage to further inspect it and the weld is broken at the top. I'll start looking for a replacement. Thanks!

Following. I was working on my Duster today and found my Monroe shock had a busted weld at the top. No complaints on the way they drove or the ride, but I like you am going to a more performance oriented shock. Mostly street driven but some strip use. I'm sure we'll get some good advice here.

I was working on my Duster today and I noticed that the left rear shock looks funny. I've never ran across anything like this before? The upper tube is scraping the paint off of the lower tube. It doesn't look broken but there is something fishy going on there.

I recently found a welder (family friend) who is going to do my torque boxes at my house. I want to do sub frame connectors also, but we'll probably make our own instead of USCT's because I don't want to remove my whole interior. I'll be following along to see how your installation goes. Good luck!

I'll be doing the same this winter. I have the box and plan on purchasing the adapter. Following along for alternative ideas.

I emailed Laura for a quote a few months back. She said there was a five week back log. No hint of any trouble.

I used the 55906 on my Dart. It is TUBULAR not solid as posted above.